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A little bit of plumbing and a new tool a Peterson sawmill

Yes but you need to make sure that starting one build doesn't trigger the CIL having to be paid on all the other plots, and you not being able to claim exception for those plots.

Just at the time we finally manage to get one of our greenhouses up, compost is taking a while to get here and fairly expensive, plus I need to save it for the raised beds as topsoil is impossible to get hold of. All's not lost, however, as I've got 4 bales of barley straw on the way early next week (hopefully), each about 5 ft long, so that will give plenty of growing space. They get started off with a daily regime of fertilizing and watering and that starts the process of breaking down, having the benefit of kicking out plenty of heat into the cold greenhouse. One the internal temperature has dropped to 38C, they can be planted up and then it's a case of the usual routine for greenhouse crops. I'll be putting tomotoes, aubergines, peppers and cucumbers into mine, maybe with some other bits and pieces. The equivalent volume of compost would cost a fair old bit, but the straw bales come in at around £5 each. Once everything is over at the end of the season, the spent bales can be used as a mulch on the raised beds (or anywhere else in the garden).

Chicken manure is good - two big scoops in a bucket of water and wait for it to dissolve then pour it over. The brick beds in one of the Chatsworth cold frames use the same method - they split the bale into 6 and lay it flat, fine later of manure then soil on top. Gets nice and warm really quickly.

I am pretty sure all the steps in "a flight" have to be the same, I wonder if BR interpret the two halves as a different "flight"? Do you have different floor to floor heights between ground and first and between first and second? If not I would be wanting to make all stairs the same.

To be fair unless you are single story It would be difficult to tell timber and grained UPVC apart Heritage where against using UPVC but agreed that they couldn’t tell the difference from 5 to 7 mtrs below I’ve done the up the ladder each year thing and didn’t fancy doing it again I used oak on the porch and Idigbo on the gates Planners where happy with this Next door used hardwood on all there sash windows and doors Also there Orangery roof Ten years on all need replacing

Having purchased a second-hand Wagner 0418 sprayer I had high hopes of cracking on with getting paint on our new plaster. However it's turned into a lot of frustration and wasted time. My first attempts at using the spray resulted in tailing. Reading the manual, which suggested cleaning the input filter and gun filter. They were clean to start with, but I never the less gave them a good soak, scrub and blow out with an air line. Tried again, same result. Tried thinner and thicker paint all to no avail. Tried different tip sizes again to no avail. Ordered some new tips....again no improvement. The unit sprays nicely for the first stroke then starts to tail again. I noticed that it was slow to come back up to pressure. It looks like the pump is just not functioning as it should, the manual says it should pump 0.9L per minute at 14 bar and 1.6L at 0 bar. It's pumping just 0.3L at 0 bar. I expect there are several forum members with airless sprayer experience, any suggestions as to what the likely fix it would be much appreciated. Thanks

Yes, Jean Pain methods https://waldenlabs.com/compost-water-heaters-from-jean-pain/

https://www.permaculture.co.uk/readers-solutions/how-make-hot-compost ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290LTRS-PLASTIC-BARRELS-DRUMS-WITH-A-LID-FOR-SHIPPING-STORAGE-CALL-US-TO-ORDER/352643375922?hash=item521b2ee332:g:PCoAAOSwBY5dzOi9

We produce a fair bit of waste from grass cuttings, hedge trimming, leaves etc. I've thought of a big insulated pit with a coil in there for some DHW. Maybe some gas take off too.....

Good article about hot composting https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/

This is the route I wanted to take but the Medite Tricoya Extreme was prohibitively expensive. I settled for Medite Exterior, which has a 15 year guarantee (instead of 50+) and as long as I keep the paintwork good it should last.

It is a slider. No thread per se on here. It's just a frame I drew up and paid to have fab'd up and galvanised by my long term fabricator. I'd do it different next time as the upturned channel is a magnet for leaves and beech nuts. Think it was around £250. Sliding gate kit came from Easy Gates another £500. Posts were freebie scrap. Rails from Barrier Components in Thurrock. Never really tallied the cost. Here's a Flickr link, only 346 photos to wade through! ? https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYQgVgE Still not finished btw!

