Jenki

Yep, no delivery, and at the time I used the app and got extra discount but this is no longer available on solar.

I think a combination of grinding and leveling is the best bet.. I did similar with mine. Where I had some edges of the slab needed grinding and then leveling out.

I used longi 410w panels on my build from city plumbing and paid around £105 / panel delivered late 2023. I'm tempted to buy more and put them on the steel building planned for this year. Possibly off grid. I like the idea of batteries to try to get the heating and DHW plus running the cabins all off grid. But ironically the house running costs being low hinder the cost justification.

FFS. so glad I've moved to the Highlands where no one can see what's going on. This country is doomed

It's a solid slab, the heat will diffuse? through it, that's the whole point. To my mind your just making it work harder.

Never understood not putting pipe under units/ shower trays / baths, Especially if its a 100mm concrete slab. I just put loops over the whole floor, I didn't take into account any room layout. The slab was 120mm thick so I had 80 mm concrete to drill /screw fixings into if needed.

Tha fact it is around the corner would be a big plus for me. Will answered all questions, and spoke with my SE no issues. They will also do the calculations as part of the job so a saving / help there as well. I'm not self building again, but I would not hesitate to use this system again. Bit I did need EWI and IWI to hit insulation values.

We ( wife and I )did 99.8% of our 90sqm in 7 months. Full time, and ran 2 self catering cabins over the summer (around 150 nights). We didn't have any other life, just head down and ass up. It was tough, left me an exhausted 51 for a few months, I'm now ready for the next chapter. Anything is possible but it all comes at a cost ,financial, physical and or mental . 6 x 56 M will keep you fit if nothing else. But at over 3 times the size of ours I think that would have broke me.

It's my assumption. Nothing has changed we set the heat pump up set the thermostat and off it goes, it was cold and windy in January so it wasn't a change in outside temps, so my assumption was it must be the concrete core(ICF BUILD), and the drying out of skim plaster etc using more heat. Once it was stable then the heat demands dropped. I've changed to Octopus energy now so can't use the same chart for February and March. But the electric figures are holding now at around £70/m - £90/m depending on cabin usage and PV utilisation, which I'm delighted with. Makes battery storage a harder justification now.

Facts. Red and Orange lines electric costs heating crappy static caravan and a couple.of cabins through the summer. Blue line, electric cost to heat ,DHW and run a 90 sqm well insulated airtight house, and a few days of cabin usage. The drop off is the house drying out and soaking up the heat. Yesterday we had some solar gain, and the ASHP never came on overnight as the house temp was stable. 23deg might be needed in a drafty house, a well insulated, no draft house is a delight and like comparing apples and oranges. Keep the faith, insulate, make it tight as a drum and worry about something else.

I took the 3 port off mine, wired in two 2 Ports and connected the high limit stat in series to the Samsung control panel. Rules are rules

Yes. Undo to small screw and it all slides out, mine also has the probe the ASHP sat snuggled in with them as @ProDave mentioned

After some snow and heavy rain, I can see my design in action, physics doing what physics does. This is the 1st pond that has now overflowed with run off. This level has raised about 400mm. Although not finished. This has now overflowed into a gulley / pipe, that when it's finished will be concreted and form a better overflow outlet. The last pic is the new pond and the darker green shade in the water is the overflow water entering the pond. The new pond rose around 150mm so around 1500l.

The design will give you the pitch, that's the angle. If you want a set Ridge height then you work back from that height for your wall plate height, (Ridge height - Rise) the angle does not change. The birdsmouth depth will be similar to the wall plate thickness.

I put conduit under the slab for all pipes terminated at a manifold in the plant room. All plastic pipe with no joints. No pipes in the loft. Just MVHR, and ethernet cable, coaxial, power.

We have 8 Muscovy and 5 call ducks. The Muscovies have already been swimming.👍

My initial plans were to have rainwater harvesting, build hub taught me no.. so with that scrapped I needed an alternative, soakaways are difficult due to bed rock levels. In addition to this we have lots of run off on the croft, and the track to the house floods. We have already installed a pond for the ducks and this has a large berm to the back and sides so that the runoff is held back and slowly soaks away, but this winter has proved it overflows regularly, that's around 3000L extra. So the plan was to install an overflow pipe from this pond to a new larger pond. The larger pond also acting as rainwater run off capture. The larger pond will have 2 levels, a pond and then an extra layer to act as a overflow that can evaporate and or be pumped to the rubble drain in drier times. I got a big carried away with the backhoe and ended up with around 10M x 8M and over a meter deep. The overflow capacity will be around 30k - 35k L. We had to peck out some of the rock to get depth, and at the front used "as dug" rock from the quarry to form a rough and rugged stone wall, quite in keeping in Caithness. Time will heal the scars and soften the edges with planting. Due to the two levels we came up with the idea of hiding the liner under some camo net, that we intend to plant up in time. Not sure how this will stand the test of time. From the house the rainwater enters a rock filter, an idea loosely based on a post from @ToughButterCup- thanks. From the rock filter we have created a little stream that the rainwater will flow down and into the pond. In addition to this we have a pump that will take the water via a home made skimmer from the pond and filter the water from the pond through the rock filter and stream constantly. This also has a diverter to pump the water past the house and into the field to reduce the overflow capacity in drier times. This is the rock filter, and some of the pipework yet to be buried. Getting to this stage ticked a box for building control as we now handle our run off. We got our completion certificate on the house this week, yeah. There are some things to finish, the second bedroom needs decorating and trim work. And a few small jobs here and there, but in general the house is decorated, and fully functioning. We started the build in earnest around May 23 I think, so quite pleased with the effort and timescale we achieved. It's was built by me and Mandy with the odd person helping with concrete pours. 3 months in summer were busy with the cabin rentals that saw Mandy spend 3-4 hrs a day turning them around for the endless NC500 travellers.😁 We're embarking on the VAT reclaim soon. To summarise the build: 89sqm True bungalow Floor 0.094U (300mm EPs 120mm concrete) Walls 0.139U ICF with 50mm EWI and 25mm PIR IWI Cold roof 0.1U 25MM PIR 400MM mineral wool. UPVC triple glazed windows and composite doors MVHR, 4kW PV in roof, 5kW ASHP, UFH. EPC A103, Airtightness 0.83 ACH.

