ProDave

check VERY carefully with a meter BEFORE you connect it. i.e connect a bit of flex and a plug to provide power to L and N in. Then turn the thermostat up so it calls for heat and measure with a multimeter what comes out of L1 and N1 You don't want to be connecting a switched L to something expecting a dry volt free contact.

But even an English leasehold would give the leasee rights to extend it or buy the freehold. What is he actually trying to achieve?

@Stones do you have a measure of how many KWh of electricity your heat pump is using per day / week etc?

Even the flat we used to own here was freehold. I suspect what they want, and what they can actually have, may not be the same.

We have been living on site in the static caravan for 18 months and now in the unfinshed house. Family life adapts to the circumstances. I would be surprised if there was room on a garden plot for a static 'van, but perhaps it was some sized garden?

@Carrerahill @epsilonGreedy Please refrain from having a slanging match. This is a friendly and helpful forum. This behaviour is not what we want.

I put the heating on here on Friday. Unlike you lot down south basking in summer temperatures still, it was a high of 7 degrees here today after being close to 0 overnight. It's been an average of about 10 degrees for well over a week now. And grey and overcast, so no solar gain to speak of to help things along. Had we still been in the caravan we would have been heating it for weeks now., I am monitoring my energy input and will make a post about it at the end of the week when I have a full week or recording but the first 3 days suggests it is following the expected heat loss model.

Ah, another "southerner"

You can connect it and have it working and giving you free electricity any time, it's just the FIT application that you can't submit until you have the lodged as built EPC. If you are going to do that I suggest your electrician does not connect the generation meter until you are ready to submit the FIT application.

The construction of that is exactly the same as the LED backlight system employed in a lot of flat screen LCD tv's. I have stripped plenty of those down in the past.

The issue is the usual question is something like "is the house built of brick or block under a tiled or slate roof" Normally timber frame with a masonry outer skin satisfies that. But no outer masonry skin and it becomes "non standard construction" in the eyes of many lenders. I doubt they care which render system is used, it is the fact it is not applied to masonry that troubles them. You could try saying "timber frame, tiled roof, render exterior finish" and see what they say?

My ASHP is heating my DHW to 47 degrees. This was found by experiment over a few days to be the absolute hottest I could hold my hand under without it being painful. Hot enough for washing up. Bathwater will be cooler with cold water added. So an ASHP seems perfectly capable of heating DHW. The caveat being I fitted a larger hot water cylider as you will be diluting with less cold, so will need a greater volume of hot water.

MY LG Therma V air to water heat pump has a cooling function, but I am not planning to use it.

Basically the rules are if it has been your primary residence, then the period it was your primary residence is exempt from CGT and so is the last 18 months of ownership regardless of it's use in that time. After that there is a possibility it may be liable for some CGT but don't forget you have your personal CGT allowance to use up (twice if jointly owned) before you actually pay anything, so very unlikely indeed that you would actually have to pay any CGT. If you then let a property that was formerly your primary residence, you then get letting relief as well, which is a more complicated "lower of 3" sum, but gives a further allowable gain before CGT is payable.

We have a burn flowing through our garden and I toyed with the idea of a water source heat pump. I didn't have anything expensive like that in mind just a loop of pipe down the burn and back up again (about 40 metres of length available) fed into a ground source heat pump. The paperwork of getting permission from SEPA and more likely having to prove to BC that we had permission put me off and I went for a cheap ASHP instead. I might still experiment in the future though. I don't suppose you own both sides of that bywash do you? An undershot water wheel looks like it might work there, another thing I am thinking of playing with later on.

It is surprising where you can muster up funds from, make savings etc. We started out with barely enough funds to get a watertight shell without the sale of our old house, yet somehow, by scrimping and saving, doing a LOT of work myself to save labour costs, and a couple of injections of capital, we are on course to just about complete the new house without the sale of the old one. Your £200K should get you a long way, certainly I would have thought to habitable, if not complete.

