Leaderboard

I did it thank you all and @Nickfromwales who is probably rolling his eyes with my stupidity earlier on in the thread!

Sorted. Pretty good with just that brace across the rear. Spanish winch:

I think we may have been a bit heavy handed pulling out the bed. I mean I've put on lockdown weight but I don't think I'm that heavy! We certainly haven't been jumping up and down on it. We have a good 2-3cm now spare above it which is much better. We noticed an odd water mark so it did make me wonder if it's happened before but as there is two beds they may not have used this one much. We find it's the comfier one.

@Adsibob What about wheelchair visitors?

Yes but he did a Finite Element Analysis and CAD simulation and decided the holes in the handles would create additional stress risers when 62.73kg of soil is loaded at the mid point of the barrow … so welding a massive piece of steel he had to hand was the answer….

Thanks, it is a rendering of the final plan. The carport is 5.6mx5.6m. The space the car goes into is 3.3m wide and then there is a garden store at the other side. there was no need for two spaces so we decided a big space plus a store was better. The front of the store is 1.75m from the front of the roof so you can tuck the front of a car under there if you want.

We did decide on a carport, as much as anything it is a little cheaper and also looks less bulky, making it easier to see the garden as you enter the property. The saving is not enormous, it mainly comes from the foundations. I think if you are on a corner and the side where the carport faces the road then it will need planing permission. Effectively, a corner is like having two fronts. The roof has to be designed to take windloads, we will have an SE look at ours. I will put the cabling in to connect the panels back to the house as it will be easy to add them to the roof.

I don't think tentative tiptoeing on bloodied feet will cause much to loosen. I'm referring to those lucky enough to escape, only to be haunted by a lifetime of memories of what went on. (I still wake up screaming). On a serious note.....I have frequently seen water get in and around the expansion anchor, freeze/thaw etc and go loose. Could be an issue in that side wall. Usual to put a good ring of silicone around the bolt then push whatever you're fixing onto it.

Design and build is more expensive For a client that is cash rich but time poor It’s ideal For a two story extension You would be better approaching an Architect / Technician Thrashing out your design and getting it submitted Then bring in a building contractor to get you to watertight Then bring in the individual trades If you went down the D&B route You wouldn’t have to do a thing Just sign the cheques once a month ?

It's not demount-able. Once you crimpt the Buteline you can't take them apart unlike Hep20. The other thing is Buteline claim they don't have separate inserts but they are built into their fittings so they do have them it's just they're not separate like Hep20 or JG speedfit, etc. The Hep20 inserts are very thin metal and therefore don't reduce the internal diameter much. The JG Speedfit are plastic and therefore thicker and reduce the internal diameter a bit more. Similarly the Buteline inserts which are fixed to the pipe connections are also plastic which reduce the internal diameter. I don't think it matters which system the plumber goes for. It's if you're doing it yourself the Hep20 is probably easier as you can take them apart which will need to happen at some point somewhere. If you've a hot water circulation loop you can use 15mm to basins. It's where you don't have a circulation loop and instead have something like a central manifold then having a 10mm pipe reduces the amount of water that has to run before it gets hot.

Hi mate. That's a big chunk of a house, all the best with the build.

So for a 15kW heat pump, assume about 7kW worst case continuous electrical power which at 230V is 32 Amps. So starting current 32A Soft Start inverter driven rating 7kW They are paranoid about starting current, as older direct on line heat pumps had a very high starting current which would cause a momentary dip in voltage.

For what you are doing then any technology should be ok. However, I have experienced expansion bolts/ sleeve bolts coming loose from solid concrete. This was due to repeated movement which gradually wore away the concrete at the friction point. It was an extreme case and unlikely in everyday life. The cause was schoolchildren swinging and shoving at a safety rail, so several times a day for every school day for a year, and once they saw it was moving they went for total victory. Replaced with resin anchors in the same holes, and all good. This concern therefore only applies with repeated movement and stress on the fixing, and probably not to your stairs.

Slates on next, decided to go with hooks on the slates as can be quite windy where we are

I'm going to cast a base. It'll be done with integral waterproofer and a sheet of A142 mesh I have here. Is there any poor man's technique to do a water bar detail? If I leave a groove in the slab where the dwarf wall is going? In all honesty I'll likely just leave a 6" gap, stick a membrane against the dwarf wall so it goes down past the slab and back fill with pea shingle.

If it were a utility company exercising statuatory rights of entry, it would be 28 days for installing new equipment, or 14days for maintenance of existing.

Speaking as someone who had a serious leg break in an accident 20 years ago, I was darned-lucky to live in a bungalow and have made very sure that our design enabled downstair living. Very happy to be " defeatist, pessimistic and generally avoidable "

I had my planning fee refunded. I was asked to approve an extension just prior to the decision being made and after being told what that decision would be (a "yes"). I obviously politely declined the extension request, waited for the decision, and then sent a request for the refund. Out of politeness, I told my planning officer, with whom I had good relations, that I was going to do all of this in advance.

Where do they tether their horses while working?

I take it back. The A to B piece isn't too short! On another forum someone suggested an X brace in the form of A to the bottom of D and then B to the bottom of C might be better. Some fun working those angles/cuts out!

Gaggenau do one: https://www.gaggenau.com/gb/products-list/refrigeration/vario-400-series/freezer/RF463304 AFAIK the Miele, Gaggenau, Liebherr are all the same base product. (all made by Liebherr I think?) I can see the external acess being very practical, expecially if it also crushes ice and provides water, it does impact the amount of space left in the freezer though.

I can TASTE! Beetroot with vinegar, like the best thing ever! ?

Looks like my bowel implant

Is this one of those BH posters from whom we never hear of again and wonder if they took our advice or not

That’s very good - still high round here

A typo one lol.

It's deliberate so he can listen for escapees.