ProDave

Do that test on the motor, and if that works, you can connect it straight to the key switch.

I am so sorry to hear of your situation Moira, and people like you that seem to be coping well with it are an inspiration to others. It shows this forum is so much more than a place to ask questions about how to build a house, and I am so glad we managed to get the forum up and running and now going from strength to strength.

Warning. This thread contains serious house porn. Likely to create envy amongst self builders who are a long way from finishing. Looks fantastic and your price per square metre sets a target for the rest of us to aim for.

Yes but it will have that switch inside even if you are not currently using the 5th large terminal. It might be simpler just to fit a timer to turn the bottom heater on in the small hours when it's on the cheap rate, probably cheaper than fitting a dedicated off peak CU.

That tells you how to mechanically assemble it. This one https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/AR433- plus instructions - updated.pdf mentions the motor colours that I posted earlier and states 230V to the motor And This one https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/AR433 Standard Remote Control Instructions.pdf mentions that power is supplied to one motor terminal for opening and the other motor terminal for closing. Hence the test I suggested above. As already pointed out, there are limit switches, so I still believe you are missing a control box probably containing some relays that the whole lot connects to.

Throughout my whole build I have been Daving loads of money.

I am not convinced you have all the parts you need. You have the roller door and motor, and you have a key switch. Where is the control box for the safe edge or limit switches to connect to? These two sets of instructions give some information https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/AR433- plus instructions - updated.pdf and https://www.auto-roll.com/sites/default/files/AR433 Standard Remote Control Instructions.pdf From those it looks like Green / Yellow is earth (no surprise there) Blue is neutral, and the black and brown are L to the motor. The other document tends to suggest one is for up and the other is for down. So if you wanted to try it (without the curtain attached) you could try L to brown and N to blue and see if it turns. Then try L to black and N to blue and see if it turns the other way. Make sure the cable not connected is insulated when trying that. If it does not turn, then disconnect the power immediately Let me know what that does. Can you see anything else with wires, e.g. end of travel limit switches or any other device that may be intended to stop motion if it traps an object?

Another big advantage of at least getting the foundations in, is that in the eyes of the planners, you have "started" so the planning permission is locked in, usually without any time constraints on when you can finish. I could drive you around our local town and show you at least 4 houses built to slab level than work has stopped. They have been like that for 2 years. No doubt the developers have decided now is not the time to build them but were facing PP about to expire, so they "started" the development to lock in the planning.

So you are looking forward to 25 days of peace and quiet.

A dual rate meter will (should) also have a heavy duty switch contact and a switched output. If you look at the meter there will be 5 big terminals, not just the 4 on a normal single rate meter. So connect the spare (assuming you only have 4 cables in there at the moment) to a small off peak consumer unit and that will only be energised at off peak times. If you don't have this 5th terminal connected and no off peak CU how are you powering the storage heaters?

That just tells you what the SWITCH does. Concentrate on the motor or the door itself. Look for part numbers and search or post them here. It is the motor you are lacking information on.

You don't even need a timer for the bottom one. Use the DNO supplied off peak supply and wire it to that (same CU as the storage heaters) so it just comes on when the cheap rate is on. Use a boost switch for the top heater. like this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTGBT4.html

My money is on one of our bathrooms being finished first. I haven't bought anything yet, well apart from a bath.

What is missing (or you have just not posted it yet) is a diagram that shows what coloured wire goes where on the switch. Or the exact model number so we can search for information.

I have long since given up any notion of having a "plan" about when we will move in. But of the only thing stopping us was a lack of staircase, then I would use a ladder!!!!! (getting the furniture up may be a challenge) At least living on site all the services are in. What I learned about those is they ALL took longer than they said they would, so start getting those in LONG before you think you might need them.

There are two sides tho this. Getting the physical cable in place, and getting it connected. I did persue the Open Reach route at the start of the build. About all that did was to identify exactly where the cable had to run to, and a drum of free issue SWA 6 pair phone cable. I then knew the phone cable had to cross the road, so was able to provision for that when the other services also crossed the road. That left me with a phone cable from the house to the grass verge immediately above where I was told the BT cable was. When it came to connection time it was a call to BT as a new connection. The OR engineer that attended first was the one I saw 2 years ago who gave me the drum of cable. As it happens the connection took way longer than it should have done and I got my connection fee refunded and 12 months of heaviliy discounted broadband as compensation for the delay. If I had missed out the Open Reach bit at the start, and just gone to BT for new connection, I would have missed out on knowing where the connection was to be made. That would almost certainly meant OR digging a fresh road crossing. I would also have missed out on the chance to bury the cable into the house before I did the basic landscaping, so would have resulted in my lawn being dug up.

That looks like the typical "help me out, it has to be finished by Christmas" jobs that pour in at this time of year.

Interesting how it varies from one council to another. It would have been north of £300 here.

Never trust a plumber to design the pipe runs (off to get my tin hat) My plumber friend when he designed his house, he put the thermal store in the diametrically opposite corner of the house to the kitchen.........

Does the basin tap pipe run go next door and back first? Why the difference?

You would still have needed a road opening permit though. We found it was cheapest to get Scottish Water to make the road crossing, the utilities have a permanent road opening permit, any private contractor would have had to apply for and pay for one.

I suspect it is a quirk of how road closure orders work. You can't apply to close it for one unspecified day within next month, so faced with that inflexibility, they apply to close it for the whole month knowing it will be closed only 1 day. There is a small development in the town here with a "road closed for 6 months" sign. I think I have counted 2 days closure so far. So your sign is as close as they are able to say, when they mean "will be closed for 1 day, some time in the next 25 days"

This must be a regional variation thing then. My only concern is how long will the P5 be exposed to the weather? Another poster on here had his sag and swell due to exposure to rain. I have only known one stick build where the first floor deck went down early and they used a truly waterproof chipboard because it was going to be exposed for a while. for working on, we had a temporary OSB deck as soon as the joists were down.

Buy a boundry box or 3 (known as a Toby up here) Cut into your pipe under your land and use one or more. I used three, one to feed the stand pipe for building water, one to feed the static caravan and one to feed to the house.

Related to this withdraw the application thing. I will tell the cautionary tale of someone I used to work with. He applied for a massive extension to a house more than doubling it's size. It met with several objections. He was advised to withdraw and re submit. What he actually did was submit a second slightly different application, which got a new application number. THEN he withdrew the original. Nobody noticed the new application number and when it came before the planning committee, there were "no objections" and it was passed. I think his planning consultant knew the system and played it.