Jenki

This is maybe an overlook, I did not add an extract in here😥... I was looking at this earlier, do you know of any extract vent that I could tap into the duct direct off the MVHR.. otherwise I will need to but 50M of pipe for a run of 1M?

Just a very short blog to show the windy roost ( not fully finished, is a self build ever?) plant room. I'm quite chuffed I got it all to fit, and I think it's quite neat. It's full DIY and house's the UVC and combined buffer, UFH manifold, MVHR unit, inverter, consumer unit, network hub. All in 4M³. Plus storage to come. Yes, the printer doesn't fit, but it's coming to its end of life so that's all it's getting for now. Jobs to do: Ceiling Insulate MVHR ducting / box in Shelves on the left hand side Clothes Airer ( a Scottish requirement to have one)

This was the same for me in England, I was part P registered with Napit, then Stroma then back to Napit, as I only did electrical work associated with extensions or kitchens/ bathrooms I was doing, I went for the cheapest option. So I could notify electrical work, re wire a house, but if I wanted to do an EICR I had to add professional indemnity insurance. At the time my PL insurance was say £200, to add Indemnity to they wanted another £600 / £800 as it went off turnover. It just wasn't worth it. But I didn't need indemnity insurance for a rewire? Crazy.

I worked for myself for around 23 years, general building, extensions and the like, subbing in where required. And as @ProDave mentioned there are loads of bodger's so getting reliable subbies is near impossible, if they're any good, they work for themselves, or are nearing retirement and want cash. For me the end was the endless reg changes for electrical work and the associated fees for part p, then CIS requirements of posting 0 returns every month or getting fined, VAT returns, waste carrier licence blah blah blah, just an endless list of people / government with their hands out. I just wanted to earn a living, not run an organisation, but that's what you end up with. All this before you meet the customers and The "Google says you do it this way". Now my house build is nearing an end I may have to go out and earn a few quid, I know I can earn good money doing what I do, especially up this far North, but I'm not interested in starting with all the guff again. I think the black market is calling. At least Scotland don't have Part P😉.

@Finlay1992, we bought a croft up North and didn't have problems with planning. We agreed a price and applied before we completed. It took a while because the COVID excuse and working from home was in full swing. We got permission for 2 rental cabins in timber with cladding etc. and a house. Have a look at my blogs #the windy roost We went with building regulations and insulated / airtightness to good standards. It's windy and cold. Don't skimp on the spec, building control have been great. You only need to de-croft if you want to finance the build. Just a point, crofts are classed as business so you will pay more on fees to purchase in the region of 3k but you need to make sure they know the ins and outs of croft land.

I did. As well as planning. I have some experience in building, but just scoured the planning portal, picked out relevant items, copied details etc and submitted my warrant application.(Scotland) I missed a few points but this was soon resolved. In Scotland we need a certificate of design as well. This has to be outsourced, but they used my detailing and amended where structure required. I know I saved a fortune. As I only spent £350 on software and around £900 for the structural calcs and certificate of design. But beware and remember you don't know what you don't know.

to me that looks like MDPE to either Male or Female BSP. The Grey nut over the MDPE pipe, then the cone split retainer, push MDPE pipe (with pipe sleeve not shown) into the black portion. then screw tap onto the other end.

Within the regs, 6mm t&e can carry 32A install method A and 47A clipped direct. Changing to a 40A RCBO IMHO will be fine the cable will handle way more than 47A for short periods of time. So check the current draw if it's under 40A, and insulation resistance is acceptable then get it changed and worry about something else.

Winter? Temperature of incoming cold, shower is drawing more current would be my guess. Back to my original post. Get it tested incl current draw, it is drawing 35/37amps as would be expected, then swap the RCBO if he is willing to with regard to the install method.

Noooooooooo. The cartridge fuse is still pulling the same current, so the cable is / will be under the same conditions. Ideally upgrade cable, but in reality, change the RCBO to 40a and it's safer than using a cartridge fuse. (Short circuit protection) You'll more than likely have 240v+ so closer to 35 amps.

Electrician. Test the RCBO on tripping current and ramp test 0 and 180deg. Check cable for insulation resistance,measure current draw etc. plumber will check there's water then he's stumped 😂. Q What's the shower rating, cable size and RCBO rating out of curiosity ? It does sound like a thermal overload. So the answers to my question might point to the issues.

