Jenki

Yes. 5KW Samsung with Gen6 controller. UFH in 120mm Concrete

I can confirm, BC (Scotland) were happy with my self certified G3 compliance and signed off my build today.

All the reading of posts on here at the design stage and the hard work implementing the experience of others on your own self build can be summed up / justified with just 1 image. Even when building on a very tight budget. This is my energy usage @ The Windy Roost since we got here. Upto January 24 we were in the static, we were never really warm used Air to Air heatpump for heating, hot water and cooking was LPG. We also had around 4 summer months of our cabins being used, again electricity for heating and cooking, DHW is LPG. The blue line makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. That's our electricity for the self build, a whole house fully electric and blissfully warm with ample DHW. (With some limited cabin usage). To all self builders going through this, it's worth the effort👍.

Who said anything about gas safe. I've been plumbing for years but not gas. So I did the G3, so I could do my own heating and DHW. Thus I'm not in any scheme

@JohnMo, I want to look at this, as I'm not sure what I'm gaining with weather comp. When it's really windy eg last night, but not cold 6deg the heatpump was still trying to heat the house this AM. So this thread has prompted me to do just that I think I'll just change the parameters for weather comp so the temp range is 35deg to 35 Deg.

160m and you've got fifteen loops???? Id start there. My loops span rooms. I've got 4 loops, and 8 rooms / areas . 1 loop does bathroom and a bedroom, another a bedroom, Utility and hallway. I don't have zones, but I do have a buffer that I piped on to the return so acts to increase volume. Also my ASHP is a Samsung so I needed a pump.

Mine too.. I've commissioned mine and I'm not registered via a scheme. I've sent the paperwork to Building control for my completion certificate this week. They didn't seem to have an issue when they came to inspect so we will see. (Scotland)

Yes you can go simple, but more information is needed as 15 loops just for ground floor sounds like a massive house. My 89sqM has 4 off 90M loops at 150 centres, I didn't have the guts to go to 200or even 300mm centres. NB my UFH is in 120mm concrete slab

Brown, black, grey for me is Live, Neutral, Switch live for say Smoke alarms or Live, Live, strapper for 2 and x way switches. My brain sees black and still thinks Neutral/live, so for SWA the same applies. Brown = Live, Black=Neutral, Grey=CPC all sleeved accordingly..I'm not changing 😄

You have to look at all systems at the same time. Where will your air tightness layer be? You say bungalow, so assume single level no attic rooms? In my build, a true bungalow with cold roof, I ran conduit in the floor insulation for all services required, shower, bath, basin, WC, kitchen sink, WC, basin, utility room etc. then all pipes go under the floor from a manifold in the plant room. This allows for less penetrations into the airtightness layer. All my cables run in a service void at ceiling level and the only penetrations into the ceiling are 7 MVHR vents, plus 4 to connect to the MVHR unit. And 4 cables for solar, loft light, and a socket.

You can get Space saving trap so the trap can be moved to the back of the unit saving loads of space. A kitchen fitter should at least fit a false back to hide the pipes. You don't always get chance to move the pipes but if you care you can make them neater or disappear. I would definitely get them back.

Moving into our new build ( ICF with kilometers of rebar) we have had really poor signal. We were with Smarty who piggyback EE. WiFi calling helped until 4G data issues. Just switched to O2, and have great signal inside and out. Plus good data. So although you have two different providers a switch may help?. Getting FTTP on Friday so all data and communication woes should be banished for good.

hi @Dunc. I'm at the end of our build process and this was a green field with no services around 20months ago. I started the Warrant application, but this was held up with getting the certificate of design finalised. I did get the electricity and water connections made prior to warrant, and Installed the Treatment plan, After approval from SEPA, and Static sited, but you need the Drainage field / soakaway / rubble drain signed off as part of the warrant. I was in contact with the BC, (highlands) and he was happy with the process. lots of photos etc. and the timings helped that by the time the warrant was issued I was ready for the inspection to connect up the treatment plant.

~I'm just finalising some paperwork for my completion certificate, so the reclaim will be my next job. good to hear some positive news👍

I used a lot of sad emojis on your photo's due to the lack of a suitable fe**king mad as f*ck emoji . With self build you have to see the positives in all situations or you will want to jump off something high all too often. The positives are you've seen it, and thus can fix it. 👍 and hopefully prevent more happening... In my opinion, your not fixing this with grommets unless you pull the cables. As @Iceverge points out sealant will be the best way forward. Deep breaths, re group, crack on...

The general belief to most build hubbers is that with an unvented (sealed system) the chances of getting Legionnaires? is slim to f*ck all. I think most people on here with ASHP and UVC heat to low 40's me included. the last case in the UK was circa 2000's and IIRC from an air conditioning unit. so on my Samsung I've not connected the immersion to the control so no cycle. I assume this is the same for the cheap EV rates ?

Good idea, core a 40mm hole in the wall, dig outside adjacent to hole and stick in a submersible. Pick the lowest spot on the slab edge😁

Possibly leave it? No roof then it's just going to keep coming back, let it fill up and use a submersible as and when (just looking at it from an alternative angle)

The price is fixed until April 25, I've opted for the 500as they offered a £90 gift towards the bill on month 3, so it works out at £28/ month. After 2 years I'll shop around as they say this tariff is discounted by £30/m😲

There's not a lot of difference in all honesty but an adaptable box will have a metal lid and is a bit sturdier, all you can fit to that is a blanking plate. With a metal consumer unit I'm not sure why you wouldn't go direct.

Nearly.... That's a back box and not classed as acceptable 😔.

Holesaw the correct size for the gland straight into the consumer unit.

Had anybody had a steel building in my case 47 ft x 30 ft x 14 ft built and have the erection costs to hand? It will be 4 portal frames, timber perlins and metal clad. I've got package costs and kit costs and it seems like most things the sum of the parts have a big profit margin attached. So I'm looking to guage just erection costs if anyone has some?

I used Polysteel, and although I didn't have a blow out, I did have one corner move a little which was rescued with big ratchet straps and more sheeting. If I ever did another I would over brace the corners and lintels

What system of ICF? Deep breaths re-group and go again with the new hard earned knowledge.