Jenki

Just had a quick look at mine, south facing , 4 kW North Scotland. Today I've generated 5.2kWh already before 11 am. Since November I've generated 720kWh. Looking at a barn later this year and like the idea of adding a few vertical panels to it but would want to make that off grid with a small turbine and battery, with a view to take the ASHP & treatment plant off grid.

I've used the Screwfix ones they are excellent. Used John guest spigot reducers for the 10 mm runs. Well worth the saving.

In Scotland this would not pass building control, 0.18 is the maximum. My ICF (polysteel), needed EWI and then the standards changed in early 23 so needed 25mm PIR IWI that got me down to 0.139. We've spent the best part of 2 months in our home now, and very happy with the ICF decision. DHW and heating 220kWh for January and it's been cold and wild at times. Push for decent insulation levels, but use the heat loss calculation spreadsheet to play with the figures. It's very apparent that air tightness becomes more important once you've got a decent level of insulation..

I had the luxury of 300mm depth of insulation, so opted for 300mm EPS equivalent to 150PIR . I used some EPS 150 for the top layer and EPS70 for the layers below, staggering the sheets as I went. (this was a cost based decision) Ultimately your injecting heat into the concrete and this insulation is the only thing stopping you heating the earth, or conversely the earth cooling your slab. 150mm PIR will give you good results, but if you have space it cant hurt, other than financially, to put more insulation in there. Note: if you are doing 150mm, don't be tempted to just buy the 150 sheets, they are PITA to cut neatly and you wont be able to stagger the joints. Thinner sheets will cut accurately (but messily) on a table saw. @Mulberry View keep the faith its looking good 👍. I say Mandy and I, built our house on our own, with very little external help, but the reality is, it was Mandy, Me and Build hub. Hours spent on here reading blogs, questions and asking for clarification on bits your not sure of will save you lots of headaches down the line and then end product, IMHO will outshine many homes.

It's not happening Due to our winds a small turbine seems a good option, but only if I couple with batteries. So that's a future thing.

A103 as built with Solar PV. A105 if we added Solar Thermal

Around 11 months ago, we started from a stripped site, the treatment plant was in and running the cabins / static so drainage just required connecting up. we had to wait for the warrant to be amended (change to the certificate of deign) this held us back ma month or so until the BCO just said "get on with it, we can sort that later"- top guy!! If we had waited for the amended certificate of design we would still be building, it took him 5 months to get it to us. I've documented most of the build in blogs on here, partly to have a refence to remember the process, partly as pay back to Buildhub for the inspiration and pointers in the planning / design stage. I'm so glad I spent hours looking at and reading others blogs that we made the switch to ICF. I'm convinced there is no way I would have achieved the efficiency I have for the money spent. Budget was always tight, so some decisions have been made due to Hobson's choice, leading to triple glazed UPVC windows and composite doors. The front door, south facing GRP Composite with low threshold and a slim glass panel leaks with 40mph winds, this leaks through the gazing cassette, and the low threshold. as I know we wont use this door much, we went for a slam lock, another mistake, it blows a gale through. To be fair the company are re making, I'm just not sure if there re-making the panel or the full door, I did ask, if they were remaking the full door to change to standard handle and lock, so it can be adjusted to minimise the drafts. we will see what happens, a full door replacement will mean taking off the reveals in side so a complete PITA, but worth it for no drafts. We had the airtightness test carried out, and they used the front door for the blower door to mitigate any issues with that door. I had put caps in the MVHR. so he just cracked on, the back door is not perfect again due to the low threshold. He didn't seal the blower door to the frame, not sure what the procedure is but seemed a little frustrating. We achieved 0.88 Air permeability, which I'm very happy with, budget wise we didn't spend hundreds on airtightness tape, just designed good solutions, and the doors leak a bit . Our As built EPC came back at A103 , with a possibility of A128.. the report say A105 if we install Thermal Solar EST saving of £40 pa , and A128 with a wind turbine EST saving of £1100 pa, so pretty much the best we could hit. To finish we need to sort out some paths outside, ramp, and the rain water pond, but other than the second bedroom need decorating the house is done. Next week we will hopefully get building control around to see what he 'needs' to get a completion cert. I'm hoping for some flexibility on the ramp and pond, . We need the VAT refund to pay for this stuff. We are working our way through the invoices, but we built for less the 90K and we still need the VAT refund. I've enjoyed it all, and we both agree we have a home. Good luck to all of you with your current builds.

@Kelvin , @windaes. some other ideas on the same theme, this company are around the highlands and build a moveable one with the same principle, and DIYABLE. https://ukpolypods.co.uk/

sent you a pm

35 deg in Max Slab temp currently 19 deg. (7 hrs after heating finished) room temp 21.5 deg. (some solar gain)

Is this the drill ? It has hammer mode. Make sure you buy "quality" Masonry drill bits... and it should drill thought most materials up to 10mm no problem

We have a vertical tank, 210L and I set my tank to 43 deg. no issues with Hot water. I would want to know in your situation where the temperature probe is. Is this a Horizontal cylinder? I cant seem to find a Mitsubishi ASHP horizontal cylinder?

I cant be sure, is this (red circle) the temp probe? if so its at the top of the tank and the water below that level will not be 50 deg?

With a Samsung ASHP, my max outlet temp i.e. what's going into the slab is 35 deg. the concrete never gets that warm and if it did the house would be too warm. We have the room temp set to 19.5 and through the day we get 20 / 20.5 the slab never sees 27 deg. at the surface.

I Found this tech sheet helpful, although not cast in stone and building regulations per say, they will be accepted by Building control as proof of compliance. NHBC_TECH_SPEC.pdf I used Diagram 6, to assist with invert levels.

Who supplies your power, your e7 rate is really low

Bit harsh, 2.21 flags per hour 😂. I think the hardest part of this would be trying to look busy for 3 weeks. @DeeJunFan as @nod says get another quote.

If it's outside run the SWA to where it needs to go clipped direct with cable cleats. If your going inside then IP rated junction with glands and go through the wall (sleeved) with Twin and earth( I've assumed flat = twin and earth cable). NB Twin and earth is not suitable clipped direct outside.

For heating you may want to look at some good threads on here for Air to Air Heat pumps- they have great COP and are DIY able (🤫). Electric shower and a unvented water heater under the kitchen sink. (if layout allows this to get to the bathroom). are the cheapest options. (But not cheaper than a kettle:))

slow down...... Get the Heat loss calculations for what you want to build and when you have this info, you can ask for quotes - otherwise its just speculation and your spending thousands boring bedrock when a £4K ASHP will (or wont work), and if it won't work then IMHO you need to change the spec, because it should.....

So, this leads to the obvious question, what size is the build what are the heat loss calculations. IMHO if a GSHP can supply the required heat so can an ASHP. Drilling bedrock just sounds like ££££££££££££££££££££ and you can get a LOT OF ASHP FOR ££££££

You are correct there are a lot of settings, but I use water law and an external thermostat, and this temp has no bearing on the operation of my HP. initially my control was next to the cylinder, and always read 1.5-2 deg more than the thermostat that controls the house temp, and the HP worked as required. i.e. the system controller could say 20 deg, if my room stat was at 18 and my set point 19 the HP would be on. switching off at 19.

Mine is the current inside temp. We getting some Solar gain in the highlands today.

Us too. All good here😁

Yes. That's the stuff. I might take you up on your kind offer, I'm not sure when I'll next be down to Inverness way, I try not too😂. Last time was around 7months ago.