ProDave

Well it took a LOT of searching but I have found one. The problem is, all the kit I can find on sale anywhere is current kit. So basically that means the few dual rate meters on sale are the modern ones with built in time clocks to switch from day to night rate. Totally useless for what I want. While there are a handful of "vintage" meters on sale they are all single rate. Eventually, after contacting several sellers on ebay to ask if they have what I want, one of them does. It probably fits the classification of "vintage" as it's a spinning disk dual rate meter but at least it has digital dials not analogue ones, and definitely has an external rate select input. So when I get it hopefully later this week I can start monitoring the energy cost of this house now we are living in it.

Dig deeper and you will probably find more wires shoved into a terminal block and poked through the hole in the ceiling.

I am still needing two. Every house I have yet seen, including those with mvhr and no ordinary window vents, still has vents in the roof windows. I honestly didn't think you could buy them without. Can someone point me to details of ventless, but opening 3G roof windows please? And tell me how much extra you have to pay for not having a vent fitted.

Building control here specifically prohibit timber ramps because they know they may not be permanent.

last house was just a standard oil boiler, no buffer. New house is ASHP no buffer.

It does not have to be complicated. I just bought the most basic UFH manifold control box I could find. Each room has an ordinary mechanical room stat. And it is all controlled by an ordinary boiler time clock. When it is all connected together, if any room calls for heat (when it is on) then a relay contact closes that instructs the heat pump to deliver heat, in exactly the same way as it would instruct a boiler to deliver heat. The secret to a simple system is choosing simple controls and connecting them correctly.

I have just looked at mine. The pipe exits the floor with the back of the pipe probably 10 to 15mm clear of the finished wall, The pan joins nicely with a standard 90 degree pan connector going straight from the pan into the pipe. Could not be simpler. Leave the pipe a bit long and cut to length when you have the pan and know the height of the spigit and finished floor covering in place.

I was in the town, not the city. And that is about what I paid at TP, still twice what screwy's were selling it previously.

That makes more sense. A "booze cruise to the borders" To be honest I buy most of my Whisky from Lidl, whatever they have on offer, usually have something decent for not so much money. There are some well known and not so well known distileries around here like the already mentioned Glenmorangie, Balblair, Dalmore, Teaninich, Glen Ord, Tomatin, and it's not far to Speyside. Look out for the new kid on the block, The Ardross distillery under construction 2 miles from here hoping to start production next year.

The OSB just sat in the bottom of the I beam. Does not help you though.

Probably Balblair. That's a small one that seems to sell it at a reasonable price on site. Certainly not Glenmorangie, that has over inflated tourist prices in it's visitor centre. I recall being horrified when on Islay to find the Bowmore whisky cheaper in the Coop that it was at the distilery.

Ha Ha I will have been past your house then, that was our first trip on a hired narrowboat, about 25 years ago.

Type of joist? Our ground floor has JJI joists and I cut sheets of OSB to lay in the bottom to support the insulation.

I needed some more 22mm by 19mm pipe insulation to cover the last of the pipes before the ceiling goes up. Screwfix stopped listing it except in bulk packs of 50 metres. Toolstation list it but out of stock. Went into Jewson while in town, out of stock. eventually found some in Travis Perkins, twice the price I would have paid if screweys or TS had it.

So that might make mooring a boat interesting if you were too close to the outflow, but the left hand end of your garden in the other picture looks calm, and with the piling in place probably good to moor a boat. It would be high in my list of "must haves" Which canal?

I would not have been so patient. I would have served notice to quit under the existing voluntary agreement. They might have been more willing to enter a sensible dialogue.

MVHR stays on all the time. I have a boost switch (on a timer) for showering or cooking. Some have humidistats for automatic control. UFH just like any other heating system I control from standard boiler time clock and room thermostats, so automatic. Same for heating DHW (all comes from and ASHP) PV you would have an automatic diverter that sends any excess generated PV to the sun amp. It is all pretty much automatic once set up, and not really "centralised" each bit looks after itself. Don't make it more complicated than it has to be.

Contactors are getting clumsy. I thought the dual rate meter idea was so elegant, and would be if I could find one.

Don't want anything that needs an app to read it.

No Garage / workshop space?

I am needing a dual rate electricity meter for my own use. I want to monitor the electricity consumption of my Air Source Heat Pump and want to monitor how much it is using for heating, and separately how much is us using for hot water. So I thought I can use an ordinary dual rate electricity meter. I have a 240V switched output that is only on when it's heating hot water so can use that (with a relay if needed ) to change rate on the meter. So I started looking on ebay for cheap dual rate electricity meters. This is the only one I have found so far https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electricity-Meter-Landis-Gyr-Single-Phase-2-Rate-Meter-100A-OFGEM/202431887856?epid=1627086932&hash=item2f21e179f0:g:7iQAAOSw0F9blVX0 But that is no good, that one has an inbuilt radio teleswitch so the rate switching is done at fixed times. I need the old school type where the rate switching is done by an external input. Any ideas where I might get one?

I only have one question. With a canal / riverside site like that, Where is your boat?

Just updating with some photo's Here is my bargain basement roller door in place And this was what it was all about, getting the garage / workshop organised.

Unless I missed a bit, you can't start the blame game until you find out was that valve wired wrong, or has it just failied? All we know at the moment it it is not working, but I thought it was working last year?

Wind peaked at just over 40mph with gusts to 60 just before 5PM A few tree branches down, might go firewood collecting tomorrow if I am not too late.