ProDave

If that's in your garden I would definitely be doing something with it. I will one day have a play with a generator in our burn but at only 1 metre head I won't get much. An undershot water wheel may work better in our situation.

I will leave my options open. I won't put the ceiling cover plate on until I see in practice how hot the outside wall of the top twin section flue really gets. It's yellow looking old style bare glass wool.

Next question, when making the hole in the roof, do I have to treat the glass wool insulation in the ceiling as "flamable" and cut it back further? or is it okay for the glass wool to touch the outside of the twin wall flue? (I am guessing glass wool is not flamable but want to be sure)

I have that adaptor, that's there after the two 45 degree bends but I have not yet fitted the locking band to clamp the sections together. One small tub of black fire cement ordered from CPC £2.54

My flue-pipes.com flue arrived today. Heavily over packed and on pallet, and delivered in a 30t truck that had trouble with our little road. But very quick delivery It all looks good and as I expected. Now I am just starting to piece it together, I have one issue, the interface from the stove to the first bit of pipe: The 2 45 degree bends fit together snug as they do into the adapter and into the twin wall. But where the first bit of pipe fit into the top flange on the stove, it is a loose fit, probably 2-3mm all round. What do I fill it with? Fire cement? fire rope? or some high temperature sealant out of a gun?

I would want a more positive diagnosis of what this fault means. In the case I mentioned, it was because the ground loop was not circulating, so the heat pump was trying to extract heat from a neat exchanger with no flow through it, and that causes something to overheat and over pressurise. Ir it is a blockage and hence low flow in the secondary I would expect if you monitored the flow and return temperature, you would find the flow temperature way too hot if crud was impeding flow. Does this happen? All basic checks you would expect them to do before just diagnose by "try it and see" (at the customers expense)

Are you sure that error is right? I wired a self installed GSHP in a new build and when fired up for the first time gave this sort of error. When I contacted technical help for the heat pump. it turned out the issue was the wter in the ground loops was not circulating due to the poor way he had plumbed it and inability to bleed an air lock. Are you sure the fault does not relate to poor ground water flow?

Oh that's good to know. they are my local sawmill, about 5 miles away. But not on the Black Isle, wrong side of the Cromarty Firth.

Is the roof tiled? I covered ours with ordinary damp proof membrane to protect the frame for the first winter. I then spent that first winter tiling the roof, so for the first part of the winter it was just the breathable membrane on the roof. Initially the window holes were boarded up with OSB until the windows were fitted late in the winter.

No need for ferules on meter tails. the ones in the CU use them because they are fine stranded links. No need to earth the switch fuses, take those earths direct. The circuits fed from the CU should be earthed to the earth bar in the CU The earthing is not as simple as you have drawn. I assume you have a PME earth? (most new supplies will be) connect that to your earth terminal. But your site socket power should be TT earth. you could just connect the rod to that socket..

I am installing myself. I will post pictures when I do it.

I'll let you know about the quality when I light the stove for the first time. And yes it is all very simple stuff so why the high prices?

Yes 1 1/2 or double bowl sink every time. We are currently slumming it with a single bowl sink in the staitc caravan and when you find something you forgot to rinse, then the only place is the bathroom basin. Also we are not having wall cupboards. Mainly because where the kitchen will go are two large windows to get the best view. We will also be having a pantry off the kitchen for food storage. Dishwashers are fine, ours probably gets used every other day, but they do NOT eliminate washing up. Plenty of stuff that can't go in them, e,g aluminium coffee pot, wooden chopping boards etc, so still a need for hand washing in the sink. On the subject of "hub of the house" our new house will have the kitchen as part of the "familly room" combining a kitchen, somewhere to eat and somewhere to watch tv etc. I remain to be convinces by this model of modern living. I really don't think I want to sit down of an evening in a room with the fridge, and worse, the dishwasher humming away. I expect I will mostly be using the separate proper living room for that.

Our last house we designed with a "wow factor" large entrance hall, and then upstairs a gallery landing that went round 3 sides of the stair well. It all looked very nice, but even then I maintained it was inefficient use of space. The new house we are building has been made much more compact and efficient. The entrance hall is a lot smaller, and the landing in particular is only as big as needed to accommodate the doors leading from it. Having a staircase with a half landing, placed at the back of the house, dictates the hall and landing are "two staircases" wide, so although small, they are more square than rectangular so don't give the "long thin" impression.

