ProDave

Yes 1 1/2 or double bowl sink every time. We are currently slumming it with a single bowl sink in the staitc caravan and when you find something you forgot to rinse, then the only place is the bathroom basin. Also we are not having wall cupboards. Mainly because where the kitchen will go are two large windows to get the best view. We will also be having a pantry off the kitchen for food storage. Dishwashers are fine, ours probably gets used every other day, but they do NOT eliminate washing up. Plenty of stuff that can't go in them, e,g aluminium coffee pot, wooden chopping boards etc, so still a need for hand washing in the sink. On the subject of "hub of the house" our new house will have the kitchen as part of the "familly room" combining a kitchen, somewhere to eat and somewhere to watch tv etc. I remain to be convinces by this model of modern living. I really don't think I want to sit down of an evening in a room with the fridge, and worse, the dishwasher humming away. I expect I will mostly be using the separate proper living room for that.

Our last house we designed with a "wow factor" large entrance hall, and then upstairs a gallery landing that went round 3 sides of the stair well. It all looked very nice, but even then I maintained it was inefficient use of space. The new house we are building has been made much more compact and efficient. The entrance hall is a lot smaller, and the landing in particular is only as big as needed to accommodate the doors leading from it. Having a staircase with a half landing, placed at the back of the house, dictates the hall and landing are "two staircases" wide, so although small, they are more square than rectangular so don't give the "long thin" impression.

Well I have placed my order with Flue-pipes.com I will let you know how I find them. I first phoned 2 local suppliers, and both were double the price for a length of twin wall flue pipe so it was not even worth discussing all the other bits I needed with them. I noted that flue-pipes.com are based in Malta but have a UK phone number, are priced in GBP and VAT is charges at the UK rate of 20%. I don't know if I should be worried by their location or not. I paid by credit card so should not have any worries.

It surely is as simple as pointing out part of the land has already been allocated to the earlier scheme, so this current proposal is in error as it is trying to use land that is no longer available. As such they should reject the current proposal as it would not have sufficient amenity space, or advise the client to withdraw and submit a modified plan. You need to clearly raise this point, otherwise I bet it will be passed on what the plans show and the overlap will go un noticed and he will have pulled his fast one.

Too late now, I missed it the first time. But in a case like this where you have to patch up and fill bits, surely the obvious choice is Gyproc Plasterboard jointing filler the stuff that would have been used originally when dry lining the wall. Easy to apply, quick drying and easy to sand if you are not perfect at applying it.

I was talking from the perspective of a private treatment plant serving 1 dwelling, where the drain run must be vented at the treatment plant end and the far end of the run.

The reason I will not fit a downlight with insulation above is I recently fitted some fire rated downlights with LED's. They probably would have been okay covered. But I went back a while later to do another job, and the LED's had been replaced with halogen GU10's "They were too dim"

1: My BC officer insisted on at least ONE vent pipe through the roof of the house. I pointed out the far end of the run was vented at the static caravan, bur he argued that could be removed and the run capped off there and there would be no vent. He would have accepted an external stack up the outside wall from the drain run, but the parking pad had been concreted by then so it was too late. So it looks like you will need a stack through the roof or a vent pipe up the outside. 2: has to be a hard wired (or RF linked) heat detector in the kitchen 3: Arguable point. Building regs say one, but if for some reason your approved plans show 2, they might insist on 2. Argue the point and ask them to show you the reg that says you need 2. 4: Outside my expertise. 5: What sort of banister? Our previous house we used the Richard Burbidge Fusion system. By it's nature it was a pine pole fitting into a chrome bracket. There was a bit of play, but once the "slack" was taken up it was solid. Our BC officer failed it (and a few other reasons, he tried to say it needed an 1100mm high handrail) He thought it was something we cobbled together rather than a stair parts manufactured system. We protested so he "sought guidance" from the Scottish government, and a few months later deemed it was okay and issued our completion certificate.

I have got my complete kit down to £250. Twin wall flue from the above link £47 per metre, Free delivery, even it would appear to the Highlands on orders over £110 (we will see if that changes when I hit the button) Not looking forward to the very much longer runs of flue if we put stoves in the house.

This lot are the cheapest so far https://www.flue-pipes.com/ Even offering free delivery having entered my postcode Re the flashing. It's a plain aluminium roof. It's not like a tiled roof where the uphill tile sits over the top of the flashing. I might still use one to stop water running down the pipe but it will do nothing to stop water that runs down the roof and under the flashing, hence my idea to swage the edge of the hole upwards and seal with sealant (that appears to be how the gas fire flue is sealed to the roof) It's still hurting that even for this short flue, the flue is going to cost more than the stove.

