Leaderboard

@Triassic Following on from my earlier post regarding the need to use treated timber for sole plates, the official guidance documents that a surveyor would/should use and that a Building Inspector should be referring to are 1) NHBC: Sole Plates (and the timber in external wall frames) fall into use class 2 therefore they should be treated with preservative unless the timber used is heartwood only and of durability class 1 – 2 (IE certain hardwoods and imported Western Red Cedar) 2) BS 8417: The recommendation in the British Standard is that all of the following timbers should be treated with preservative: tiling battens, frame timbers in timber frame houses, wood in pitched roofs with high condensation risk, woods in flat roofs, ground floor joists, sole plates (above dpc), wood joists in upper floors built into external walls. (In BS 8417 these woods are assigned to a “higher” use class than suggested by their location in the structure, owing to the potential consequences of failure based on experience within the UK.)

One member on EB had the piles done, and then they were cut off very neatly and perfectly level and flat, and the ring beam all done very well........all 600mm too low in the plot !!! So low in fact that they nearly had to lose gravity sewers and fit a pumping station. CHECK, CHECK, and CHECK AGAIN. Know your levels before your guy gets there, know your ridge and finished slab height, and question EVERYTHING and EVERYONE. A few have fallen foul of assuming that paying someone is a guarantee of nothing going seriously wrong. Ive heard some utter horror stories where this has been the case. Having a turnkey package ( downstream of this ) gives you recourse against such failings and a means to seek remedial action, but its better to not have had them in the first place. Your still only dealing with human beings after all. Tape measures and lasers are cheap to buy / borrow / hire. For me, I'd need to know this part of the process as well as the person I'm paying to do it.

What you have there is section of contemporary industrial-style trellis, aged to a rich brown patina. Screw it to the fence and break out the clematis!

I had 3 broadband accounts on one line at one point - asked them how it was possible and got no answer ! Business team are UK based so a bit easier to deal with - I got them to agree that as it was their issue and I was helping them that anything over a 5 minute phone call was me charging them £120/hr +VAT.... soon got their attention !

I found an exact one meter error (in the placing of one marker) Its a bugger when you pay people to make mistakes for you and then have to check for yourself. But that's this self-building game. A snagging retainer works well too. So far I have (on the basis of evidence) retained £9600. And not a peep from the contractors whose work has needed remediation.

What we talking about here. LGBT or fixings. My advice is the same, take your finger off the button, or put your finger on the button (been a while since I have been told off on here)

Thanks! That's where I'm going wrong I think as I don't hold the screw at all as I have one hand on the drill handle / button and the other one holding the front of the drill to support the weight / steady it once the screw is sort of in position. I think pre drilling is the way to go as I can at least get it part way in before I let the screw go. Or I think I may try the dremel next time as I can hold that with one hand. In truth I've only very recently started to try to use a power drill / screwdriver (Feb was the first time I attempted it) and I haven't done it enough to get any sort of technique even half started. Need more practice .

Either pre-drill the hole with a drill that is 2mm smaller than the outer screw thread, or make sure that you use a fast start screw (those are the ones that have a longish point and a quarter segment ground out) and use a Glasgow screwdriver to get you started (position the screw and give it a couple of taps with a hammer, because it will just bend if you try to get it too deep; the idea is just to get the tip of that first 5+ mm, so that the screw isn't wobbling and the self cutter is biting when you do use the powered driver). Another trick is that it is easier to hold the shank of the screw in a pair of piers with one hand and the drill with the other. Don't try to hold the shank of the screw directly with your hand, especially if you are using thinnish work gloves -- as the screw will end up eating your glove fingers, and (if you aren't quick enough letting go of the drill trigger) your fleshy ones as well. ?

Nah! Look at the damp getting under that render on the steps! http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-64652524.html

So where are we now then? Selfbuild insurance arranged and in place. First delivery of materials arrived- twenty lengths of 160mm perforated twinwall, and a shiny new gate. The swing off the lane and into the drive is just a bit *too* tight so some fences will need massaging a touch. Any burnable scrub is torched. New gate is on. We're ready for the digger to be let loose next week!

Re the FIT. I have always thought the system we have is bonkers. Initially the FIT rate was way too high (not complaining I am still benefiting from it) Now it is way too low. (I AM complaining about that) I also object to having to have an MCS contractor install it to claim the FIT which we all know pushed up the price a LOT. A far better system would be no equiment subsidy, no need for a special installer, just a normal electrician who will issue an EIC as he would when wiring a new house, and a fair payment for exported power with a meter that actually mesures export and pays an actual metered rate, not far below the import rate. Reading this thread, and on the basis I am almost certainly going non FIT, I will probably just install mine and say nothing to anybody. I will be doing my damned best to use it all so not much will "escape" anyway.

I think a bottle of Mapp lasts me 12-18 months and I’ve done about 2-300 joints off the current half full can ...... how much heat are you putting into those joints ..??!!

