ProDave

That's about it. Remember for a site supply and the caravan you should use a TT earth, not any earth the DNO may provide (your electrician should know that) When you come to get the supply moved into the house, it is a clumsy 2 man process. If you are lucky the DNO will move the supply in the morning, and the supply company will come and move the meter in the afternoon. You probably don't want to be with one of the small suppliers for that move either.

It's a personal thing, I dislike 3 port valves. My LG heat pump was the same it proposed a 3 port valve to switch between heating and hot water but I used two 2 port valves instead. When one is open the other is shut. Simple, and the separate feedback switches from each makes other controls easier. I think most heat pumps only ever heat hot water, or heating separately, never together, because of the different flow temperatures. But nothing wrong with doing as they say and using a 3 port. I will let others who have done so advise on a buffer tank.

I would not use a 3 port valve. Work of the devil in my mind. I would use separate 2 port valves, one for hot water and one for heating. Without seeing the dull description of the valce wiring terminals you might need to add a relay to achieve that. Once you have separate 2 port valves, it is then a simple matter of connecting the heating 2 port valve's switch contact (orange and grey wires) to turn on the UFH manifold and it's pump whenever the heating is on.

The ground loop circuit will be full of brine so won't freeze, and the water circuit if filled with ordinary inhibitor / antifreeze won't be at risk either. I have an ASHP and by it's very nature that is outside. The water circuit if filled with 25% standard central heating glycol based inhibitor / antifreeze that will give protection down to -10 My ASHP has an inbuilt function that if it detects the water circuit to be getting close to 0, it turns on the circulating pump (not the heat pump) for a few minutes to mix the water around a bit and get some less cold water from that part of the circuit in the house into the heat pump.

This is an interesting thread. There is a new build near here (one I wired) that was a replacement for an old cottage. It turns out the plot was a lot bigger than the original house site and previously the local farmer had sold some extra land with an uplift clause. As soon as the new owner started rebuilding, it became aparant that his garage was being built on the bit with the uplift clause (the house was being built on the original site) The farmer tried to claim his uplift, but the owner basically stuck 2 fingers up at him and said the clause is unenforeceable. I don't know the details, but I wonder if it's the person being a beneficiary, not "land"

@JSHarris the thing that always struck me about Scrapheap, was they would drag the engine out of some wreck, stick it on the contraption they were making, and it would always work. Were the engines tested or were they advised in advance which ones were good? Did it ever happen that after all the work they actually found the salvaged engine was a dud?

yes but we dare not speak it.

Are women that devious?

If you are worried about the loo flushing bothering Bedroom 3, make that a thicker twin wall structure so the 2 sides are each their own structure if that makes sense, with insulation between.

Surely if a building does not match the approved plans, the enforcement action should be to change it so it does (e.g change the cladding) not totally demolish it?

That link gives a 403 error

That's different. Tell him, he should be looking after YOUR interests, not the buyers. If your buyer has not yet got wind of this "offering" I would keep quiet and instruct your solicitor it is not necessary and importantly not to even mention it to the buyers solicitor. When selling our old house down south, our buyer asked for indemnity insurance due to possible breaching a "no building without permission" covenant (which I think was worded so as not be unenforceable) Because it was the buyer that had spotted the issue and wanted the policy, I was happy to pay for it to keep the deal going.

I share your view that they are a scam, but personally I would not just say no, however unlikely it may be, the buyer could walk away. I would just stump up the fee which is probably small beer in the scheme of things. Perhaps I am more cautious having had trouble selling before, I would not want to do anything to alienate a procedable buyer.

Who says they are only for vented systems?

For thee to be 2 earth wires there must be 2 cables. You need to find the actual cables, not just a subset of the cores from them. When fitting that sort of light, people often just stuff the "spare" cores up through the hole as there is not enough room in the light fitting for them all. When you have dug them all out, post a picture, and turn the power off before you go poking up the hole!!!!!!

Well it took a LOT of searching but I have found one. The problem is, all the kit I can find on sale anywhere is current kit. So basically that means the few dual rate meters on sale are the modern ones with built in time clocks to switch from day to night rate. Totally useless for what I want. While there are a handful of "vintage" meters on sale they are all single rate. Eventually, after contacting several sellers on ebay to ask if they have what I want, one of them does. It probably fits the classification of "vintage" as it's a spinning disk dual rate meter but at least it has digital dials not analogue ones, and definitely has an external rate select input. So when I get it hopefully later this week I can start monitoring the energy cost of this house now we are living in it.

Dig deeper and you will probably find more wires shoved into a terminal block and poked through the hole in the ceiling.

I am still needing two. Every house I have yet seen, including those with mvhr and no ordinary window vents, still has vents in the roof windows. I honestly didn't think you could buy them without. Can someone point me to details of ventless, but opening 3G roof windows please? And tell me how much extra you have to pay for not having a vent fitted.

Building control here specifically prohibit timber ramps because they know they may not be permanent.

last house was just a standard oil boiler, no buffer. New house is ASHP no buffer.

It does not have to be complicated. I just bought the most basic UFH manifold control box I could find. Each room has an ordinary mechanical room stat. And it is all controlled by an ordinary boiler time clock. When it is all connected together, if any room calls for heat (when it is on) then a relay contact closes that instructs the heat pump to deliver heat, in exactly the same way as it would instruct a boiler to deliver heat. The secret to a simple system is choosing simple controls and connecting them correctly.

I have just looked at mine. The pipe exits the floor with the back of the pipe probably 10 to 15mm clear of the finished wall, The pan joins nicely with a standard 90 degree pan connector going straight from the pan into the pipe. Could not be simpler. Leave the pipe a bit long and cut to length when you have the pan and know the height of the spigit and finished floor covering in place.

I was in the town, not the city. And that is about what I paid at TP, still twice what screwy's were selling it previously.

That makes more sense. A "booze cruise to the borders" To be honest I buy most of my Whisky from Lidl, whatever they have on offer, usually have something decent for not so much money. There are some well known and not so well known distileries around here like the already mentioned Glenmorangie, Balblair, Dalmore, Teaninich, Glen Ord, Tomatin, and it's not far to Speyside. Look out for the new kid on the block, The Ardross distillery under construction 2 miles from here hoping to start production next year.

The OSB just sat in the bottom of the I beam. Does not help you though.