Some mvhr units have a max limit on humidity, I seem to recall 80% for my unit. However, even if the humidity in the shower is 100%, it will be extracting from 4 other places a well. So the RH of what reaches the mvhr unit will be "diluted". Unless I am miss understanding that point, it would only be an issue if both showers were in use together, someone had lots of pans boiling away in the kitchen, and the utility room was full of wet washing all at the same time.

I'm putting a stove in the caravan. I have the stove, I need the flue. 5" flue out of the top of the stove. What I am needing I believe is: Two 45 degree single wall bends (to offset the flue to avoid going up through a rafter) Single to twin wall connector. Total 3 metres twin wall flue, 2 lengths of 1.5 metre? Ceiling trim to cover the hole cut in the ceiling Drip collar to go above roof penetration * Cowl / rain cover to go on the top. I am looking for the cheapest supplier for this lot so calling on the collective to tell me who you have found that is cheap. If it happens to be very close to the route from Inverness to Aberystwyth, then SWMBO could collect when she goes down shortly to visit her sister and save on delivery cost. * I don't think I need a roof flashing. It's an aluminium roof on the 'van so I am planning to cut a hole smaller than the flue diameter, swage the edge up thus forming a "gutter" and then just a rain cowl above it to stop rain running down the pipe entering.

You seem to have plenty of evidence that he is trying to over develop the plot. Present all that evidence in your objection and ask for the scheme to be rejected, or scaled down and re applied.,

All downlights need to have free space above them. That means removing a section of insulation. In a cold roof that means creating a huge hole in the insulation and worse still an air gap for heat to escape. The latter is a little less bad if you use bathroom IP rated downlights that have glass in front of the lamp so less space for air to escape. For this reason I am not a fan of downlighters. I have seen them where the loft insulation monkey comes along later, covers the whole lot in insulation, then they get so hot the plasterboard scorches and crumbles and the light falls down fom the ceiling. How it did not catch fire beats me. My honest opinion is only fit them in a warm roof.

My desk is a shade over 700mm high. At 1200 high it would be about level with the top pf my pc monitor. At your proposed 1450 high, it would be well above the pc monitor and completely out of the way.

In Scotland consumer unit height is not covered by building regs, I checked when a new build I am wiring wanted it high up, out of reach of his Autistic son, and BC said it can be any height you want. Ask your local building control to be sure. If it did have to be a specific height, I would expect it to be 1200 like light switches for accessibility (that is the height I have set my own)

If you want them to turn into bananas

Our Rationell windows came screwed to the pallets with a lot of very good torx head screws, some nice brackets, and some sheets of plywood. All got saved and used, why would you not? Then my neighbour had his Rationel windows delivered. The screws were just dropped on the ground. I went and fetched my large magnet. (A variation on skip diving I suppose) I can't abide waste.

Except the drawings show 4 bedroom houses. How many spaces will that need per house?

I am pretty sure they will not approve an application until everything including drainage is detailed and approved. That letter was a nudge for the applicant to provide details.

You need to kick the bottom tile up, just to get it to the same angle as the others as it does not have a tile to sit on. some do that with double battens, some kick up the fascia boards and rest it on that. Take a trip to TP and buy some lengths of easy tray, a 1.5 metre long plastic strip with a formed rolled edge exceedingly cheap . This goes along the eaves and forms the entry into the gutter (not explained that very well) On a normal roof you would have an eaves vent strip as well, but probably not on an uninsulated shed roof. but it it's a proper insulated man cave then you want the eaves vent. Here is my roof. The fascia is set at the right height that together with the easy tray and the OV10 vent strip, the bottom tile is in line with the rest.

Can you not tell if it's outline or full from the planning ref No? in your case there's a V in the number is that significant (up here they are either PIP , planning in principle, FUL for full and there's another one for approval of reserved matters) Make your observations to the council exactly as you have highlighted here to try and prevent a "fast one" I could not even see a site location plan or layout plan so has he submitted those?

Hopefully it has. this was back in 2006

I hope the fact that my frame will have been up nearly 2 years now, and I am only now plasterboarding, means it has already done most of it's shrinking and settling.

I did my own last time. Filling in the list of items and submitting invoices is the easy, if time consuming bit. It's the daft questions on the form, like how many cubic metres of timber did you use? Has anyone had a claim rejected because they used too many or too few cubic metres of wood? I did a VERY rough calculation just to put a figure in the box and filed it under the "stupid question" category. There were a whole host including how many litres of paint etc.