When he is inspecting stop him on the second half landing to ask him about the spindle spacing etc so he has to stop. So long as he doesn't walk up or down the full flight at once he will never notice.

Lets have some more positive input to the thread. The bits I have finished, the architrave and skirting on the upstairs doors. All upstairs doors have their archtrave. Only the left hand door on the first picture has it's proper oak door stop (I only bought 2 lengths to try it and the merchant is now closed) The rest of the doors still have a scrappy temporary bit of door stop. Remember these are the door frames I made out of left over engineered oak floor boards. It is pleasing that the end result of frames made of floor boards, oak doors, solid oak door stops, and veneered oak architrave and skirtings all end up with pretty much the same finish and match together nicely. Only the landing side has the corner blocks. Those are purely to enable one stock length of architrave to do two sides of a door with hardly any waste. The bedroom sides of the door frames have no corner block with the architrave going down to the floor.

Inspector would have to be a Nazi to pull this up. Half landing breaks the flight imo

Hi All, Just joined to say thanks for the info you've all shared. I've succesfully installed my AX-09 now As it still wasn't clear to me how to set it in cooling mode, i tried the A4 terminal which was suggested a couple of pages back. And, i'd like to share some new info too: With 24v on the A1 and A4 terminals (And A5, for negative of course) we have cooling too, woohoo. Cheers!

BC tend to be more keen on the correct gap between spindles Our Architect has made a blunder The stair manufacturers picked it up and asked me to recheck my measure against the Architects drawing They removed a step BC didn’t seem to mind

Update to this thread. I now have the Amazon Echo Gen 3 and two supplementary speakers from Tribit. Both are Bluetooth outdoor speakers (ie very bathroom safe) and excellent value. 1 - A MaxSound Plus 24W and about £40. Good across the range for a small speaker. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tribit-MaxSound-Bluetooth-Exceptional-Waterproof/dp/B07LGKLFFW 2 - An XSound Go. 12W. About £30. Even smaller. Linear across the range. Good for treble eg Sax Jazz or Female Vocal. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Speakers-Tribit-Portable-Waterproof/dp/B078S4P3J9 I find the easiest way to use one is to keep both off, turn one on and yell "Connect my Speaker" at Alexa, even from a couple of rooms away. Next job: connect the 3 Smart TVs to Alexa. F

You could probably design the garage walls to be retaining walls and tank the outside. Something like.. Proper foundations. Double thickness wall in engineering bricks to 150mm above soil. Paint on tanking outside down and over top of foundations. Lay perforated pipe wrapped in geotextile in sand around outside for drainage. Stone free soil back fill. https://www.labc.co.uk/news/retaining-wall-basics

Bedec satin black barn paint on my gate 6 years now. 3 coats on new, reject scaffold boards. Even the 1st coat covered like magic. Then: Just now (after a wash for the photoshoot, bird sh!t really shows up on black ?): Before Bedec I was a Sadolin man. Always thought it took too long to dry. With Bedec you can get 3 coats on in a day and it's water based.

I have wooden fascias, soffits and barge boards untreated, perfect ten years on, just wrote it up http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/category/the-house/

External mitres I usually look at corner and set saw to around 46/47 deg if looks a sharp corner. A joint always better if open at back rather than front. I also glue externals with mitre bond before fixing to wall. With internals again just cut a 45 on the piece you want scoring then remove the end grain. Perfect scribe no profile tool needed

Don't know how good this picture will be, but the cladding on the right side hasn't been recoated since it (the wood) was replaced 8 years ago. Had to recoat the left (west-facing) section last year, after seven years.

I had this idea also. My doubts would be that you don't typically want compost close to your house so would you lose a lot of the heat for the pipe to travel back to the cylinder? I would be up for this if it was just me. If this was going to be done properly, prehaps in a basement with a good composting unit linking up to composting toilets and with a heat exchange ducting system. Would it be possible to heat a passive house from your own ??