Jenki

QUOTE: " In design of modules, the anodized corrosion resistant aluminum alloy frame is applied for rigidity support. For safety consideration and to protect modules from lightning and electrostatic damage, the module frame must be grounded. The grounding device must be in full contact with inner side of the aluminum alloy and penetrate surface oxide film of the frame. Do not drill additional grounding holes on module frame. The grounding conductor or wire may be copper, copper alloy, or any other material acceptable for application as an electrical conductor per respective National Electrical Codes. The grounding conductor must then make a connection to ground with a suitable ground electrode. Holes marked with a grounding mark on the frame can only be used for grounding but not for mounting. Frameless double glass modules have no exposed conductor, and therefore according to regulations it did not need to be grounded. Grounding methods below are permissible 1 Grounding by grounding clamp There have grounding holes with the diameter of Ø4.2 mm at the edge location of module's back-side frame. And the grounding holes are identified with typical grounding symbol according to IEC61730-1 standard. Grounding between modules shall be confirmed by qualified electricians and grounding devices shall be manufactured by qualified electric manufacturer. The torque of copper core wire used for the grounding clamp is recommended to be 2.3 Nm. 12 AWG. And copper wires cannot be pressed during installation in case of damaging. 2 Grounding by unoccupied mounting holes Mounting holes on modules that are not occupied can be used for installing grounding components. ◆ Align grounding clamp to the frame mounting hole. Use grounding bolt to go through the grounding clamp and frame. ◆ Put the tooth side of the washer on the other side and fasten the nuts. ◆ Put grounding wires through the grounding clamp and grounding wire material and dimension shall meet requirements in local national and regional law and regulations. ◆ Fasten bolts of grounding wires and then installation is completed. " My reading of this is they (Longi) need earthing.

Longi panel installation manual require ,grounding see section 7.

As per @Canski. Building plastics online

I've just ordered mine, I'm using the this capit board, but blocking between the rafters with 4x2. I got a quote from Eurocell, but found an online retailer that's was around £200 cheaper with delivery to me way up North. The boards arrived 2 days later, from Eurocell🤷

In Scotland they just dropped off the ducting, using the FTTP duct and connected to the copper network on the other side of the track. The copper network is rubbish, so cancelled the contact and use 4G, but have installed the ducting, so box ticked and no cost.

@Crofter why do you want MCS? DIY vs MCS is chalk and cheese, and if you can do it yourself, then I cant see any positives for the pittance you will get paid vs the front end inflated price robbery of MCS. the figures to me just don't work.

Very happy with the product. And the help Will @ Pollysteel gave. Only issue(as you've read), was a slight movement of the corner block. I was never worried about bursts.

Utility bars are good for removing skirting, if you are not bothered about the plaster. The last one I wouldn't. https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-demolition-lifting-bar/p63005 The above is great for removing floor boards from joists. And for dismantling pallets. Stud walls a Fubar is a great all rounder. https://amzn.eu/d/gklUw5V

when I've got the solution, I'll blog the install and stand back for the replies...

@dpmiller so would you say this is the best way forward, belt and braces/ a nice to have / or essential?

Resurrecting an old thread as it seems a good fit. I'm looking at ordering my trays now, its going to be 2 rows 5 columns of panels (10). and trying to work out the flashing required. 1: The instructions suggest top flashing is not usually required as the tiles overlap the gse tray. 2: Bottom flashing, I have the option of having the bottom of the panels at the gutter edge. if I were to do this the gse tray would overlap the felt support tray, so would flashing be needed here? any thoughts on this?

living in a static on site over last winter, I can assure you 10 to 12 Deg is not, what I'm aiming for in the house. Granted we had much colder some weeks, but even now with summer giving it it's best shot in North Scotland, 10deg in the bedroom is too cold and damp.

@Nickfromwales. Turned up today. Impressed.

I've not seen the Tiger Claw so would assume much superior to this, but I'm only doing this once😂 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K6MTSKT?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_ANBM4JX1D0QKZ60ZD3CT The Screwfix link is more a k rend float? I'm hoping this will be smoother,my K rend float would destroy polystyrene.

