ProDave

It is usual for planners to want you to be able to drive onto the plot forwards, turn round, and drive out of the plot forwards. That is the purpose of the turning space. And it is normally designed to allow an ordinary car to enter and turn. Asking for space for a 7.5 metre truck to turn sounds unreasonable, I would contest that and say you are only going to provide turning for an ordinary car. The visitor parking space sounds like just 1 more space than the number of bedrooms would dictate so you don't have to park on the road, I very much doubt anyone not visiting you would use it.

Just watched last nights GD. The thing that struck me about this one, it they seem to have picked about the hardest part of the site to build on, excavating probably thousands of tons of sol to dig into the hill. Why do people do that? Is it really a case that the planners would not have allowed them to build on an easier flatter part of the site? or they perceive that to be the case?

I have mine connected on 6mm SWA on a 40A mcb (no RCD at the source in my meter box) that feeds the small CU in the caravan. Remember you don't connect a caravan to a PME earth, so I cut the armour off the cable under the 'van insulated it and just routed the inner cable up into the 'van and connected it's own earth rod.

I would keep en eye out on freecycle for someone scrapping a similar heater. In a flat we used to own, I needed a "new" storage heater because the case was looking very tatty and rusty and I wanted it to look better (for sale of the property) I ended up buying an identical heater from ebay for £10 and getting the seller to post the heater, but not the bricks and I just used the bricks from the old one. If you can't buy that insulation as a spare part, that is probably your best hope. But I still maintain if you can get the insulation slab to hold together long enough to get the front on, it will be fine, it won't go anywhere once sandwiched between the bricks and the front part of the casing.

@stevethayne It sounds like your house was originally heated with an Electricaire unit, which is a big central storage heater with a fan to blow warm air to all the rooms. They are still made, though now targeted at commercial use https://www.dimplex.co.uk/product/electricaire-r1073 The smallest one has a heat storage capacity of 73KWh and typically will run a 10KW heating element for the 7 hour off peak period to achieve that. This will give you some idea of how much heating you will need for your house in order to size the system, so you will need typically three 3KW heaters just to store enough for space heating requirements I would seriously consider changing to economy 10 which gives you 10 hours of cheap rate but delivered I believe in 3 off peak periods, so it is never so long until the next top up.

It won't be very far before you hit the bedrock there. But other places could be more challenging, e.g Ranoch moor, where the railway line literally floats on a raft over the bog.

It's an interesting fudge for a supply capacity issue, as the neutral for both supplies is strapped together (it has to be for the dual rate meter) I am sure it would not be installed like that now. I have heard of, but never seen a summation supply to give greater capacity, but never one supply for normal loads, and one for off peak loads. As there is only 1 meter, there will only be 1 MPAN and 1 standing charge I would expect. Lets hope it does not cause too much confusion when getting the supply altered for the new build.

That was another house who's build cost far exceeds it's market value. There is a lot of very solid rock, and peat bog on Harris, but no gravel quarry that I know of. About £99 to get a car across the Minch, a lo more for a lorry.

Very strange supply arangement there. Can we have a picture more square on to the two supply heads and showing what happens above the top one please. It does look like the top supply just feeds the off peak. Were there an unusually large number of storage heaters perhaps? Get one removed and just 1 supply left for the new build. And in the mean time, be careful of that contactor in a metal box to the left missing it's lid and exposing live terminals.

Actually what I am trying to achieve is very similar. In my case it is to house the amplifier for the surround sound system, and the front speakers for it. I have already set a box or "pocket" into the wall so the front of the pocket will be flush with the finished wall, but the surround sound amp is deeper than I can accomodate, so there will be an additional shelf in front of that, and extending wider than the pocket. It is how to attach this shelf without big clunky looking brackets. A bit more searching has found these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-4-Concealed-Shelf-Supports-Metal-Brackets-Floating-Hidden-Masonry-Walls/273035824638?hash=item3f92340dfe:m:mtAhGdc51vpD3fc6c_o7tLw 9mm diameter bar, so would probably drill a 10mm hole in the shelves, These are intended tor masonry, but looking at the picture it looks as though the bit that goes into the wall is in fact a threaded rod and rawl plug arrangement, so remove the rawl plug bit and it looks like a threaded rod that could screw into the wood.

