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A nice long shelf above the two.. & Im sorted for now. PeterW much appreciated/ great cheap find & able to do a super fast job. Ideal. Zoot.

We’re dropping 2g next year, just won’t be available from us.

Hello jayc89 I agree with George, quoted below. Resin anchor fixings, in fact any fixing has often has quite a lot less capacity than you think. You look at the fixing and think.. that looks sturdy..but it's the things round about that generally cause the issues. Some of these are: 1/ What you are fixing into. Concrete, natural stone, modern solid brick, modern bricks with holes in them, old say London brick clay brick.. a long list. The variation in load bearing capacity is enormous so please be careful. 2/ What you are fixing to the wall. Take a timber wall plate / bearer / ledger piece. The joists are connected via hanger to the timber, the load in the timber plate has to be transferred into the fixing. The timber starts to crush locally.. as you have a small bearing surface between the timber and the fixing. 3/ How much stand off do you have. You photo shows packers behind the wall plate. The actual behavoiur is very complex so will not explain in detail but touching on a few key points. The fixing deflects (bends) and this causes over stress at the fixing / timber interface. As the fixing bends it causes higher stresses where it enters the masonry as the fixing starts to act more "like a lever" rather than just acting in shear. One consequence of this is that the fixing develops additional tension and this causes other issues. 4/ Often the mortar is weaker than the masonry units / size of the stones if natural stone. The distance between the fixings and mortar joints is critical. For a bit of fun here is a real world example of how you design the fixings. I have screen shotted parts of the design. Let's take a house extension to a 1930's house.. old bricks, maybe some soft mortar. The key point is that for the fixings to realise their capacity they must be fixed nearly the centre of the brick and well away from the mortar bed. You can't control the floor height and you can't be certain that the brick coursing will be level. Thus you have to make sure that luck is on your side and you do this by adding in extra fixings. It gives the builder (maybe you) a fair chance to get it fixed safely, not slip later cause cracking, squeeky floors and so on. Remember that the new timber will shrink so while it may appear "rock solid" at the install it won't be quite so when it all dries out in a year or so. Example: Floor joist span 3769mm, joist spacing 400 mm The above gives the load on each joist. 0.81 kN/m is about 80 kg/m run of joist. Each end of the joist is supported by a hanger attached to the wall plate. The dead load is the self weight of the floor. The live load is you, furniture, book cases, having a party and this equates to about 150 kg per square metre of floor This is a code requirement that BC expect to see. The above works out the maximum spacing of an M12 fixing in a typical 1930's brick with the plate hard against the brick face. Each fixing can carry a permissible shear load of ~ 157 kg. But the test data is based on a European masonry size, not an imperial size! Thus while we can adjust do other calculations we apply some conservative Engineering judgement. The result is a detail like this. The detail below is a ground floor, vented solum below with PIR insulation. You can see that in actual fact you need quite a lot of fixings to make it fly and safe for the design life of the building. If you have read this far then thank you and I hope it helps.. a bit.

Think carefully if you want either chimney. They're drafty holes in the house that let dirt in and heat out, and there's much more efficient and cleaner ways to heat a house in the 21st century

Just finished installing the TP we went with what we know Which was bugger all when we installed the Matrix at our last build five years ago I’ve used 6 cube of dry mix to sit it in and back it up It’s full of water and a dry forecast So should be ok

Done a blitz job. For £32 its great, bins especially. It is quite "my first tool kit" aged 10! But sure tidies things up. The blue pegs annoyingly coming away with the tool tho/ not wedged in well, so alot of araldite work to do. It'll do for now & over time I can plan properly a proper diy osb/ nails hanger job I think with ideas from here. ProDave an oscilloscope? Groovy. One thing I need but far out of £reach, & would only use very occasionally. Thanks chaps. On to the next job.. & its a big'un! So buckle up chaps. Gulp. Zoot.

You still need/should be doing a heat loss calc for each room so you can size the rads and the boiler correctly. With part L coming in from June, it will be a requirement anyway.

The tools made of silicon are a different class from the old plastic ones. Nice pack of sizes from SF 'non-nonsense)

Screw fix sell silicone remover, applied over existing, softens it and makes it easier to remove. they also sell curved tools for smoothing the silicone can’t remember but have a look in the tiling section. just make sure you have plenty baby wipes to clean up!

What is it you're trying to solve? High water table/poor surface water drainage or both? Protecting foundations/walls? Will it be just pedestrian traffic or in a driveway? Where will it go to? I put ours in at 700/800mm deep, that was to deal with high water table and to help get water away from foundations (900 deep)around 2 x sides of our building, basically like an interceptor moat around the house. This is then connected into the main storm water that runs down to our pond.