Looking at one of these, haggling on price with City Plumbing and there 15% off using there APP. Anyone any experience with them? they do a Coastal protection option which has some appeal for me being 500m from the sea. They offer a control pack but at £500 I'm looking for alternatives. The house is 88sq M with UFH well insulated ICF. and a 200L heat pump tank. so happy with the size etc, Anybody know If I can just use a standard controller on this unit?. I would speak to Samsung, but I'm sure there will be a lot of pressure to use their kit even if not essential.

as @Nickfromwales said. up here the concrete would not be coming from Inverness 2 hrs away, but that's the only pumps. My budget didn't allow for that kind of expense. so did what I had to do... and survived 😂 Would I have taken that risk for a customer doubtful. The difference is stark really £2K of concrete with free digger hire, and a few IOU some labour hours or £4K with a pump with similar risk exposure. as @saveasteading mentioned, if it all went really sideways I would have had a section of concrete drive instead,

@FM2015 cant stretch to that TigerClaw rasp, but found a considerably cheaper knock off version that should get me through. - thanks for the info👍

So after a few days off the job 1 day rest, and 2days taking care of some other bits and pieces, we've started cleaning up after the pour, and having a proper look at the problem SE ( moved) corner. The block has basically rotated, so on the south wall there is now a gap at the bottom and on the East wall the bottom block sticks out about 15mm Tapering to being back in line. It looks like I'll be able to rasp this flat on the E wall and use some foam on the S elevation. There is EWI going on this. So definitely a bullet dodged, and hopefully a easy fix.

If I remember, you need to request access to create a blog. I think if you use the + button and select blog, it will need mod approval. Then off you go

I just used another email address 🤔

Being a new expat living in the Highlands, it's not rare hearing a Scottish accent, but I reckon I hear more English southerners than Scottish, of my 3 closest neighbours 2 are locals, and one came from around 10miles from where I grew up in Manchester. Agriculture: two crazy examples. A local farmer sold his head of sheep, as the government are willing to pay him more for the next 5 years in subsidies to sell them, than he would earn rearing lambs and selling.( with a hope of meeting next zero) absolutely crazy shortsighted planning. Reminds of engineering in the 90's outsourcing everything to China, only for costs to increase, but no way back when the foundries closed etc. Secondly wool. I had my second hands on experience of rural life today assisting my neighbour with the annual sheep shearing. ( Started paying back my long I owe him list) He gets about 30 to 50 pence for a fleece. And it costs him £1.50. So why is wool insulation so expensive, my gut is big business not wanting this cheap raw material when they can sell profitable glass fibre / PIR products lobbying government for favourable incentives to use their products. Sitting here at 74M AMSL, I'm quite happy that the planet will do what it needs, the UK hitting net zero with the introduction of EV's and decimating farming will not work, and have a more detrimental effect on the planet as we will need to secure food security by way of more transport.

Interesting thread. I've put some sensors in the core of my ICF wall N,E,S and W elevations. And as they are fixed forever, I piggybacked two sensors in each location for redundancy. So that's 8, and then I've got sensors in the slab in 5 locations, these are in pipe so on theory could be replaced, I've wired these in cat 6 all back the the plant room. So if 8 is a good max number I could configure on two sets of pins ( I think I'll use ESP32) I want to create a logging system, but also measure CO² and display the info ( a future project after the build) Is there a calculation to work out resister size needed If I measure the Resistance of each cable?

Distance, 100 miles of single carriage way in the Highlands., and a bit of we don't want to do it I think.

😞Not really the answer needed on a self build (DIY)forum. If it was the admin could put that in a banner on the landing page and be done with it.

Unfortunately, it's not in the course paperwork. I asked this exact question as I want to discharge into an internal SVP. They showed examples using a waterless trap. The only stipulation they gave was they you need to be able to see the tun dish if you do not discharge outside. I.e you must be able to see the tundish or the external discharge point.