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It's been a little quiet on site over the last 10 days or so which hasn't been a bad thing as I had a nasty cold last week so it gave me an added incentive to stay at home and get some more forward planning done. One of the downsides, though, is that I only today spotted an issue with the west facing upstairs gable that's only really visible from the top scaffolding lift. When I first saw it, I thought 'oh bugger, another window problem' and promptly got on the phone to the guys at Norrsken to ask what they thought of the photo I'd just sent them with a clear image of the problem. This is what I sent: And this is what it's meant to look like: Can you spot the difference? You're buildhubbers, so of course you can. In the first photo, the apex of the triangular window sitting on the French doors and side panels clearly protrudes by some distance. It's about 3cm. At this point, and as before, what I most need to know is a) is it a problem? and b) how do we fix it, if it is. And at this point, as before, Norrsken were hot to trot and the installations manager, Mark, along with his very bright and shiny new spirit level, did a swift dash up to north Dorset to come and see for himself exactly what the problem is. I should explain that this window consists of 3 elements. There are the central French doors, a glazed panel each side of the doors and then the triangular window that sits on top of all this. When fitting, the installation team set everything up with a laser to make sure it's all dead on, and they took great care to make sure everything was right. Because of this, I wasn't entirely surprised when Mark from Norrsken established quite clearly that the fault isn't with the windows, but with my MBC timber frame. Directly above the triangular window, there is a steel with an apex in it, that is then boarded over. You can see in this picture from a previous entry how these are put into place by MBC, and this is the section that has caused the problem on the west side: So, first off, is this an issue? This was my first question to Mark and, in particular, does the fact that the window frame is so proud of the wall compromise the thermal properties or insulating quality? Thankfully, he assured me not, so I'm happy to accept this. The next issue, is the physical problem of the top of the window protruding by about 3cm from the timber frame exterior wall. It's fairly standard practice to have 25mm counter batten on the exterior, to which is attached whatever outer skin is covering the building. Fortunately for me and MBC, I have planned all along to have 50mm battens on the outside so that a decent sized service cavity is created to run any exterior wires and cables through. It's possible that I could have got away with 25mm but I preferred to spend a bit more on the larger battens and make life a bit easier when installing stuff on the outside. This means that the slate cladding on the upper floor will be able to largely cover the error, but it will quite probably be tricky to get a decent finish between the window and the cladding as I had been planning to use powder coated aluminium to do this job and it won't be the easiest thing to fit with such a variation in the gap. I'll tackle that when I get to it, but any suggestions are welcome. Okay, so all in all, it's not a disaster but a pain. I am, however, annoyed because MBC didn't know that I was planning 50mm battens and, aside from anything else, it's really disappointing that having done a good job on the vast majority of the build, this error slipped through. There were enough spirit levels on site throughout the build that it shouldn't have been so difficult to run one up against this fairly fundamental section of the build, particularly as there was a whopper of a window going into this wall, to make sure that everything is true for the parts of the build that follow on after. In the meantime, a few other things have gone on at the build. A start has been made on putting in the ducting for the MVHR and shoving some of the UFH pipes and manifold towards where it will end up. The UFH manifold for the upstairs is going up into the loft section. In the original plans, the upstairs landing was vaulted, but the decision was taken early on to board this out and create a loft space that could then be used to stash away all the MVHR kit and other ancillary equipment, including the upstairs UFH manifold. There is another bit of kit going in there that is a heat pump but used to cool rather than heat air going through the MVHR system and thus provide active cooling in the summer to complement my shading from the brise soleil and exterior roller blinds on the south facing windows. Here's a photo of the MVHR ducting and UFH pipes coming up through a cut-out section in the floor and up into the loft space. The stud wall that you can see divides the landing from the en-suite for the master bedroom; it is planned to be a twin stud wall and so, once done, all the pipework and ducting will be hidden in the cavity of the twin wall. More of the same: The plenums for the MVHR will sit at the far end of the bedrooms, i.e. near the windows. The idea is that this will achieve a proper through put of fresh air through the entire room, rather than just circulating around the door and landing areas. You