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I would get the phone line installed using BT then switch to whoever you choose afterwards when it's working. In theory all ISP should have the same relationship with Openreach that BT do but I'm not convinced.

You also need to consider things like comfort. A good 3G window won't produce a downdraught, 2G likely will. The additional air movement creates a slight draught which compromises comfort. Plus there's the radiative element - standing next to them. A better quality window means you can use more of your house. I would read the reasons Ph choose the parameters they do, and I'd always trust Ph over SAP, which is a methodology designed to support a wide range of stakeholders... not necessarily people building quality houses. Also bear in mind that some programmes incentivise worse scores, e.g. RHI.

Well, all the outside is done now except for some weird small bits the builder has not yet done for no reason I can work out - the stone above the porch window (1 layer about 6" thick) and the ground floor bathroom window sill, and the bottom of the porch doorway. They are coming back which is fine and there is no panic, but I don't quite know why they left those bits undone. Anyway, as is the way of these things, we ran over by a good few thousand - mostly because both the independent QS costings we paid for and Buildstores own costings people, omitted parts of the stonework (quite a lot of stone mullions as well as stone water tabling). I contacted Buildloan and explained we'd need more dosh. First advice was that it would be cheaper to get a loan - so, knowing we have a 999 score credit rating and more than double the equity in the house & land, we applied - and for the first time in our lives were refused! It made no sense, so we tried another - same result. Reasonable income, its affordable, whats going on? On a whim I checked with Experian and found Talkmobile (who I've not been with for about 2 years) had wrecked my credit record claiming unpaid bills! Simply not true! So I chased them - they apologised and said they'd get the incorrect information removed by Experian "in 30 days" - I offered to sue if they didn't do it immediately for the extra thousands it was going to cost me having to go the mortgage route - rates plus Buildstores £500 + fee for filling a form in. So, I check and sure enough, my credit record was restored a few days later. Next day we apply again, - and were refused again! I check and find TalkMobile have done it again ! This time adding a completely bogus claim of a late payment "within the last 2 months" - for an account which has not existed for about 2 years! So back we go, and they apologise again and within 48 hours this one is also removed from my record (I've looked online and they've done this to loads of people - to one guy for a supposed £1 debt!). But now we have several "refused" records showing, so they've absolutely stuffed us, even though they admit error and we are back to a 999 maximum credit rating. So, with heavy heart we've had to go back to the nightmare that is Buildstore/Buildloan, and yet again, they are dragging the application out for as long as they can. First time round their game was to ask for say 3 months bank statements, then once you'd sent them, wait a couple of weeks and then ask you for the previous 3 months to that - this went on with payslips, P60s going back about 6 years and on and on - but never just asking for what the Building society wanted in one go, just one document at a time, even when I called and said "look, tell me *everything* you need and I'll send it all in one go" - oh no. (we should have known really when our initial application to Buildstore sat on someones desk for a month with nothing done until I rang and asked what was happening. I then had to chase them every single step of the way to make them get on with each step otherwise they just sat on the documents until they "expired", at which point they'd want the next months document, then the next months payslip - by which time a new statement was due and so on and on and on. I had to find how to contact the Chief Exec in the end to get them to actually just submit the damn application! A job which if i could have done it myself was all doable in maybe a week maximum. To my horror, they are doing the same again - they asked for 3 months (cunningly sent them 6 months so they couldn't play the same trick) payslips and bank statements, and already they've sat on them so long they are asking for the next ones! They have to be the most stressful way of getting a mortgage by far. when I rang the Building Society they assure me they send out a sheet to Buildstore at the start and list everything they want in one go (Buildloan tried to tell me it was the Building Society asking for one thing at a time - which made no sense to me, as why would any building society or bank do it that way?) . So I've just read an email asking me for a statement they *already have* and for this months payslips (which we don't have yet of course). I've written back pointing out that this will go on indefinitely if they don't just submit the paperwork and keep waiting until the statements and payslips are a month out of date. So I've also asked for a definite date when they plan to submit and have said if they cannot give me one, and do not plan to submit it this week then it makes sense for me to send all things in future direct to the Building Society, telling the Building Society why, rather than them being sat in someones desk at Buildloan until they expire. Give me strength!

