ProDave

LPG use different flexi hoses to a mains gas cooker. Go to somehwere like BES to get the tight hose and they sell the fittings for it to plug into if you don't have them For instance here is a kit with the hose and the fittings https://www.bes.co.uk/micropoint-gas-cooker-installation-kit-no-4-lpg-16175

For my money, Triton all the way, cheap, reliable but not fancy, If your water pressure will support it fit the largest power you can find.

Yes I stand accused. Poetic license, I know my switchfuse is wired "wrong" I would not do it like that for a customer. I would run the inner cable of the SWA up into your consumer unit intact and distribute the earths using the earth bar in the CU. Only taking the gland earths direct to your main earth terminal.

The key difference is how they store the heat. With a UVC the water stored in the tank is the water that comes out of the tap. Of you heat it to say 55 degrees, then when you turn on a tap, water comes out at 55 degrees and continues to do so almost until all the hot water is used up then goes cold very quickly A thermal store stores it's heat in a static volume of water that never changes. You draw water via a heat exchange coil. So as soon a you start removing heat it starts to cool down. So if that wa heated to 55 degrees, the hot water would start at that, then start reducing in temperature. So you will in practice have to heat a thermal store hotter to get the same amount of usable hot water from it. The advantage of a thermal store over an UVC is the lack of requirement for over pressure valves etc and need for discharge pipework, and in theory at least you need a qualified plumber to install a UVC.

Yes, I think I will be making my own liners. Thanks for checking the market and confirming still nobody makes it in the right sizes. I used all flush hinges in my last house (except for the fire door) but thought you would call me a bodger if I suggested that.

Just to be clear. In my picture those are insulated AND sheathed cables, it's just what the cable the DNO's use up here have colour coded sheaths. It was the markings with the sharpie that he got wrong. I have installed my own rod already.

the meter monkeys round here just seem to use a white sharpie and don't always get it right

Hi and welcome to the forum. Make sure you have a good solicitor on board that understands plots. Check the planning permission. Measure the plot to make sure it is what you think and the house will actually fit. Check the services, water, electricity and in particular drainage. How will the services get to the site and from where? Easements etc. And re drainage, if not mains, what system is proposed? will it actually fit? will it actually work? These are more fundamental to get right first. Then you can design the house that suits your needs.

I too don't like the double deck Henley's. Just one thin web of brittle plastic separates them. I much prefer two singles side by side, some makes even interlock when so arranged, but much more substantial separation. But they are in now so I would leave them. You are not supposed to strip the outer sheath outside the enclosures. If you want to check the colour you take the cover off.

I would just drive a small grid tied inverter to feed into the mains. the sort of thing that's very cheap on ebay, at say a constant 50W or 100W thinking it's better to just offset the base load than just heat water with it. Alternatively if I do make a solar PV battery storage system it would just charge those batteries.

Okay, I am on the verge of ordering my stairs. I thought it worth listing the options I looked at: Pear Stairs came in at £900 for the basic price, that was before I started tweaking things that were outside the scope of their on line design tool, so very likely to have risen in price. TK stairs, I could not get their on line design tool to produce the staircase I wanted. I got close but had to fudge it. The basic price was coming in at £799. I contacted them with the saved quote and a list of the changes I needed to get it to a final quote. A week later they have not replied. Stairbox of all of them had the best on line design tool. Read into that the only one that could (almost) properly give me the staircase I wanted. The initial price was very keen. So I got them to tweak the few things I wanted changed (just short dwarf newel posts, and a slightly longer going at 260mm giving an angle of 38 degrees) I was initially a bit peeved when that pushed the price up another £150, but they are still the cheapest at £811 inc VAT and delivered The local joiner wants £1420 plus VAT. So it looks like Stairbox will be getting the order.

Why would you link it to your DHW? Assuming like mine it would be very low power, it might as well just generate 50W or so of 240V and offset the base load. It would be rare not to have that much in use in the house ever.

The (almost) finished item The stove is a cheap Chinese Kresnick from woodburner world, 4Kw I don't expect it to be particularly efficient. The granite slabs it sits on are offcuts from worktops I got from freecycle ages ago, at last I have found a use for them. The back one and the one up the side of the unit have an air gap behind them. I just lit some cardboard in it just to make sure it draws okay, better wait for that fire cement before I fire it up properly. And here's the flue. It's raining now and it doesn't seem to leak.

If that's in your garden I would definitely be doing something with it. I will one day have a play with a generator in our burn but at only 1 metre head I won't get much. An undershot water wheel may work better in our situation.

I will leave my options open. I won't put the ceiling cover plate on until I see in practice how hot the outside wall of the top twin section flue really gets. It's yellow looking old style bare glass wool.

Next question, when making the hole in the roof, do I have to treat the glass wool insulation in the ceiling as "flamable" and cut it back further? or is it okay for the glass wool to touch the outside of the twin wall flue? (I am guessing glass wool is not flamable but want to be sure)

I have that adaptor, that's there after the two 45 degree bends but I have not yet fitted the locking band to clamp the sections together. One small tub of black fire cement ordered from CPC £2.54

My flue-pipes.com flue arrived today. Heavily over packed and on pallet, and delivered in a 30t truck that had trouble with our little road. But very quick delivery It all looks good and as I expected. Now I am just starting to piece it together, I have one issue, the interface from the stove to the first bit of pipe: The 2 45 degree bends fit together snug as they do into the adapter and into the twin wall. But where the first bit of pipe fit into the top flange on the stove, it is a loose fit, probably 2-3mm all round. What do I fill it with? Fire cement? fire rope? or some high temperature sealant out of a gun?

I would want a more positive diagnosis of what this fault means. In the case I mentioned, it was because the ground loop was not circulating, so the heat pump was trying to extract heat from a neat exchanger with no flow through it, and that causes something to overheat and over pressurise. Ir it is a blockage and hence low flow in the secondary I would expect if you monitored the flow and return temperature, you would find the flow temperature way too hot if crud was impeding flow. Does this happen? All basic checks you would expect them to do before just diagnose by "try it and see" (at the customers expense)

Are you sure that error is right? I wired a self installed GSHP in a new build and when fired up for the first time gave this sort of error. When I contacted technical help for the heat pump. it turned out the issue was the wter in the ground loops was not circulating due to the poor way he had plumbed it and inability to bleed an air lock. Are you sure the fault does not relate to poor ground water flow?

Oh that's good to know. they are my local sawmill, about 5 miles away. But not on the Black Isle, wrong side of the Cromarty Firth.

Is the roof tiled? I covered ours with ordinary damp proof membrane to protect the frame for the first winter. I then spent that first winter tiling the roof, so for the first part of the winter it was just the breathable membrane on the roof. Initially the window holes were boarded up with OSB until the windows were fitted late in the winter.

No need for ferules on meter tails. the ones in the CU use them because they are fine stranded links. No need to earth the switch fuses, take those earths direct. The circuits fed from the CU should be earthed to the earth bar in the CU The earthing is not as simple as you have drawn. I assume you have a PME earth? (most new supplies will be) connect that to your earth terminal. But your site socket power should be TT earth. you could just connect the rod to that socket..

I am installing myself. I will post pictures when I do it.

I'll let you know about the quality when I light the stove for the first time. And yes it is all very simple stuff so why the high prices?