It's not quite that simple (it never is) The shelves I am using are a lot thinner, 19mm, to match with something else. So I can't buy a packaged solution, I am trying to make my own solution to suit what I am using as a shelf.

I am planning the big flat screen tv mounting arangement, and need to fix a shelf to the wall just under the tv for a few things to sit on, nothing heavy, so want this to be a "floating shelf" i.e no visible fixings. Searching for brackets the best I have come up with so far is this sort of thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOATING-SHELF-BRACKETS-CONCEALED-HIDDEN-SUPPORT-SCREW-MOUNTING-PLATE-4-SIZES/122922468858?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3Db24d56bba48a4dacb055152d9692ed71%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D181248545052%26itm%3D122922468858&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I could fix those to the wall before the plasterboard goes on, so all that sticks out is the round bar and drill matching holes in the shelves. Ideally I would like something with a smaller bar, that one is 12mm diameter and the shelves are only 19mm thick. Alternatively something similar but with a flat bar that the shelf just sits on, not quite "floating" but discrete. Any ideas?

And the smaller cable to the right is your telephone cable.

OP needs to explain better, with a photo if possible.

Even with economy 7 you only need 1 cable into the house. Do you have two separate supply heads, two meters and two MPAN's? If so you will be paying 2 lots of standing charges. Was the house ever 2 houses now joined into one?

For those wanting Multi Panel, our local branch of Jewson stock it and have all the sample pieces of all the different colour and pattern options available.

What is the switch for? Has anything tripped at the CU? Oh and I have not had a bath for 2 years now. Still haven't tried out the new monster thing in the new house.

Do you really want the noise of a fan running in a living room or bedroom? I would want to see and hear one running first.

>30V N-E is virtually impossible on TNC-S as N and E are one and the same, in many supply heads the N and E terminals are in fact the same big block of brass, in others they are separate blocks of brass with a link between them. Up front 3 phase RCD just sounds like a recipe for nuisance whole house tripping. An individual 3 phase rcd for the heat pump sounds a good idea and rcbo's for things like single phase sockets circuits etc. It is beginning to sound like this is an old direct drive heat pump, rather than inverter driven? The inverter would likely have tripped in the latter.

An issue with concentric supply cables, is the outer sheath can get punctured, allowing water in and corroding the outer PEN conductor. This will go completely undetected until the PEN fails. I have seen this on a job where the DNO cut into the cable to make a joint, and water came out. If the landscaper damaged a cable that has to be repaired, what is to say he didn't bruise it in another place that is now allowing water in unseen?

Fill with concrete then cover with a wooden threshold strip.

Careful, a claim is probably in progress. I had a VERY minor car accident. Driving on a single track road, oncoming car, passing place on his side of the road, so I stopped just short of the passing place to allow him to pull in, but he didn't pull in he carried on trying to force 2 cars to pass in a single track road (remember I was starionary) and clipped wing mirrors. Mine just cracked the plastic casing, his was left hanging by the wires. He was adamant it was my fault (how?) and he was going to claim on my insurance, and proceeded to take lots of photographs. So I informed my insurance company what had happened and made it clear I was not making a claim (I glued the cracked plastic back together, it was an old car) nearly 2 years later I had a phone call to say they never received a claim from the other driver and were closing the claim down. They advised I phoned customer services as I might be due a refund. Sure enough, the 2 renewals in the intervening period had been inflated, and now the claim was closed I got £200 refunded.

The blame game cannot start until the fault is identified. If it is a DNO fault, I am absolutely sure the DNO will pay for items damaged in the home. Your insurer may be the vehicle to facilitate that as I am sure they will just pass on the claim. The danger though in going through your insurer is they will deduct the policy excess from the claim, wheras going straight to the DNO (IF it turns out to be their fault) you would likely get the full claim.

The fact he exposed the insulation board probably means one of the elements had failed and you remove the front of the internal box and take out the front row of bricks to get at the element. The slab of insulation is encases in some form of woven material that goes very brittle and cracks. As long as you have not been careless and crumbled the insulation inside, then just carefully put it back and it will be fine. It's not going anywhere once it is all re assembled. There is no risk as it's not asbestos in a heater that recent.

I worked for a while with some German Joiners, who wore their traditional uniforms and told me a lot about their training, including a lot of travel. Very different to what happens here.