I’ve a list as long as my arm of happy custermers That are happy to show off there crisp render Some were done 20 years ago and still look good If they are vague or reluctant Move on to the next quote Your going to be looking at the render for a long time

Thanks for all the great advice & suggestions. I think the best way forward is to use a couple of coats of masonry paint as suggested and see how that goes. Thanks

Like I'd have something as naff as that in my bathroom!

And here is just the thing to complement that! ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B074P3F7JL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525987374&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=toilet+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51hSF7zH6uL&ref=plSrch

3rd pocket panelled and cheapo deck light whacked in loose. Looks SO much better in real life in the dark: Continuing the theme of making things accessible for replacement I've decided I'll drop x3 25mm galv conduits down from the loft above each light fitting. I'll stop short of the light itself. Should allow me to easily withdraw these lights and cabling at a later date.

"Not tonight Faye I've some reading to do!" https://www.gov.uk/guidance/land-registry-portal-how-to-request-official-copies

Any help? http://freeconveyancingadvice.co.uk/sale-purchase/mortgage-offer

You don't want to go above 1:40 as it will be too steeply sloped, or below 1:80 as it won't be steep enough, so aim for 1:60, but be flexible depending on obstacles etc

And I’ve got a twitchy bum because I want to lift ours 100mm.

Looks like old GPO overhead pair. Maybe there to give something to detect, or early warning to excavator drivers....

Looking good. Not sure if this is relevant to you and you may know already but... We had some doors made for an outbuilding. The panels were T&G boarded. When they were assembled the boards were fitted tight together. Some time later the wood swelled and the whole doors bowed/looked pregnant. I ended up having to run a circular saw between each plank to cut the tongues and provide room for expansion. This solved the problem at the expense of some extra "ventilation". The moral of the story is not to fully hammer the boards together but leave about 3mm at the bottom of the groove and at the shoulders like this. Use temporary spacers to get the gaps uniform...

This is the thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADSL-BROADBAND-FACEPLATE-SPLITTER-for-NTE5-Sockets/172241127361?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 That is the one for the basic flat NTE5 master socket. It replaces the plug in bottom section. If you have the alternative version of master socket with a rounded front, you need a different version. The extension phone wiring connects to the filtered "phone" wiring and the router plugs into the ADSL socket, again without a filter.

Open Reach only normally supply a standard master socket. I have just ordered a filtered front plate to fit a standard NTE5 front plate so the slave sockets for phones don't need a filter. Also having all your slave phone wiring filtered means it is less likely to impact your broadband speed in a marginal area.

I'm have to go out so in a rush.. See.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/614845/street-works-qualifications-guidance-for-operatives-and-supervisors.pdf "The registration body will then record the certificate on the street works register" Perhaps the register is online?

We have been with PlusNet for 10+ years. They aren't perfect but I've always found their customer support quite good. My main gripe (also with other ISP) is the lax security some apply to email account passwords. If your email account is hacked the bad guys can request new passwords from other companies that reset passwords by emailing you a link. See also.. From 2015.. https://www.theregister.co.uk/2015/11/25/plusnet_still_delivering_passwords_plaintext/ From 2017.. https://community.plus.net/t5/My-Account-Billing/Password-security/td-p/1419734

I went with BT, paid their standard £65 connection charge. Because they took way longer than they should to make the connection, I got most of that connection fee refunded and a substantial discount applied. I have just renewed with BT for £23.99 per month for line rental and unlimited broadband, they price matched what Plusnet were offering so saved the hassle of actually switching providers. I don't make calls with the l;andline, too expensive, my £5 per month SIM only mobile deal takes care of all the calls I need.

We have also recently changed from BT to plusnet (actually owned by BT) as BT were much more expensive and would not even match the offers it had for its new customers for us at renewal of contract. Been very pleased with the service so far.

I went with John Lewis for phone and broadband ( they use Plusnet) much cheaper than BT and much faster ( and I used to work for BT ?)

Could you say that you can’t guarantee the quality of the insulation install with so many cuts, lots of chances to have gaps and poorly fitted insulation, any gaps will effect the insulation value so really even if kingsman is better, eps beads will be better than gappy kingspan as an ex bricky I would have thought the time saved cutting all the kingspan would pay for the eps...?.?