Well I have placed my order with Flue-pipes.com I will let you know how I find them. I first phoned 2 local suppliers, and both were double the price for a length of twin wall flue pipe so it was not even worth discussing all the other bits I needed with them. I noted that flue-pipes.com are based in Malta but have a UK phone number, are priced in GBP and VAT is charges at the UK rate of 20%. I don't know if I should be worried by their location or not. I paid by credit card so should not have any worries.

It surely is as simple as pointing out part of the land has already been allocated to the earlier scheme, so this current proposal is in error as it is trying to use land that is no longer available. As such they should reject the current proposal as it would not have sufficient amenity space, or advise the client to withdraw and submit a modified plan. You need to clearly raise this point, otherwise I bet it will be passed on what the plans show and the overlap will go un noticed and he will have pulled his fast one.

Too late now, I missed it the first time. But in a case like this where you have to patch up and fill bits, surely the obvious choice is Gyproc Plasterboard jointing filler the stuff that would have been used originally when dry lining the wall. Easy to apply, quick drying and easy to sand if you are not perfect at applying it.

I was talking from the perspective of a private treatment plant serving 1 dwelling, where the drain run must be vented at the treatment plant end and the far end of the run.

The reason I will not fit a downlight with insulation above is I recently fitted some fire rated downlights with LED's. They probably would have been okay covered. But I went back a while later to do another job, and the LED's had been replaced with halogen GU10's "They were too dim"

1: My BC officer insisted on at least ONE vent pipe through the roof of the house. I pointed out the far end of the run was vented at the static caravan, bur he argued that could be removed and the run capped off there and there would be no vent. He would have accepted an external stack up the outside wall from the drain run, but the parking pad had been concreted by then so it was too late. So it looks like you will need a stack through the roof or a vent pipe up the outside. 2: has to be a hard wired (or RF linked) heat detector in the kitchen 3: Arguable point. Building regs say one, but if for some reason your approved plans show 2, they might insist on 2. Argue the point and ask them to show you the reg that says you need 2. 4: Outside my expertise. 5: What sort of banister? Our previous house we used the Richard Burbidge Fusion system. By it's nature it was a pine pole fitting into a chrome bracket. There was a bit of play, but once the "slack" was taken up it was solid. Our BC officer failed it (and a few other reasons, he tried to say it needed an 1100mm high handrail) He thought it was something we cobbled together rather than a stair parts manufactured system. We protested so he "sought guidance" from the Scottish government, and a few months later deemed it was okay and issued our completion certificate.

I have got my complete kit down to £250. Twin wall flue from the above link £47 per metre, Free delivery, even it would appear to the Highlands on orders over £110 (we will see if that changes when I hit the button) Not looking forward to the very much longer runs of flue if we put stoves in the house.

This lot are the cheapest so far https://www.flue-pipes.com/ Even offering free delivery having entered my postcode Re the flashing. It's a plain aluminium roof. It's not like a tiled roof where the uphill tile sits over the top of the flashing. I might still use one to stop water running down the pipe but it will do nothing to stop water that runs down the roof and under the flashing, hence my idea to swage the edge of the hole upwards and seal with sealant (that appears to be how the gas fire flue is sealed to the roof) It's still hurting that even for this short flue, the flue is going to cost more than the stove.

Some mvhr units have a max limit on humidity, I seem to recall 80% for my unit. However, even if the humidity in the shower is 100%, it will be extracting from 4 other places a well. So the RH of what reaches the mvhr unit will be "diluted". Unless I am miss understanding that point, it would only be an issue if both showers were in use together, someone had lots of pans boiling away in the kitchen, and the utility room was full of wet washing all at the same time.

I'm putting a stove in the caravan. I have the stove, I need the flue. 5" flue out of the top of the stove. What I am needing I believe is: Two 45 degree single wall bends (to offset the flue to avoid going up through a rafter) Single to twin wall connector. Total 3 metres twin wall flue, 2 lengths of 1.5 metre? Ceiling trim to cover the hole cut in the ceiling Drip collar to go above roof penetration * Cowl / rain cover to go on the top. I am looking for the cheapest supplier for this lot so calling on the collective to tell me who you have found that is cheap. If it happens to be very close to the route from Inverness to Aberystwyth, then SWMBO could collect when she goes down shortly to visit her sister and save on delivery cost. * I don't think I need a roof flashing. It's an aluminium roof on the 'van so I am planning to cut a hole smaller than the flue diameter, swage the edge up thus forming a "gutter" and then just a rain cowl above it to stop rain running down the pipe entering.

You seem to have plenty of evidence that he is trying to over develop the plot. Present all that evidence in your objection and ask for the scheme to be rejected, or scaled down and re applied.,