ProDave

Just soil,. all the rubbish stony subsoil mostly.

ASP6 Here it is going into the ground One thing I liked compared to some others is the legs for it to stand on when you lower it in the hole,. and that "ring" around the base, you concrete in to above that level to anchor it into the ground. And this is what it looks like all finished. The big green lid with the vent is the housing for the blower pump. the small screw on green lid at the right is where you insert the hose to pump it out.

I used ours on Saturday. It had been quite dry here for a while, dry enough for the leaves not to be stuck to the ground this year so they blew well. 2 years since being started (it didn't get used last year) and it was somewhat reluctant to rev to start with but it cleared after a while, no doubt the usual small engine / stale petrol problem. Ours must be even cheaper, it is not encumbered by strange safety cutout switches. You start the engine and the fan blows. That is it.

We have a 5M span with just posi joists and a strong back and it is fine, but I sense it is a big step up from that to 6M

22mm copper pipe probably 20m long in total. I don't think the length of the pipe is contributing to my spurious CH14 errors, but the length of pipe did force me to fit a second pump to achieve enough flow rate to get the thing working in the first place.

Line Out is a fixed level output. you would use that with a proper surround sound system that has it's own volume control. Using the headphone out, the level is variable using the tv's own volume control on it's own remote control. Hint: I use a sky remote control to operate my tv as that can be programmed to control the tv AND the surround sound system so I can do everything with one remote rather than 2 or more.

No. It's got a matt brushed finish that seems to resist scratches showing, unlike some "shiny" SS sinks.

Here is mine Bare sink being offered up for size And all finished mounted in the granite It's a Lamona sink from Howdens. I preferred this one that had the half bowl the same depth as the full bowl, so you just have a rectangular hole in the worktop. That's also a Lamona boiling water tap also from Howdens.

No 1 provide an air intake path for the stove so it is not sucking air in through all the cracks. How old is the house? who built it?

Our supply is technically only rated at 12kVA but is still has the same 100A fuse and 35mm cable feeding it as any other house.

I haven't checked my own flow meter for a while but it is not something you can check quickly when you get one of these short bursts followed by a trip. If I was serious about debugging LG's creation, I would have something data logging recording the output of the invuilt flow switch, together with demand inputs and other outputs like pump on and motorised valve commands. It looks like sometimes it does not allow the 10 second window to achieve the correct flow rate and for some reason decides there is a flow rate error and trips in very much under 10 seconds.

If I had been in charge of a product that was showing an infrequent glitch but in a very well defined way, I would recognise that actually finding the issue was going to be difficult. Therefore I would simply re design that part of the unit so it attempts to do the same logic, but make some changes to the hardware and in particular re write that bit of software from scratch. Then put the modified version out to customers machines who have had problems. I also take issue with this being one of the few faults that needs a power cycle to reset it. Perhaps just reset and try again after an hour is all the fix that is needed? If there is a genuine flow issue it would trip again with no harm done, but if it had tripped due to a glitch, resetting after a time delay to allow it to restart automatically would solve the issue for most users. I keep hoping I can find a way to detect this fault condition, in which case I could use that to instigate a power off reset. LG just denied there was ever an issue and simply said my pipework is too long and there is not enough flow and it's an installation issue.

It should only be liquid exiting so there is not the usual concern of "solids separating" on a normal drain run. What I found was building control had absolutely no interest in checking the outflow pipework. but probably wise to run the design past them. I would want rodding access less than 45 metres or you will want a lot of rods if you ever do get a blockage.

One advantage of being in the country, is the neighbours are far enough away for their wifi to be completely out of range.

How can you demonstrate a fault that happens once in a blue moon? It can go months without tripping, then one day, like today it will trip. Do you expect them to take up residence on a camp bed in the plant room? But I know I am not the only one to have this issue so you would have thought they would have fixed it with perhaps updated software or a new control board?

Treat the outflow like any other drain run, provision for rodding at intervals inspection chambers etc and at any change of direction. I have the conder if you need any specific questions.

Another small bit of information about the elusive spurious CH14 errors. Today I witnessed a slightly different spurious CH14. I was in my office which happens to be the room with the hot water cylinder. I heard the pump start up and the motorised valve for the HW cylinder open, but it only remained on for about a second or 2 before turning off again, barely long enough for the motorised valve to open fully. The operation as explained to me by LG is the unit is supposed to start up and give 10 seconds for the flow rate to meet requirements and if not it will shut down with the CH14 error. Once more it is not staying on long enough to achieve that. But this is the first time I have witnessed this spurious behaviour when trying to start DHW heating. Every other time it has been a short burst of space heating that has tripped it. This has slightly changed my understanding of what was happening. I had previously thought it was incorrectly registering a very short transient heat demand via the thermostat input which is why I put effort into filtering the thermostat input. Having witnessed the same behaviour when it calls for heat to the DHW tank I no longer believe that is the case. Instead I think the issue is simply that sometimes when there is a heat demand, it simply does not wait the 10 seconds it should to give time for the motorised valves to open and the pump to get up to speed. Instead it decides in a very much shorter time that the required flow rate has not been met and hence it trips with the CH14 error. This gets me no nearer to a fix. I am now resigned to the fact it will never get fixed. LG don't seem bothered having products out in the field with faulty software and don't seemed bothered by people like me typing their findings that anyone can read and that might influence their decision to buy an LG heat pump. For now the only work around is the mechanical timer to power down the unit in the morning and re boot it, to at least guarantee it will start up in the morning to heat the house. If it trips at other times of day, like it did just now, it relies on me noticing that something is not working and manually re booting it.

Yes a buffer tank would make it easier / more dependable to achieve the flow rates. I don't have one. If you are paying for a system to be supplied and installed, then any issues you have land firmly back with the installer to sort out. Not a luxury you have when you buy a cheap end of line old model and self install it.

My take on Cat 5 is I ran plenty around the house to all rooms, but so far only one is actually in use (wired ethernet to desktop computer) the rest are "spare". So I have not terminated any or even cut back box holes for them. Instead they are all coiled up in know locations in the service void so when a use for them appears. I can cut a back box hole in the plasterboard and fit a socket. Same with phone points. With cordless phones we only use one phone point, yet every room has a phone cable just sat in the service void should we wish to use it. Some rooms have spare tv cables as well just in case we want the tv in a different place. Guess where those cables are waiting for possible use one day........

I am surprised the quotes vary so much. Is that them doing all the work? If you are digging trenches on your land then I would expect the quotes to vary by little more than the cost of the extra 75M of cable. How about a half way house, still go for an outside kiosk but closer to the house so the cable you supply is shorter and hence smaller, try and get to within 25M of the house?

The UFH temperature should be regulated by a blending valve on the manifold, not by turning down the boiler temperature. You really want to run UFH for longer at a lower temperature. i.e run it all day but at a lower temperature. That should not incrrease fuel usage, if it's been done right room thermostats will turn the heating off when the rooms reach the required temperature.

If it's a hot tap, there should be an isolating valve on the output of the hot water tank. You can also get a "stuck plunger" in some old taps.

We didn't move into our 'van until the house shell was up. the washing machine was set up in the house as was a desk and my office.

Get it on the market now, while we have the stamp duty holiday and the market is buoyant. The market will likely slow right down after that. It always does when some government intervention creates an artificial short term boom.

If it's poorly designed and it's power supply does strange things if there is a bit of "noise" on the supply.