The FIT ends to new entrants from April but if you can get in before that you will be good for the duration. The issue is needing an EPC to claim it which is what stopped me and has caused me much bitterness because nobody will lodge an EPC on an incomplete house. You can still install solar PV without the FIT. If you just buy the kit you can probably get a 4KW system for about £2K way cheaper than paying for an MCS installer to fit it. Just mount the panels yourself and get your electrician to fit it. You will benefit from the self usage of what you generate even without ant FIT payments, so make sure you e.g have a hot water tank to divert excess generation to. Check also how much you are paying an MCS installer to fit your ASHP. and what your RHI payments will be. You might find it is cheaper to just buy a cheap ASHP and install yourself and it still works out cheaper. P.S where in Scotland are you building?

I don't know what to suggest. We had the same problem with the cheap Chinese stove that I put in the static caravan, but that only had a short (2.5 metre) flue. It was alright when up to temperature, so we just learned how to stack it up to get it hot quick without needing refueling before it got hot. But most of last winter it didn't ever go out so this was not an issue.

How is the pipe connected to what I think is a brick chimney? If not well sealed with a closure plate, the draw from the chimney may not be sucking up the bit of connecting flue pipe. Most stoves are designed for a "warm flue" If it is an old brick or stone chimney I will bet it has no insulation around it and is anything but a warm flue.

It will be interesting how this is policed. Will all owners of such systems be advised they have a year to upgrade? Or will it only be enforced if a polution incident is reported and investigated? My immediate neighbour immediately upstream of me has such a tank and it can smell i bit at times so I won't be sorry to see him forced to upgrade. Like us he has little option to discharge anywhere else so a treatment plant discharging to the burn is what he needs.

Interesting that Rationel were one of the best and the cheapest, that was my finding. In fact the only ones that quoted me better Uw values than Rationel, were Internorm, but at twice the price. Before you get too bogged down in you "must" have a certain Uw or Ug value, do a heat loss calculation. Compare how much extra heat will be lost through what Rationel are offering, compared to the best you can find, then work out the extra heating cost of that extra heat loss and work out the pay back times. I think you may find you will never recoup the extra you have to spend to get better windows. I am certainly pleased with the look and quality of my Rationel Aura plus triple glazed aluminium clad doors and windows and it does seem strange to hear talk of rejecting them because they are not good enough. If you want to try a couple more, add Katzbeck and Russel Timbertech to your list.

I got called to our old house, still a B&B. They had a foreign guest in an EV and wanted to plug in his charger. It claimed to be rated at 7KW but had a moulded on Schuko plug on it. But given a Schuko plug is rated at 16A, I am intrigued to know how it can deliver 7WK I cobbled together an adaptor and it charged his car overnight from a 13A plug without melting the plug or blowing it's fuse.

The risk here is the DNO's cable (usually concentric these days) is normally installed in place then terminated. There is no cable clamp. So if you pick up a live meter box and start moving it around, you will be putting strain on the connections, and quite probably a rotational strain. Even if the cable does not fall out and short, there is a serious risk of weakening the clamp force on the connections, leading to overheating later on. And don't even think of mitigating that by breaking the seals to re tighten the live connections. Up here is it something like £90 extra for a "building supply" which then covers the cost of relocating the supply into the house when finished. £90 well spent for safety. The reason I chose the option of making the external meter box on the boundary a permanent thing as it feeds from there to the static caravan and a garden shed. Both are permanent items. If I had chosen the "building supply" option and later had the meter moved into the house, I would promptly have been running my own supply back out to the 'van and the shed, so it just saved a whole lot of extra work keeping the meter box where it is.

ASHP, MVHR and Sun Amp definitely on their own circuits. My UFH manifolds are run from the "heating controls" circuit. 6A Sockets in the plant room are one ring final feeding utility, garage and plant room.

My thought if I could not have found the meter I had, was use the current transformer versions of those din rail meters, and switch 1 CT between the 2 meters to achiieve the dual rate switching. I will add a bit of trunking under the meter to protect the single insulated cables, when I can find the handy offcut I know I have somewhere.