When I needed to reconnect the phone line on my new build, I had to go with an overhead cable ( which had been disconnected by BT for free prior to the demolition of the old house). I wanted to get a line installed early, as I needed to get it routed through to my equipment rack as part of the electrical 1st Fix. I phoned around to get an idea of prices. BT were a pain to deal with and insisted on going to them for the service, as well as charging £150 approx for the installtion( from memory). I eventually went with TalkTalk, who installed the line for free and much quicker (in a week or so)than BT were promising. I only paid the line rental during then build but it came with free internet, which was useful for all my contractors. Again from memory, the new connection was installed by a contractor, who I was working for BT but it was all organised by TalkTalk. I could have gone underground but BT were quoting £1500 for connecting into a line with their excavation being only a metre or so.

Presume your neighbours house or other buildings are some distance from same boundary? My bldg regs just approved this easy to apply stuff for any wood on my ‘tight to boundary’ wall (circa 600mm) (.....wood within 1metre must be fire treated): http://www.fireproofspray.co.uk/flametect-c-wd-for-wood-clear-flame-retardant-68-p.asp

Probably not, it is the kind of 'sticky plaster' solution that an Architect will come up with. My solution would be gas for the DHW and an ASHP for the space heating as that will probably deliver at the lowest CO2 levels. DHW really is a pain as you either have to deliver on demand and possibly suffer the lower flow rates or store and suffer the thermal losses. The Sunamp does address the losses (as does a well insulated cylinder) and takes up less space.

that is the kind of information I need ?

@Nickfromwales has seen my set up and it’s pretty “homebrew” for MVHR. Vents are Toolstation - nice white metal variable flow ones that have an inner which we have fixed and then plastered in. Cost about £7 each. Plenums are made from various uPVC solvent weld parts - cost about £8 per room. Duct is standard 63mm black electrical duct. It’s nigh on the same as the expensive stuff and I used 3 rolls. So that’s £160 for duct. I have a Mitusbishi Lossnay MVHR from an auction that was brand new - this was the one rebadged by Kingspan as their own and if cost me £60 - the controller was £80..! Plenum is £20 of MDF, and I need about 4ft of 150mm duct to finish. So all in I’m at £500 inc the Vat for a full house system. It can be done, and at double that for an eBay MVHR you can make a massive difference. I’ve seen some of the DCV valves and they are very nice but surprisingly expensive for what they are - it was a 5v stepper motor, driving the vane, a PIC and a stepper chip with a CO2 and DHT11 on a stalk in the airflow to do the monitoring and it was basically adjusting up and down the flow every 15 seconds. It was also noisy as the vane only closed to 95% which caused a whistling at the terminal. From memory they were about £90 + Vat each and needed a transformer too. I’m all for leading edge stuff but I don’t want to be someone’s guinea pig for a ventilation system that if it went wrong would need me to rip parts of my house down to replace ..!

I have 5 supply points (2 living rooms and 3 bedrooms) and 4 extract points (bathroom, en-suite, utility and kitchen) I ran 2 ducts in parallel to each room vent, but I know some only used 1 duct per vent so that could cut costs a little. The radial ducting system like this is indeed very simple to install.

I applaud your effort looking at alternative options, FYI I purchased BPC MVHR for 2.6K + vat. Includes 6 extract and 7 supply. 285 sqm building. Self installation. I have spent £400 on airtight tape!!

Finally we have concrete! After cancelling Fridays pump job due to someone hitting a high voltage cable on a the Thursdays job he turned up at 7:30 this morning to set up, however he wasn’t a happy bunny as anothe4 of the pump guys had inspected the site access and had said it was fine! After a lot of struggling he managed to get into a position he could put the legs out to allow him to deploy the boom. Thee hours and 25.5m3 later and a lot of hard work for the two of us, we have an excellent insulated concrete foundation! The first load goes in. The finished job. Spot the concrete pump truck.

Go back and get the Phase I report sorted out, if they found nothing then nothing else needs to be done, end of! The report should say that and only that. Putting that it would be beneficial to carry out more work is only benifficial to them, more work, more income.

Amazing I'm going to look at the link now @Triassic The Phase I was clean. She said that it was contradictory and even though it stressed no contamination and low risk, it advised further investigations may be beneficial. I think these surveys are worded cleverly to ensure they get repeat business!

I’ve been using through coloured renders for over thirty years The guarantees arnt worth the paper the are written on You are reliant on the contractor doing a good job and rectifying any faults