ProDave

That's neat that is. Well done.

I will counter this. There are in fact only a few non load bearing internal walls. I built all of them myself first, before the floor went down or the ceiling went up. so yes a lot more cutting of floor boards and plasterboard and more dwangs to catch the edges. But nothing creaks or groans. As an electrician I HATE it when the joiner wants the ceiling up before the internal walls go in. It usually ends up asking them to mark where the wall will be so I can leave cables hanging out of the ceiling. Then the wall arrives and it is not where marked, so you have to cut holes in the ceiling to thread the cables out where they really should be. It always ends up as a dogs breakfast for everyone, all for the sake of not cutting the plasterboard edges.

Yes a combi sops heating the heating when it is heating water. Inmost houses you would not even notice that has happened. Personally I am not a fan of a combi boiler but I do like a good shower, and I have been in enough houses with a poor combi boiler where the shower goes cold if someone else turns a hot tap on.

The white one is ceramic and is an HRC (High Rupture Current) fuse which means it can interrupt a high fault current without failing. The glass ones might crack or explode if the fault current was that high.

Here is my suggestion. I hate, as in really really hate, flat roofs. To take the small gable away, and make it a big flat roof I think would look just wrong. How about make the whole lot over both dormers a low pitched sloping roof, sloping from the existing ridge down to the gable edges. It will be too low for tiles but something like box profile or standing seam would do it. I would strip it all bare, replace any all the rotten wood and re frame it with decent insulation and put the pitched roof on. I wouldn't want to attempt that without scaffold.

So where is the Oops? Looks like you have purchased a decent quality kitchen for a good price, so what's oops about that?

I doubt the space over a single garage is big enough. double garage perhaps.

So this is all about access and parking to the REAR of your house? I would demolish the southern half of the garage, leaving a clear driveway through to the end of your existing garden, where you can make parking / garaging as you want. Alternatively a brick wall down the centre to divide it into 2 garages and put a garage door in the back wall of the half you are keeping so you can if you wish drive straight through. you could even extend your half to a double length garage. Then sell on the bungalow with little more than a tidy up with a single garage.

Assuming you are using 25mm mdpe, it won't get damaged by burying it directly. It's used for most incoming water supplies with little more than a bit of sand to protect it from any stones in the ground.

T2A usually means time lag. So yes it is the right fuse. So 3 fuses have blown. Time to look for the fault that is causing them to blow. Is that leaking "Y valve" (I assume you mean 3 port motorised valve?) leaking such that any electrical parts of it are getting wet? Or the water dripping on any other electrical items?

I would get up a ladder with a slow running hose pipe to see where it is getting in. Starting above the staining above that window.

If it has to be a fire rated door, how is an individual chippy going to certify it as a fire door if he makes it from scratch? Surely it has to be bought as a fire door and installed to manufacturers instructions.

Why does the rainwater harvesting tank overflow need pumping and what can't that be in 110mm?

I am afraid I am a butcher when it comes to gardens. I don't have the time or inclination for flower beds and weeding them. I generally only have 3 gardening tools, a mower, a strimmer and a chain saw. At the last house we had a vegetable plot, but that too needed constant weeding, and the quality of what we produced disappointing, mainly due to the poor soil and high water table, even making it as a raised bed it was nearly always too wet. But the lawn has been mowed and trimmed a lot more regularly this year than most. I do miss the well drained light soil we had when down south, almost anything would grow in that.

Hi and welcome. Have you considered rebuilding the bungalow as your forever home and selling your existing one?

Ask for a full quote. that will give you all the prices. That will need to be a large cable for that run, something like Wavecon 95. I have never seen accurate prices but it is about £50 per metre, so there is likely to be £6500 worth of cable. You present house has a single transformer just for your one house. That will likely need to be swapped for a bigger transformer.

Post the whole quote. Is a new transformer needed for example?

At least one power cable and one control cable. It is very much dependant on make. I have a 50mm duct through my wall. Two 20mm conduits pass through that, one for power and one for control cables.

I would question everything. Ask WHY OR have subcontracted it? Ask about the £3000 alloctaed to each house? If it just has to cross the road straight into a cabinet, £3000 should cover that if they are too stubborn to share a trench with other utilities. Even start from scratch and talk directly to BT about a new connection? What most of us found is OR are a terribly hard company to deal with, but when you finally get their attention, the local guy on the ground is really helpful and once you have his contact details to deal with him directly things work a whole lot better.

What part of the UK are you? I have never heard of Kelly communications. Normally if you are getting BT to install a line, you pay a modest connection fee of about £56 and that covers anything. You normally only get charged by Open Reach if the cost of the connection exceeds £3000 which is the amount allocated for each new connection.

Ignoring heating and hot water, we use typically 60=70kWh per week powering "stuff" Which is a one word way of saying the washing machine, the dishwasher, the tumble dryer, the fridge freezer, the televisions, computers, lights, vacuum cleaners and anything else you care to mention. We use a lot more powering "stuff" than we do heating the house and the hot water. If you could store 6kWh in batteries that could pretty much eliminate what "stuff" uses in the summer. Instead without batteries I just use the big appliances in the daytime to self use the solar PV generation and that, plus dumping excess to hot water, uses up almost all we generate.

Since when did open reach charge for a survey? they did not here. Our water, electricty and telephone all had to cross a single track road. the cheapest way to achieve that was get the road up once, for the water connection and before the road was closed in went a black duct for electricity and a grey duct for telaphone ("Duct 56") Your OR guy should have free issued you with any cable and duct they need. So while the road is up just the once all you need goes in. you then bury the cable from there to your house again with the duct they provide if they want it in duct. Then when BT come to connect they just have to complete the cabling from the other side of the road. It is shocking how the utilities do not coordinate with each other at all and you have to sometimes be a little creative with your thinking to make things work. P.S that all reminds me about a very old black and white silent movie about a building site, where indeed on 3 consecutive days, each of the utilities came and dug up the road and re layed it, only for the next utility to come the next day and dig up the exact same spot......

This suggests that after 12 months, building control cannot enforce building regulations compliance https://hoa.org.uk/services/ask-an-expert-2/ask-an-expert-i-am-selling-questions/selling-without-building-regulations/ They can issue a dangerous building notice, but it would have to be in a pretty bad state for that. If it looks solid and is showing no sign of falling down, I suspect you have nothing to worry about. Just don't go asking building control to look at it.

If you are going to hang heavy things like shelves, then you want those fixed into solid wood. Think ahead and before you fit the plasterboard, work out where shelving goes and make sure you install plenty of noggins / dwangs to screw through the plasterboard and into.

I would still delete loop 1-2 in the hall and just space out the rest of the pipes that are passing through the hall on their way to other places.