A person could take exception to that remark. We had a system fitted in 2011, the main motivation was my long term interest in PV and other forms of semi-self sufficiency in energy. A FIT supported system was the only economically feasible way of doing it at the time - the subsequent collapse in PV system prices was unforeseen. The economics aren't actually that good. The FIT will have paid the capital cost of this system in another 2 years, so 9 years from installation. The loss of interest etc will take another year or so to recover. After that it should be providing an income for another 15 years, but it's a very long term investment and we probably won't be getting the income. Actually, I don't disagree with your comment. All the renewable incentive schemes have been ill conceived and badly implemented; FITs should have been reduced much sooner and phased out completely by now; the RHI was a nonsense from the start.

That photo was from an utter shitfest of a gshp installation. Makes my heating ‘installation’ seem almost normal! https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=207&t=1095847

You plumbers always like old pipes, dirty bugger.

Typos amended. As the fitting is a bit blackened, the Frys ( flux ) will get into where you cant with the steel wool and clean things up. Apply Telux to the coil of solder prior to using it to solder the joint, so your feeding solder and fresh flux in AS your soldering, just like how multicore ready fluxed soldering is done on wires / PCB's etc. Your joints are getting bone dry and too hot, so the surface of the copper is getting grotty and the solder is saying Ta-Ta. Less heat, more flux, and stop cleaning with whatever solvent your using as that may be feckin things up too. Steel wool, Telux flux, lead free solder ( leaded is dirty and imports a lot of grot into the joint with it ) and turn the heat down a bit. You need to back the heat away from the joint when the flux fizzes and evaporates, and at that exact moment you should be reintroducing flux with the solder. At the very least, every plumber ( good ) that I know dips the end of the solder into the flux before using it to make the joint off. The reason I say easily accessible fittings is so you dont try doing this on one of the most difficult fittings to get to. Practice first on the horizontal sockets where you can get to things and see better

You were too slow! Maybe you could find a better price for Dave or maybe they stopped selling so many when this happened

It may look ugly on the outside but, if it's been cleaned and fluxed, you really can't go wrong with a Yorkshire fitting. You introduce the heat, it hits the sweet spot, the flux has done its job, and the solder flows to where it's needed. Thats a given. Now, clean one [ of the already soldered ] easily accessible fittings with steel wool. Flux it on the outside with the Frys. Apply Telux to the first 3" of your coil of solder. Heat the joint ( gently and slowly ) until the Frys starts to fizz and evaporate. At that point pull the flame away until just the tip of the flame is keeping the joint hot. Apply the solder at the top of the joint and let it run to the bottom. If it drips off so be it, but then quickly jump to the other side and apply the solder the same there. Drop the solder, literally, remove the heat altogether, and get the Telux brushed onto the joint to clean and brighten it back up. A quick glance back with the heat and you'll see the solder just 'flow' and thin out. Flick the snob off at the bottom of the joint and leave it alone to cool. If that doesn't work, sell the house.

By way of ways forward what we did was build a simple block structure at the front of the plot, by the road, and we got all the services diverted to there and then we have full control of ducting to the main house and the garden room. We have all four connections there in their own boxes.

Gorgeous! Another milestone passed - really pleased for you both.

Nice looking property and in a lovely setting.

@Moira Niedzwiecka what a fantastic and modest house you have got there, if I could have done things diffrent then it would have been to build something like this rather than head down the renovation route.... but hay ho one always lives and learns and thank god for buildhub. (Though I wish i had found its predecessor 6 years ago..... ) looking forward to seeing the inside come together.

That is a beautiful house! Well done for all the hard work on it. And the area looks stunning too, very lucky people! ?

You're in? Looks superb, and you must be very pleased. I'll post it so that nobody else has to, now that you are "In Da House".

I got the lights from here - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/top-rated-products/342455.html?spm=2114.12010615.0.0.6d673d16SBgstF&tracelog=topselling_tab They stopped advertising them not long after I bought them, but they might be able to supply them if asked. They were a fraction of the price of the real lights. The big ones are more expensive as they have to be airfreighted. I have bought lights from 6 different companies on Aliexpress. Every single one has been no trouble at all and exactly as described/. One light was missing a piece and they put it straight in the post no arguing about it. Considering the prices it really does make you wonder how much mark up there is on items by the time they have made their way through the supply chain. It is hard to say that they are Chinese knock offs as most items of this kind will have been made in China anyway. I cannot find anyone currently advertising larger than a 700mm light in the same style. I have 2 of the 1000mm diameter ones. Here are some of the current ones on sale https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-Modern-Fireworks-Pendant-Lamps-Ball-Stars-Hanging-Pendant-Lights-Fixture-Nordic-Hotel-Shopping-Mall-Home/32816818288.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.4.2055421dADg2yt&scm=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&scm_id=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&scm-url=1007.13338.98644.000000000000000&pvid=8615d8be-51a5-4a19-8dbf-0de78796e7a7&_t=pvid:8615d8be-51a5-4a19-8dbf-0de78796e7a7,scm-url:1007.13338.98644.000000000000000 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Modern-Creative-Chandelier-Dimmable-LED-Fireworks-Pendant-Lamps-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Lights-For-Bar-Restaurant-Lamparas/32816920317.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000015.5.7bea54e1fH8gQC&s=p I find it often easier to find something on Aliexpress to find something similar then look at the list of other suppliers and other products form the seller at the bottom of the page. It is not always obvious what name the product has been given. Another thing that you can do is an image search on Google.