will see that the plenums are quite a bit lower than the central glulam beam supporting the vault. The plan here is to introduce a central flat section along the ridge, low enough to cover the ducting and the glulam and the plenum will then just pop out of the plasterboard. Whilst this means extra cellulose being required for the increased volume of the roof section, it will make detailing it and covering it in far easier for MBC when the time comes to do that, so there's a decent quid pro quo there. A major benefit of stuffing the MVHR ducting into the ceiling section that will be filled with cellulose is that the pipes up there don't need to be insulated, which would normally be the case. The ones for the ground floor are currently getting their NASA-style coats and I'll show some photos of those in the next post. This also means that it's given a reduction on the cost of all the MVHR kit as the insulation for the ducts isn't particularly cheap. Aside from the window/wonky frame drama, it's currently a time for figuring out and juggling details. My flat roof guys should be back in a couple of weeks and I really need to get the parapets and east balcony finished off as until these are done, the main house won't be watertight. I need to check with the team at County Flat Roofing, however, as I also have my balustrade to go onto the balconies. The balustrade has posts that are fixed onto the parapets by way of a square/rectangular base plate, about 10mm thick. These can go either on top of or underneath the roofing membrane, but I need to check which will give the best finish and then press the button for whoever goes first. I know that if the plates go under the membrane are too thick, it will look bumpy and not very nice but, more importantly, might not give a good seal. I shall check and report back, but I suspect that we will end up putting the plates on top of the membrane and sealing it up again afterwards. Although the balustrade hasn't been installed yet, I've been chatting to the guys at Balustrade UK, including the lovely Trevor, and they've been very understanding with my needs for flexibility on timing, so all is okay there. Moving onto brise soleils, who would have thought it would be so difficult to track down a firm to do these? Certainly neither me nor my architect. We tried a couple of local firms, including one that is on the same industrial estate as me and OH, but it was like tumbleweed blowing down mainstreet in an old cowboy film. Nada. In the end, I contacted another Birmingham firm, Vincent Timber, who mentioned them on their website. In the event, the only supply the timber for them rather than the whole thing, but they passed my enquiry onto a firm in St Albans, Contrasol Ltd, and they came back with a fully specced brise soleil for the stairwell window which is just the thing. Not cheap, mind, but not far off what I thought it would be. The metal supports will be powder coated aluminium (RAL7016, of course, the same as any other bit of metal on the building) and the fins will be red cedar that will be allowed to silver. When OH and I originally discussed this, we were hoping to get something that would retain its colour but this has proven to be tricky and we have no intention of painting anything on the brise soleil fins every 8 years or so to retain its colour. It can go grey with dignity, just like us. I was out on site today getting the trench dug for the re-routing of our electricity supply cable. Currently, it comes in via an overhead wire and a dirty great pole that's right next to the building. We've planned from the outset to have this buried and the SSE guy, Dave, will come along next week to lay the cable and, in due course, run it into the garage. It's a long old trench, mind you. It took just under 4 tons of sand to put the blinding layer down and it won't take much less than that to cover the cable once it goes in, before back filling. Still, another job to tick off the list. I need to get another couple of bits of groundworks done in the coming weeks. First off, I need to get the spec from the Highways Agency as to how they want the new driveway onto the lane to be constructed. My sunamps will live in the garage and it will be very tricky getting them in through the house as they're hefty things, so I may as well crack on and get the driveway done. The only slight hitch is that there is some scaffolding in the way right now, but I'm hoping that by the time we get around to making the new opening, I'll be able to do away with a fair bit of the scaffolding. The other groundwork task is to start digging out the pond. OH has decided on the shape and size and I used a couple of cans and left over EPS to mark out the perimeter this morning. Before anyone asks, these are the answers: no swimming, no fish, no fishing, no duck shooting. It's a wildlife pond and that's it. But it is a bloody big pond and I'd like to get it dug before we get some serious weather in as we can then start to get a feel for just how well or not our clay soil will retain water and start to plant up the margins once we have a better idea of what we're dealing with. It's hard to see the line marking, but this is the view from the top lift of the scaffold. That's all for now, the next post should hopefully have a bit more interior detail and a lot more roof action. Stay tuned.