HiMy initial plans were to have rainwater harvesting, build hub taught me no.. so with that scrapped I needed an alternative, soakaways are difficult due to bed rock levels. In addition to this we have lots of run off on the croft, and the track to the house floods. We have already installed a pond for the ducks and this has a large berm to the back and sides so that the runoff is held back and slowly soaks away, but this winter has proved it overflows regularly, that's around 3000L extra. So the plan was to install an overflow pipe from this pond to a new larger pond. The larger pond also acting as rainwater run off capture. The larger pond will have 2 levels, a pond and then an extra layer to act as a overflow that can evaporate and or be pumped to the rubble drain in drier times. I got a big carried away with the backhoe and ended up with around 10M x 8M and over a meter deep. The overflow capacity will be around 30k - 35k L. We had to peck out some of the rock to get depth, and at the front used "as dug" rock from the quarry to form a rough and rugged stone wall, quite in keeping in Caithness. Time will heal the scars and soften the edges with planting. Due to the two levels we came up with the idea of hiding the liner under some camo net, that we intend to plant up in time. Not sure how this will stand the test of time. From the house the rainwater enters a rock filter, an idea loosely based on a post from @ToughButterCup- thanks. From the rock filter we have created a little stream that the rainwater will flow down and into the pond. In addition to this we have a pump that will take the water via a home made skimmer from the pond and filter the water from the pond through the rock filter and stream constantly. This also has a diverter to pump the water past the house and into the field to reduce the overflow capacity in drier times. This is the rock filter, and some of the pipework yet to be buried. Getting to this stage ticked a box for building control as we now handle our run off. We got our completion certificate on the house this week, yeah. There are some things to finish, the second bedroom needs decorating and trim work. And a few small jobs here and there, but in general the house is decorated, and fully functioning. We started the build in earnest around May 23 I think, so quite pleased with the effort and timescale we achieved. It's was built by me and Mandy with the odd person helping with concrete pours. 3 months in summer were busy with the cabin rentals that saw Mandy spend 3-4 hrs a day turning them around for the endless NC500 travellers.😁 We're embarking on the VAT reclaim soon. To summarise the build: 89sqm True bungalow Floor 0.094U (300mm EPs 120mm concrete) Walls 0.139U ICF with 50mm EWI and 25mm PIR IWI Cold roof 0.1U 25MM PIR 400MM mineral wool. UPVC triple glazed windows and composite doors MVHR, 4kW PV in roof, 5kW ASHP, UFH. EPC A103, Airtightness 0.83 ACH.

I thought it was also linked to NI payments, where some who were already retired found out that they now didn't have the correct amount of payments and thus receive a reduced state pension, but I might be wrong, too much other stuff to think about...

Yes. 5KW Samsung with Gen6 controller. UFH in 120mm Concrete

I can confirm, BC (Scotland) were happy with my self certified G3 compliance and signed off my build today.

All the reading of posts on here at the design stage and the hard work implementing the experience of others on your own self build can be summed up / justified with just 1 image. Even when building on a very tight budget. This is my energy usage @ The Windy Roost since we got here. Upto January 24 we were in the static, we were never really warm used Air to Air heatpump for heating, hot water and cooking was LPG. We also had around 4 summer months of our cabins being used, again electricity for heating and cooking, DHW is LPG. The blue line makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. That's our electricity for the self build, a whole house fully electric and blissfully warm with ample DHW. (With some limited cabin usage). To all self builders going through this, it's worth the effort👍.

Who said anything about gas safe. I've been plumbing for years but not gas. So I did the G3, so I could do my own heating and DHW. Thus I'm not in any scheme

@JohnMo, I want to look at this, as I'm not sure what I'm gaining with weather comp. When it's really windy eg last night, but not cold 6deg the heatpump was still trying to heat the house this AM. So this thread has prompted me to do just that I think I'll just change the parameters for weather comp so the temp range is 35deg to 35 Deg.

160m and you've got fifteen loops???? Id start there. My loops span rooms. I've got 4 loops, and 8 rooms / areas . 1 loop does bathroom and a bedroom, another a bedroom, Utility and hallway. I don't have zones, but I do have a buffer that I piped on to the return so acts to increase volume. Also my ASHP is a Samsung so I needed a pump.