To be fair the cylinder should have been circa £1300. Some guy bought surplus stock and sold cheap. The whole problem with grant funding stuff, you end up with MCS schemes and bigger companies just see the grant as thier profit, and can tell you how lucky you will be. I could have got a free grant for 9k but I had to use MSC installer. I would guarantee I would have had to chip in more than 3k🤔

I've just DIY'ed my install. Heatpump cylinder from eBay (new) £650. Samsung Coastal 5kw heatpump £1690 ex vat Samsung controller (eBay new) £250. Pipework,valves,fittings, etc £400 G3 course £300. So £3290 I think @JohnMo got a good deal on his ASHP, I tried an alternative and it didn't work out, so ended up with time constraints and had to bite the bullet on the Samsung.

We have them fitted in the cabins and one in the static, they are quieter than a fan heater, the outdoor unit is slightly quieter than our ASHP. The ones in the cabins are Electriq? From appliances direct and is quite. no complaints from over a hundred paying customers.

A question for those of you who've built and are living in your new build. Yesterday in North Scotland, winds of 35mph, gusts to 48 and with intense rain. My question is how long before the anxiety of "how's the house coping", "what's that noise" subsides?. This is our second storm in 10days, and all seems to be going ok. I've had to replace an aerial bracket for my 4G aerial, and will test having it in the loft at some point. But other than that all good, but I have this anxiety every time I hear different noises.😬. I can hear some tile rattle when we get big guests 40mph plus, but I know they are nailed and clipped and suspect this will be some of the slim cut verge tiles. But I'm hoping this settling in feeling and anxiety is short lived. Anyone else go through this?

I built ICF (Poly Steel), in the Highlands, and wind needed thinking about from the start. We had to strap our block pallets to each other to stop them blowing away. I used scaffolding on the inside, and timber bracing as I went.

My two pence worth. If you've took the actuators off, and your not getting flow then the problems are either: 1, Pump 2, Valves closed( 2port valve not working, or isolation valves closed) 3,Air lock in the system 4, faulty blending valve You've changed the pump, I assume you've manually opened the 2 port valve.? If none of this get results then blending valve or air. So for me, I would Close the return manifold isolation valve, attach hoses to the return manifold bleed / drain, Close all flow meters, open the drain cock and fill the system, opening and closing the flow meter loop by loop ensure there is no air lock. You should also see a flow through the meter. If you don't get any significant air then the blending valve is #1 culprit.

Just an update, ASHP returned, they organised collection, and deducted the cost of carriage both ways, a compromise, but I have now received a refund😁. The company were good in handling the issue, slow, but good, I still think the advertising is misleading so buyer beware.

Mice, don't like sticky traps, quick- break back traps for me, and the chickens love fighting over them, so they don't go to waste🙈

Yes no problem.* *Assuming joists are specified correctly,and the flooring material is in good condition.

On clear days I can see those mountains all the way from Nairn to Fraserburgh, and as you say 180 Deg the Northern lights. I love living here. Looks fantastic by the way 👏

@Nick Laslett, I'm no expert, so can't comment, it's was probably 0 when I installed. And left it running overnight as it wasn't insulated very well. I was using the UFH with the immersion so wasn't worried about water in the UFH plus the house hasn't dropped below 13deg once it was wind and watertight.

Jumping on this thread as it's opportune. I've just got my Samsung Gen 6 running, I've got so much other stuff to do it's just working. My COP is rubbish. Any quick tips on settings to assist? Currently DHW is set to 43,as the showers / bath not working yet. So just hand washing and showering in the static 🥶. I've set the temp on manual external thermostat to 18.5 . 90sqm UFH on manual at the moment the house is ok, great really, as we're working on it temp could be classed as too hot. It's probably the worst time to look at settings as we've had negative temps over night for 3 or 4 days and some days hovering around 0. But the COP is 2 I will get to spend time looking at this, just not yet, so any quick setup tips would be appreciated.

you are indeed "I am absolute b*llocks."

I saw that, but did you fit the tap to the osb and then position it? or did you fit the OSB to unit then fit the tap? I've done installs where they would not let me fit the tap to the worktop, so its good to check you can fit the tap if the worktop is in place. (You may have done this, but thought it might be helpful to confirm)