Base size and configuration depends on the loads being imposed. A canopy has mass (weight) to distribute and uplift or overturning moments that need to be held down. a swing gate is a cantilever and produces a rotation load onto the pillar and it’s base. So the posts need to withstand bending and the foundation must have sufficient bearing on the ground to prevent it ‘cutting through’ the earth. brick pillars need to be massive or be brick around a steel or concrete core

1x1m and 600mm deep is huge. Overkill and more than enough for the gates and you don't need steel. I'm currently using the exact same size pads (designed by a structural engineer) for a large steel frame outdoor canopy that's built on reclaimed land and less than 1km from the Atlantic so will also have huge wind uplift. If my pads are fine you're will be no problem.

I think I would just remove any untidy looking bits (around the base of the door opening only?) and replace that. Leave everything else. See if anything leaks and address that. It can be hard to remove it without scratching chromed plastic.

Please report back Bonner when they are fitted and (hopefully) doing the job. SteamyTea and markc, thank you for that - don’t want no resonances not nowhere, not no how, not never! Regards, Mike

Modern gutters require so little fall it’s not worth worrying about. Mine is perfectly flat.

Planners asked us to add one into the design of the house. We added it to the design and have not built it. As our kindly architect pointed out, there's no requirement or date in the planning approval to finish the build.....so it's going to remain unfinished in perpetuity.

Why go to that expense. Plywood and paint. Then let the first storm blow it away.

If you have DP’s at both ends then high point in the middle yes

if you are going with an ashp then you want to be really well insulated and as air tight as possible. if you achieve those objectives as well as an oversized ashp so it doesn't run at full bore, you should need very little extra heat input i.e a wood pellet burner, which would require a very dry store to house the pellets. @ProDave has a small wood burner as do others and by doing so an external air vent straight into the stove will stop the air lost with a normal chimney. we keep harping on about insulate, insulate, insulate, pay once for that or pay monthly for energy.

Plus 1 You can’t get round a BC request a simple desktop study will do the trick He just wants that bit of paper to cover his bum Our previous build was part of a farm and had a full site and contamination investigation 8 years previous and laid to lawn since Three years out of date We coughed up another 500 quid Manx he said Fine 😞

That may be all you have to say, and you can do that yourself. Ahhh, the BCO not planning. So it seems to be a routine question, and a routine answer should suffice. If you have proof to hand it would be helpful to attach it.

There is usually a reason for asking about potential contamination. For example nearby landfill, mucky factories, the history of the site or area. Very often it needs a simple answer such as it has had a house on this plot for 100 years. ie it wasn't previously a garage/gasworks/slaughterhouse/chemical works. do you know the history of the site? what is nearby?

With 30k to play with, fit radiators, forget ufh and save your money for more insulation!

A few photos of mine. Warm roof. Upstand 150mm, don't skimp on this as in the regs and also you get snow building up round about it, you also can get splashing from the rain.. funnily you can see this in the regs when they say a DPC should be 150mm above ground level. Over kerb size in the photos is 1420 wide x 2855 long. Upstand is framed in 95 x 45, 70mm PIR between and lapped with 200mm of PIR inder the EPDM covering so only 150mm is exposed at the 70mm insulation thickness. Opted not to do insulated plasterboard on top as it was closing in the aperture. Instead accepted that the upstand would be less well insulated and did compensatory U value calc and upgraded the rest of the insulation. Basically the lantern was so expensive that there was no way I was going to shut down the effective opening any more than I had to. Light is fantastic. Still need to do the roof of the main house.. soon!

It's definitely doable, but those houses are often megabucks, and you need the right architect.

Look at whole window U value, not at the headline you get triple glazing. Have seen triple glazed advertised as 1.4, because the frames are cr*p. Insist on getting the whole window U value, they will want to give you the Ug valve which is only the glazed part of it. We have some double glazed doors and the whole U value, frames and glazing is 1.1, but they are Krypton filled. Our triple glazed are 0.74 and 0.82. A normal ok/good quality double glazed window is 1.4, triple glazed less than 1.0 for the whole window U value.

To insulate the suspended floor, best practice is to use a airtight membrane to build a cradle for insulation between the joists. E.g. https://www.eco-home-essentials.co.uk/underfloor-insulation.html https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/best-practice-approach-insulating-suspended-timber-floors

Whilst keeping the design simple I’ve seen a few self builds that arnt in a great plot or a particular good design and could easily be bettered buying from one of the mass builders Lots of glass Home automation Fancy bathrooms and kitchens Will all come at a price The plot has to be the main consideration I hate the term forever home But most intend living there till there circumstances change Insulation is pricy but worth every penny Think of The size of the home you want Then make it a big bigger Like insulation it’s something that’s difficult and expensive to change afterwards Weather you building a three bed or a five Your fees and surveys will be the same Exciting times Good luck with your choices

My neighbour has just had this on his new build, I feel like the pauper next door.

Absolutely, I have seen it done the other way … down pipes at each end and low point in the middle … and looked more like a roller coaster than a gutter

Oh god why, it’s not a product that is needed, far superior products out there. let it die.

I always deliberately find examples where the council have broke their own rules . “ must confirm to SUDS “ , “ must be near to 21m distance “ , “ must provide bike storage “ etc. etc. ( it’s a long list ) . At planning I then show them these violations which they approved . I call this game “ knob the donkey “