Cheap??? I'd expect it to do the shopping and prepare the food for that lol

OK, PME = TN-C-S in this case (strictly speaking it's not exactly the same, but PME is often used to describe what's really a TN-C-S installation). No RCD on the 3 phase supply is another clue, as if there had been, and if N really is 30 VAC above PE (Protective Earth), then the RCD would certainly have tripped long before the fault condition got to the point where equipment has been damaged. Number one priority would seem to be to measure Ze, to see if there's an earth loop fault. If the N isn't sitting at the same potential as E, then it sounds as if there could be a problem with the PEN in the head (Protective Earth and Neutral) or the CPC (Circuit Protective Conductor) from there to the installation PE. Normally, the PE are N and connected together (hence the term PEN) at the head, and the incoming N conductor is also the PE conductor. There will probably be other earth paths within the installation, particularly from things like the ASHP, where the chances are that its earthed metal case will be bolted down to ground. However, the chances are that the other incidental earth paths may have quite a high impedance, so if the PEN is really just N then this could explain the 30 VAC measured.

Sounds like a great idea but wouldn't work in my house. With any doubt I would come home and find my youngest wedged in it.

Depends on the softener, but all will cause a small pressure drop, although not enough to make any significant difference if the supply pressure is high enough. All I know for sure (from personal experience) is that the twin cylinder softeners (like the Harvey, but these come with several different badges on) do not like having a slightly higher pressure on their outlet than their inlet. It disrupts the way the internal water pressure operated valves work when they change over and can cause salty water to get into the house plumbing. It happened with our system a couple of times, when I had an accumulator on the outlet side of the softener. The first time it happened I flushed all the pipework out and fitted a non-return valve on the softener outlet, but it happened again, so I shifted the accumulator over to the inlet side and it has never happened since. There's also the problem with running an unsoftened supply to the kitchen tap if you fit an accumulator after the softener. There's a recommendation that if you fit an ion exchange water softener you should run an unsoftened supply to the main potable water tap, due to concerns over excessive sodium intake. I, personally, don't 100% agree with this, as there is little evidence that the small increase in sodium intake from drinking ion exchange softened water is potentially harmful. In our case, the amount of sodium in the softened water is pretty small, and only makes up a tiny fraction of the recommended daily intake. It's also a lower than the level that's allowable in a drinking water supply. I think the key thing is really being aware that there is slightly more sodium in softened water and, if you're concerned about it, take steps to reduce your sodium intake from other food and drink to compensate. In our case, my daily sodium intake is around half the maximum recommended, so the little bit that comes from drinking softened water doesn't cause me any concern.

Yes it seems the main phrase for our build currently, is "nearly done" - As much as September seemed to be a frustratingly slow month progress wise, I am optimistic that we shall see things all come together during October allowing us to move in for November !! Having said that when I look back on the photos that I had taken, quite a bit of progress had indeed been achieved. It is easy to lose sight of such things when you are in the thick of it on a daily basis. The upstairs is now complete – in as much as we are still awaiting the sanitary ware to be fitted – but the rooms have been decorated, the bathroom and en suite, paneled and tiled. The paneling is moisture resistant MDF, which came in long panels, making it a lot easier to fit and also better than individual T&G panels. The floor tiles, laid in an OPUS design, went down on anti fracture matting. The oak staircase arrived and has also been installed. We have gone for a predominantly oak staircase. The main stair treads are redwood as they will be carpeted. We decided to go against a full oak staircase as we were concerned about the noise, safety element when coming down them and also due to the financial costs. The cupboard under the stairs is yet to be completed. Once done this will prove to be a very useful storage area. Downstairs, the cylinder and associated items are being installed together with the ASHP. The cylinder itself is a 170 litre tank which will have a recharge time of 37 minutes to 40 degrees. This will allow the UFH to be fired up and thereby ensuring the screed floor would have dried out completely, prior to any tiles being laid downstairs. The sitting room is now being plastered and will be painted in due course. The delay in getting this room finished was due to the fact that the chimney hadn’t been completed. Thankfully, it has now been done, which in turn, has allowed the WBS fitters to come and install the oak beam and register plate. The WBS won’t be fired up and formally commissioned until early Dec, due to the delays cause by the chimney not being done in time. Outside, the stone work is almost complete. The chimney end will be finished this coming week and then work can turn to the awkward gable end above the single storey roof. We are now in discussions with a landscaper, so things must be heading in the right direction. Over the coming weeks, the drainage system and treatment plant will be installed, allowing the roofer to return and fix the downpipes. So by contrast, October should be the month when it all comes together - we can look forward to the kitchen being fitted, electrics and sanitary ware being installed and the floor tiles being laid. Fingers crossed for a good month! Thanks for reading.

