Jenki

I've built 2 cabins on my site, and this is the first time I've built in a windy area,( built a fair few large extensions but never where wind was a constant thought during the build.) It was a lightbulb moment building the cabins and the reality of trying to get good levels of airtightness was more of a concern. I'm sat here now and we've got a constant 20mph, with the odd 30 gust. I was surprised when at stick built stage how the wind was trying to push down the frame, when the OSB went on everything became more stable, but the wind blowing through any gap was surprising. All of the above can be designed around, and detailed away, but all this comes at a financial and time cost. The ICF route for me gives me a bit more security, it would be cheaper to build with block, but again the detailing if very important and most definitely not free. We're cladding the building, brick facade is not a choice in this locality. It's wet dash, render or cladding. It is definitely not stick it together and off you go, as you say the added rebar, and propping is required, but with stick built I would also have to prop during construction. But the benefit of putting it together, and once it's poured it's solid will give me a shorter time exposed to the elements. Time will tell, but that's the great (scary) thing about self build. 🤣

I like the radials idea for sockets, but I wouldn't be spending £600 on AFDD'S. there is so little evidence of Arc faults causing fatalities. IMHO, as has been said, this is a solution looking for a problem. Surge protection, yes 100%.

I agree, but the certificate of design in Scotland, which I think is a good thing, restricts changes on the fly, and the structural guy wanted those sheer walls, and two layers of OSB and some internal racking walls. All adding to costs. The gables are being timber framed and fink trusses, this was a cost decision, as eliminated another pour for the gables. In keeping with the highland vernacular, there is minimal soffit / overhang. The change to insulation at ceiling level ( cold loft) was also a cost decision. I'll have a nice service cavity at the ceiling to minimise penetrations into the airtight membrane, and I'm running hot and cold water in conduit in the slab insulation with manifolds to eliminate any joints.

I've switched plans from stick build timber frame to Polysteel ICF. I've got 40 linear m of external wall single storey. My budget is beyond tight, some would say no chance. When looking at the cost of timber, OSB (two layers for racking), additional structural support due to location ( 3 off steel sheer walls). The inflated cost of fibre insulation, costs of air barriers and tapes.etc ICF is working out a couple of grand more expensive. It's totally DIY. My location is also causing expense for delivery, so the idea of one delivery cost for the walls / foundation is offering a saving. My location is windy, so again getting this built once, and the insulation/ airtightness is all in one is a great positive. I just need to worry about airtightness at ceiling level and obviously doors and windows. Blocks are ordered and shuttering for the footings start in two weeks. Time will tell, but I'm quite confident, as the costs for the walls are fixed now.

Thanks for the time and effort posting this update. @ChrisJ👍

@FM2015, so I think your saying, if you fit EWI to create a check reveal and seal this corner, if the window needs replacing, you can cut the silicon and remove / replace the window to the inside? Do you use trims internally? Other wise the plasterboard would need removing? Just not fully understanding🙈. I plan to use EWI and create this joggle.👍

But you will need some for the connection to 1 1/4 basin wastes.

32mm for basins, 40mm for kitchen sink, bath, showers ( sometimes 50) Height does depend on the item being installed, if it's pedestal then put it anywhere, but if it's wall hung with exposed chrome traps etc then you need to be precise. I always find it easier to get all the bits ( sinks, wastes etc) together and then work backwards from finished height. You must have learned by now there is feck all standard with UK plumbing. Other than left hot, cold right. (Exception Unless you buy a mass build house and it's pot luck🤣 )

Is the plan to inbed the pipe in concrete? You need the pipes in the hardcore layer . Also the tee's are a bad / unacceptable idea. Is there any fall on the pipes? A diagram of the build up would be good.

Also look at camber trusses / raised tie truss etc., it will depend on heights etc. But a trussed roof will be far cheaper/ easier to install than traditional cut roof with steels. And the truss company will provide the calculations.

1bar drop due to temp change would seem excessive to me,. Soapy water in a spray bottle, and spray all joints. Make sure you spray the valve you are pressurising with😉.

M6 Cheaper still. It's a wooden shed and M6 with a penny washer would more than hold a few pallets together.

M6 roofing bolts, penny washers, M6 Nyloc nuts.

sq box. 2 windows 2M wide, 11 windows 850 wide, 2 door, . and the spec is for nearly 3KM of 10 mm rebar.

The crazy thing about this is: 1, poly steel blocks have a steel mesh on 150mm ctrs to form the cavity. so have lots of reinforcement in them , granted only 3mm bars on a 50mm SQ. but that's a lot. 2, This was the SE for Poly steel - he mentioned the BS for reinforcement blah blah

There is a Highland council new build guidance booklet (pdf) can't find the link🥺. It's good, and although they do ideally want rectangle, 2 gables, max 1.5 high. There's scope in there for alternatives.

My PolySteel is ridiculous, having this reviewed by my certifier of design. My spec is two rows every 300 horizontal, and 2 vertical on 150mm ctrs🙈

I am planning on using perforated angle strips, the vertical batten holds the strip in place, and the bottom ( perforated section). Covers the batten, counter batten and bottom board, (25 +25+ 22) so an 80mm wide angle will cover all the gaps, you may see a small amount of this trim on the bottom boards. But it will be neat and no faff. Trim

😂

All of the above. But 50k plus vat to draw a building that's already there FFS. I think you know the answer to your question. Put some tenders out and get some real prices to compare.

@jamieled Thanks, looks great👍

You missed Herring, a big industry resulting from the clearance's. Where we are used to have a Harbour for landing Herring, as do many of the coastal villages along this East coast.

Just 20 miles south from us then.👍

It's great to live on site, wish we'd spent a little more on the caravan quality, but it's giving me a push to get building.

I'd say this IS the reason why I want to monitor data. It might be a fad, but in the initial years I'm hoping it will help me tweak the controls of the house.