Jenki

@ProDave mentioned pictures for the pcb. so had another look. its difficult to see as its mounted on part of the frame upside down. there is a large heat sink but to me only one PCB and all the wires go to this. I would have to dismantle a lot of the frame to get a better view of the PCB. /////im thinking its time to cut my loses and fight for a return and buy a more mainstream product, @dpmiller, @ProDave thanks for the info, might put a cable to it tomorrow just to see, but going forward, I'm pushing for a return.

It shouldn't be, the controller should control everything.

Here's the Manual. the PCB is difficult to photo as its upside down on the top of the unit. I took this one, but not much help. if you read the manual P12, the unit should operate controlling heat & DHW, it is not supposed to be a dumb unit. Its like the manual is for a enhanced unit possibly, but there is no mention of other models.. so if the controller does work in the way it says is will, then I assume it will give an error as there is no tank sensor, E20 Page 18 the wiring diagram on P20 seems to mirror what I have, the attached photo shows CN21 CN22 which are listed as blank, P1 &P2 wires trace to the PCB @ TH6 so possible should be a thermistor for the tank?

I was thinking this, but the controller is not dumb, it controls the temperatures, so I don't see how the two could work together. I don't want to wire / plumb it in to experiment, it should do what the manual says

Would a volumizer not help in this situation? It sounds to me like the water volume is not enough, and you are getting short cycling? - but what do I know, I can't get mine to work😥

UPDATE: So I bit the bullet on one of these units chatted the to guy who owns the company and got a good deal, £1140 Inc vat delivered to the Highlands, The unit comes with a controller, that is pre wired to the PCB, 4 wires on a detachable lead. the instructions show the connections / setup I'm planning to use. My Setup is a pre plumbed cylinder with tank and buffer. I've connected the buffer on the return to the ASHP. so ASHP - to UFH manifold - TO Buffer - back to ASHP, just using the buffer for volume. The Manual is "Chineslish" so takes a bit of reading, but in general it seems to do as required. The controller can work in DHW and heat / cool mode. and this diagram suggest all is as it should be. There is a section in the manual that explains the importance of the tank probe (A) (I assumed this would be a thermistor) and how to fit, but doesn't mention how this connects to the ASHP. Fast forward to unboxing, the unit is well made, the casing etc isn't thin and flimsy. the powder coating looks decent and is inside as well. and it looks like it should do what it should do, so this is the good bit 🥲. There is the controller and wire, some feet. and that's it. no tank sensor.. Looking at the control panel this is what I get. L,N &E in, LN&E for pump output, but this is connected to the internal pump, so safe to assume this will be energised when the unit is running. there is not any control for AUX pump or 3 way valve as per manual. I ask the questions: 1, where / what type of probe do I need, and where does this connect 2, where do I connect the controls for the Valves as shown in fig4.4 above. After a week the response back from the supplier via the manufacturer is "You don't need a tank sensor, its controlled by the input temp / output temp of the unit." I counter with, The Controller has error codes (E20) and a display for the tank temperature (o1), also how do I control the valve? a bit more back and forth and they say the unit only does 1 temperature, and you can control valves with external relays etc...? now I'm thinking there is some mis-communication and language issues here, as the unit must work?. Eventually they tell me they will get a guy to call me, I think at this point they think this is me being numb, and not knowing what I'm doing. after a further two weeks, I speak with a guy, who does not work for them, and has not fitted them, but is a ASHP fitter of some 20 years, and ultimately comes to the same conclusion as me - it should have a tank probe, and there should be some way of communicating with the unit to differentiate between DHW and heating. Unless anyone here can see what I'm missing, and how to get this unit to work, it looks like I'm going to try and send it back... so now looking for an alternative. -- need to get some heat on the static is already Baltic.🥶

@Thorfun word of warning, don't look at the XL joinery book for doors, especially the coffee themed pre finish options. They look amazing but £££