I've been talking with some friends of mine who are in the middle of gutting and extending their house. We were discussing insulation, and particularly underfloor insulation given that they're replacing all their downstairs flooring and installing UFH. At present, their builder is doing standard building regs structure of concrete, insulation (is 100mm rigid standard to meet current regs?) and screed with UFH on top. I was thinking about how to compare the impact that better insulation would have on costs. Jeremy's excellent heat loss calculator potentially gives some clues, but I suspect that it works better for highly insulated houses where the air temperature (one of the required user inputs isn't much above the floor temperature. For a standard building regs house, for example, I assume the floor needs to be quite a bit warmer than the intended room temperature, so there'll be more losses through the underfloor insulation. This general question comes up quite a bit, and I think it would be nice if we could come up with a spreadsheet that lets us convincingly show the energy and financial impact of different floor buildups in different houses. I'm happy to have a go at this (@JSHarris, if okay with you I may use your heat loss spreadsheet as a starting point). However, I'm unsure about how you'd go about calculating the necessary floor temperature to achieve a required heating output. I suspect that to do a proper job, you'd need a combination of Jeremy's spreadsheet to get heat load, and then work backwards to determine floor temperature. It may, however, be possible to simplify this by making some assumptions and reasonable estimates. Any thoughts on this before I have a go?

self levelling compound

@vivienz self levelling compound I think....slc. I had the opposite problem they made no allowance whatsoever for my lift and slides just sat them on top of the slab hence months of leaks. Yours should be easy to sort and you at least have the drainage in place underneath as it should be.

A couple of times I've chosen to notify an insurer of something, when I was pretty sure there wouldn't be a claim, and both times I did so in writing and made it clear (with a bold heading) that I was not making or initiating a claim, but was merely informing them so that they were aware of the incidents. I took the view that it was better to be upfront with the insurer as quickly as possible, so as not to jeopardise a possible claim if things didn't go as expected, just in case they used any delay in informing them as a reason not to honour any possible claim that might arise. On both occasions I made sure I closed things off with the insurer afterwards by writing to them saying that the matter had been resolved privately, with no claim, and requesting that they confirm that my claim history hadn't been adversely affected.

A lapse in concentration brought on by the thought of @pocster pm'ing offensive JPEGs meant I dropped the L shaped tile bottom right of the reveal: What you can't see is that this is post breakage! Thanks to a clean break & the power of mitre bond the repair is nigh on invisible. Excess glue taken off with a new Stanley blade. Fingers pointing at the two breaks: Yes, I could cut a new tile but considering the other various faux pas will I get away with it?

Difficult to make out the depth but either concrete or SLC if only say 5/6mm

Fill with concrete then cover with a wooden threshold strip.

Careful, a claim is probably in progress. I had a VERY minor car accident. Driving on a single track road, oncoming car, passing place on his side of the road, so I stopped just short of the passing place to allow him to pull in, but he didn't pull in he carried on trying to force 2 cars to pass in a single track road (remember I was starionary) and clipped wing mirrors. Mine just cracked the plastic casing, his was left hanging by the wires. He was adamant it was my fault (how?) and he was going to claim on my insurance, and proceeded to take lots of photographs. So I informed my insurance company what had happened and made it clear I was not making a claim (I glued the cracked plastic back together, it was an old car) nearly 2 years later I had a phone call to say they never received a claim from the other driver and were closing the claim down. They advised I phoned customer services as I might be due a refund. Sure enough, the 2 renewals in the intervening period had been inflated, and now the claim was closed I got £200 refunded.

PM it ? ???????

Nah, you're fine - I'll leave you boys to compare notes

Dream on sweetie!

If you were an engine you'd be over bored!

FWIW, my solar gain mitigation is going to cost just over £7.5k (ex. VAT). This is for two fairly large external motorised roller blinds and a whopper of a brise soleil running up the floor to roof window in front of the stairwell window.