Having spent a couple of hours reviewing the excellent CDM2015 mega thread and the synopsis by @recoveringacademicpinned at the top of this forum topic, I want to test my knowledge of CDM2015 as it pertains to my self build scenario. I will attempt to demonstrate my interpretation of the regulations through an imaginary conversation with an H&S inspector who has just arrived for a surprise site visit. Preamble: Let's assume the following build history. (1) Simple brick and block 2-story house 3 bed house on a level site. (2) The walls are now 9ft high and scaffolding is up. (3) I have done 85% of the work solo. (4) On the day of the site visit I am the only person on site. The H&S Official (HSO) arrives. HSO: Hello can I speak to the site manager? ME: There is no site manager appointed, can I help I am the owner of the plot. HSO: I really need to speak to your main builder or project manager. I am conducting an inspection of this site under H&S regulations. ME: There is no main contractor or project manager, I am doing everything well virtually everything. HSO: This does not sound plausible, anyhow we have been advised there has been a failure to notify this build to my office. ME: I consulted your regulations at the start of the build and concluded notification could not be submitted because I am a domestic client and there was no person functioning in a CDM role qualified to submit. ME: I had intended to make an enquiry with your department how to submit as my situation seems to fall through legislative gaps. HSO: I do not find your answers acceptable I need to speak to the appointed principal designer with regard to CDM 2015 compliance. ME: I read through the CDM 2015 regs before the build commenced and concluded the regulations prevented me from appointing a principal designer. HSO: Do you expect me to believe the house designed itself! ME: No. I designed the house using public domain references and guidance however I do not conduct business as an architect or structural engineer and so your regulations deem that I am not a suitable person to appoint either myself or another as the principal designer. I am just a computer programmer. HSO: How did you get building control plan approval? ME: I must be a clever computer programmer, I also paid a semi retired builder to review my final plans but his role was brief and tangential, it did not involve creative input. HSO: You are telling me this build has progressed without a main contractor, principal designer, architect or any appointed overseer of CDM 2015 compliance. ME: Yes. I am equally surprised that your regulations resulted in such an outcome, I was looking forward to undertaking the role of principal designer with its associated CDM compliance function on this site but your laws prevented that. To be continued... Would I be heading for jail?

Sadly not its a decent spec but it includes a lot of wasted money on poor workmanship and correcting errors that really should have been picked up at the time ...and really I shouldnt have had to pay for but teflon builders all paid in full. No one in the building industry seems to take responsibility for their mistakes. I am foolish and was trusting, now I trust no-one. It has been an expensive lesson to learn.

Almost got me. But "Does not post to Scottish Highlands". Aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhh Any reason not to buy this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Altecnic-ERES-12-Litre-Heating-Expansion-Vessel-Sealed-System-Kit-EasiFit/221958453674?hash=item33adc139aa:g:OhYAAOSwwmlZiA0K 12L for only a couple of £ more and will post it here. Anything wrong with being bigger than needed?

Oh bother! I checked with the VOA. They replied:- "Dear Andrew Thank you for your email, however I am afraid the Valuation Office Agency can only deal with appeals under the regulations stated on the below page and which have been made in the official manner via an appeal form. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy-how-to-make-an-appeal However, please note that the VOA cannot get involved with the Collecting Authority’s (London Borough of Bromley)(sic) decision to grant self-build exemption. This issue is between yourselves and the Collecting Authority. " This list doesn't include granting self build exemption Appeals dealt with by the Valuation Office Agency You can appeal against a CIL charge to the Valuation Office Agency (VOA) if: the collecting authority’s calculation of the chargeable amount (regulation 114 appeal) the collecting authority’s apportionment of a CIL charge between different landowners in ‘default’ cases (regulation 115 appeal) the collecting authority’s determination of the value of the interest in land in respect of which charitable relief was claimed (regulation 116 appeal) the collecting authority’s decision not to grant exemption for a residential annex because the annex is not wholly within the curtilage of the main dwelling (regulation 116A appeal) the collecting authority’s calculation of the amount of the exemption for self-build housing (regulation 116B appeal)

+1 to what @Nickfromwales just said. I was involved with a large commercial building where the 'professional' main contractor set the ring beam too high which meant it interfered with the planned gravity foul drainage runs from a lot of showers located in the ground floor slab next to the ring beam. They had to pay for special low profile trap connectors to be made to get around the problem.