Up very North, my options are limited, but there is a Howdens. For the Kitchen I planned ours using DIY kitchens, but they won't deliver here, I could collect from Yorkshire though. I got a price (no worktops ) around 4k. Went to Howdens 7.2k, I sent them details of the diy Kitchens, and in the super sale they price matched. But they have a leaflet on each competitor, and list the differences, reducing the offering to match quality.. one example being that DIY kitchens soft close option is an add on to the draw box, and clip on soft close for hinges. ( I'm told?). Bottom line, you need to haggle big time to get a decent price. We ended up paying 4k for the full kitchen, with an upgrade to the walk in larder. Our concession was the removal of the cutlery draw and bin which I'll get elsewhere. They were a ridiculous price.

all Q1I bought 12 acres and had a lot to do, trenches, materiels etc. So I bought a ford 550 backhoe loader with pallet forks. It's been fantastic although leaks oil and only starts with a sniff. But, and this is a big but, trenches are not easy, as you have to reposition a lot, and if your in a tight space i.e. working next to a fence then even more moving. There's times when a 360 would have been so much easier, but in general I'm happy I went this route. But it will be sold soon.

That course was worth it's money👍. Nailed it.

We had 36mm in 6 hours 2 days ago. I. It's self not massive, but we have about 5 acres drain towards our track. Our pond (part attenuation) rose about 400mm so around 3000l.

Inflated costs. My 4kw PV, ASHP and cylinder, UFH will /is DIY install and it will cost less than £7k, but self build is horses for course's.👍

I was told we were eligible for the grant , but it needed to be MCS installed, which I declined.

The fibres in our slab were approx 50mm x 2mm x 1 mm. @saveasteading the slab didn't have any large cracks👍, and the plastic rails/expansion joints seemed to work. I've not got around to "fettle" the edges yet. We are water tight now, so this will be a rainy day job. Just trying to get the larch cladding fitted before the weather really changes. ( it was 23deg two days ago, and 7deg @ 7 am this morning.( 8 in the static🥶)

I moved to the highlands, haven't got a key 😂

This feels like a good place to add to rather than a new topic. My pre plumbed tank with buffer is 4 port. My UFH loops have approx 30l water, then Around 8m flow and return 28mm pipe. So the buffer is required, plus it gives me an immersion for solar divert. If available / required. I'm thinking of re-piping and blanking two of the ports off and putting the buffer in the return leg to ASHP So my thinking is bottom of three way connected to UFH manifold. Blank this port off. The return from the manifold into the buffer (RH top port- red label). Blank off bottom RH port. Leave ASHP return as is. Any issues with this? However I like the idea of having an additional pump to circulate water in the UFH circuits to even the slab temp out with any solar gain etc. But this wouldn't be possible if I did the above🙈. Decisions, decisions P.s. the buffer is just 4 bosses, no additional dip tubes, baffles, pipes etc inside.

Don't worry 😜

My G3 course was £300 in Inverness.

I did mine a few months back for the same reason. (Inverness ). You have to renew every 5 years.

It's a 3 Weetabix type of day

If your saying the fitting supplied won't go over the 102dia then I would buy a pan extension, but still fit the original pipe but cut it as far back as you can. I.e flush or indented into the wall. The supplied pipe will clip to the frame. Heights is just a simple question of working backwards. I find it easier to fit the waste pipe and flush pipe to the WC then sit the WC on the floor upside down, (WC lid on the floor.) Then measure the centres of the pipes from the floor. Then draw a line on the wall at the height of the WC seat..and use the measurements to mark the positions of pipe centres. Easy😉

Agree with @nod. At 120sq m it's not much bigger than my build. I had quotes for around 7k plus vat for an insulated raft add concrete and rebar and your well under 20k. Put your drawings out and get some quotes.

I'm in early stages of setting this up. I'm connecting to an ESP32 and going to log the data in Google sheets. My intention is to have data so I can understand the new house. Also the possibility of running the UFH pump if required. I'm no expert. The inbuilt WIFi connectivity of the ESP32 had benefits over Pi options for me.

My budget couldn't live with the price of those, and that won the argument😂

Glad it wasn't just me then.