Yes, although the main issue is when there is an imbalance between the phases, caused either by one phase feeding a greater load, or, perhaps more likely in this scenario, harmonic distortion causing a high neutral current in combination with a high N to PE impedance. When there is a combination of an imbalance and a high impedance in the N, the voltage on the least heavily loaded phase can approach the phase to phase voltage if things get really bad. This would, perhaps, explain why the phase feeding the house seems to have had a major over-voltage event. Checking Ze on the incomer should determine whether there is a DNO side problem and checking Zs at the consumer side, perhaps at the ASHP (as I strongly suspect that may be the heaviest load) should show whether there is a N to PE impedance problem somewhere else in the installation. On its own, having an imbalance in a 3 phase system isn't really a problem as far as the consumer is concerned, as all it does is lead to a higher neutral current in a mixed 3 phase/single phase installation. If the installation is correctly wired and has no faults then there shouldn't be a problem, as the distribution network is sized to deal with phase current imbalance and the consequent current flow in the neutral.

Can't claim to be an expert but have heard that a bad connection between Neutral and Earth on a three phase system can cause over voltage. It certainly sounds like you had an over voltage event if you have had multiple failures and smoke coming out of a sky box. I think you should also speak to your house insurance company. Perhaps the would consider paying for an investigation to reduce the chances of further claims?

Even though it is 3 phase, I will bet it has a neutral connection and used that and 1 phase for the control circuitry (so it can use the same controls as the single phase version) so if it is a floating neutral that would be as likely to go pop as your sky box.

Too true, and that's despite every one having a label on telling the installer to check the tightness and, I very strongly suspect, loose terminals being the cause of a fair few CU-related fires, hence the amendment 3 metal cases. The latter seems to be treating the symptom, not the cause, to me.

Sad as it sounds a vast number of cus / dis boards get thrown in but nobody bothers to check the manufacturers terminal within are properly tightened!

Do you actually need three phase, or is this a throwback to a time when ASHPs had to have s 3 phases supply due to high start loads? If the ASHP I’d fried, maybe it’s time to change it for an inverter based unit!?

Nothing surprises me any more, either, particularly with relatively new builds.

The important thing as are they all reading the same at one instant, or is one going up when another is going down? Nothing surprises me any more. Some electricians are simply rubbish at fault finding. They seem to be taught how to wire and installation and do a standard set of tests and nothing more. Let us know what they find, and a picture of the CU and supply head would be interesting.

Put some veg oil on the timber and let it soak in.

I suspect it is not TNC-S. Since N and E are the same cable and usually even the same terminal at the supply head, it's virtually impossible to get a difference between N and E. What usually happens with a N break in a TNC-S is the whole installation rises to near 230V but you bizarrely don't notice it or get a shock from anything as everything has risen so there is no potential difference. Last one of these I found, the DNO then spent days digging up the guys drive and a lot of the street until they found the fault. I am really disappointed the electrician who has already been has not found the fault. I suggest the next one measures Phase to neutral voltage on all phases, phase to earth voltage on all phases, and neutral to earth voltage. He also needs to measure Ze on each phase, and also do a phase to neutral loop impedance test on each phase. This is one aspect of the wiring regs I disagree with. They are fixated with measuring Ze which is the loop impedance from phase to earth. If this is a TNS or TT supply, that could still measure perfectly fine with an open circuit neutral. I think it is very important, particularly when looking for a fault, to measure phase to neutral loop impedance.

The relatively high voltage measured between N and E is a possible clue. If this was a true measurement, then it indicates a range of possible fault conditions, but the one that would concern me is if Ze, the earth loop impedance, has risen to an unacceptably high level for some reason. This should be a low value, less than 0.35 ohms if the house earth protection scheme is TN-C-S, or PME (should be if the house is only 5 years old). Do you happen to know what the earth system is? Alternatively, is the house in a very rural area, where the DNO may have been unable to provide a TN-C-S supply, so the house could be using a TT system? Clearly there seems to be an electrical installation problem somewhere, either on the consumer side or the supplier side, as everything seems to point towards an event that has caused the supply to go outside an acceptable range for some reason. Having a 3 phase supply introduces some other possible causes, as 3 phase will be 400 VAC (in harmonised terms; it's really still 415 VAC as we fudged the tolerance to comply with the EU requirement, as we did with 230 VAC single phase). As the 3 phase ASHP has failed and now trips the circuit, do you know if it's tripping the 3 phase RCD or the MCB? Your chap can check Ze quickly and see if that odd 30 VAC measured between the house N and the incomer PEN (I'm assuming this is what was checked) is real or not. I suspect that, if the 30 VAC measured is correct, then Ze can't be within limits, as if the installation is TN-C-S then with with the max allowable Ze of 0.35 ohms, 30 VAC between N and E indicates an earth fault current flowing at the time of the measurement of just under 86 A, which would be producing a host of other symptoms. I'm with @ProDave on this (I've typed most of this before he posted) but would suggest that it may well be worth getting the whole installation inspected and tested, for reassurance as much as fault finding.

My inclination is high impedance neutral, so the neutral is floating about all over the place, making one phase too high in voltage and another phase too low, depending on what loads are applied to each phase. Neutral faults are very common due to the abundant use of concentric cable. But you would have thought (hoped) the electrician would do a loop impedance test from each phase to N to confirm this. Also you would hope SSE's monitor is measuring each phase to neutral and logging it. If it is measuring phase to phase, then it would miss that fault. Get a basic multimeter and measure each phase voltage with respect to neutral. Also measure neutral voltage with respect to earth and report back. I had this once after a storm, SSE installed a mobile generator to a care home to get power back quickly and blew up half the stuff in the house because they habe neutral and a phase swapped over. When I called them out to show the problem, unbelievably the guy started the generator and waved a volt stick over each phase and said "what's the problem" I had to show him with my meter. They had a big bill for repairs, including several televisions, a computer and a new fire alarm system.

What was the weather like on the day of these events, electrical storm and lightning by any chance?

If you lay plastic sheet like dpm to the back of any timber you use for shuttering it should release easier. Generally you can peel off the plastic for a super smooth finish too.

That's another thing that sounds like Emma wotsit in Harry Potter - presumably when being lunch monitor, and declaimed whilst waving a chopstick.

When one becomes immersed in the world of storage solutions, one forgets that others may not be quite so knowledgeable interested. ?

If your wondering what it is, here is an example https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Convoy+Premio&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=insv&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6qs_s4_bdAhUKV8AKHbw6CYQQ_AUIESgB&biw=1024&bih=723#imgrc=BoDVFpti5Qus_M

300 tall pullout unit 300 tall larder cupboard 600 tall oven and microwave housing 1000 base corner unit 500 base pullout bin and recycling unit 600 base sink 600 base pull out wire drawers 600 base pan drawer 600 base pan drawer 500 base shallow depth 1000 wall unit with bifold door 4m laminate worktop 3m laminate worktop handle free kick plates etc no sink, tap or appliances soft close hinges throughout £2834 inc VAT and delivery Fixing bits were about £6.00

We have a washing machine on the second floor, bedrooms on the first and second. House is timber framed from first floor up but the floors are well spec'd. No real bother from vibration.

A bit like the Evolution chop saws! Great for sheds & stud walls but no good for fine woodworking or through housings.

I'd go for a twin set up... darks and lights. Top loader machine from USA...? Or maybe a staffer and a room under the eves or in the basement. Seriously, put the utility room on the first floor. Put the chute from the kids balcony to the paddling pool, this also can be used as a fire escape in winter. And, that site you linked to...I reckon it's not smooth on the inside and bra straps will snag leading to the need for rodents or rodding access points with many bendy bamboo poles stored in bespoke cabinets nearby...just saying

About £100 I think, try “parts.uk@carrier.UTC.com” or 08701829548.

One on Gumtree, in Hull for £350. Brand new apparently...

I have one and love it. Really makes lifting out large oven trays much easier.

I am on my second slide and hide (had one in last house) no problems whatsoever, a joy to use I would not swap back.

An alternative to reducing centres or increasing depth is to increase the chord width of the metal web joist. Our maximum span is 5.9m at 254mm depth with 400mm centres but much wider chords.

Mine is now half way through being fitted. It is brilliant. They are fully rigid and come complete with doors etc, really well packed with cardboard corners, folded so that the corners have extra protection. The carcase, drawers etc are the same colour as the doors (or you can have contrast if you wanted). All the doors have protected film on them I've got 6 base units, 3 tall units and one wall unit for just over £2,000 and laminate worktops (they do granite etc as well). Soft close doors and drawers. My fitter is well impressed with it and says it is much better than the last one (Howden's) he fitted. They are made to order in their own factory. The DIY refers to design and install, I think.