ProDave

When I did ours, I found it was important to lay them in a careful order to prevent pipes crossing over and keep them neat and tidy

Unless you want to move it, what is the point? A waste of a nice trailer that is never going to move.

I have given my answer. a 2M high fence in that position is permitted development and I believe they have correctly measured the height from the ground level it sits on. I also believe all they have done is trimmed the hedge that was trespassing on their property back to allow them to put the fence there. You seem to be looking for a dispute with your neighbour?

As the tank is heating, the water gets stirred around by convection, so it will heat the whole tank to the required temperature. The problem is as you draw water off, the water remains stratified and all that happens is the hot water moves up and cold comes in at the bottom to replace it. It is not until the hot / cold transition reaches the thermostat that it calls for heat. fitting the lower thermostat pocket at say 1/5 up the tank might be better?

The ground level is where the fence sits. The fact it happens to sit on a bit of raised land that then steps down towards the neighbours house makes no difference, so I see nothing wrong with the height. As @Russell griffiths says who can prove it is on the right boundary line or not? A strong clue is YOUR fence at the front. They put their fence entirely inside your fence, so it might be reasonable to assume it is inside their land. And it might follow it they then keep it in a straight line and constant distance from the hedge all the way along, they were making a reasonable stab at the correct boundary line. It is also reasonable to trim your hedge if it is overhanging their land. From your side, nothing has changed, you still have your hedge, your garden has not got smaller. All that has changed is the hedge is a bit thinner and you can see the back of a new fence. I am sure the hedge will thicken up again and hide it.

The times we have ran out of water is when both the ladies have showers in quick succession without re heat time between and when they are both hair wash showers that's when it can run out. I measured the shower flow at >15L per minute on full flow so that's about half an hour to empty the tank. Now I cannot personally imagine what one could do for 15 minutes in a shower, that's obviously a lady thing (with long hair) I think if you add in the temperature probe in my tank is about 1/3 the way up the tank, so the tank could be only just over 2/3 full and it would not be calling for heat so you might only have 200L of hot water sitting there. Perhaps a lesson from this is specify the thermostat pocket lower down? As regards flow rate, no problems. If I could do one thing differently, I would NOT have fitted full bore isolator valves on the showers, I would have fitted normal ones to slow the shower flow slightly.

My 300L tank and 5kW ASHP can take 90 minutes to heat from cold. Re heat from partial depletion is ovbiously less. I "solved" the ran out of hot water and long re heat issue by fitting a 10kW modulating Steibel Eltron water heater in series with the output. Normally it does nothing and the HW just passes through, but if the tank is depleted it takes over and at least gives you some hot water. It has "saved the day" a few times.

What has drawn you to 400L? What is your heat source?

I think I just answered this in another place, so I post the same reply here. You obviously did not take advice from a planning professional or you ignored it. You now have to make changes and re submit. The visibility thing, the visibility distances should be measured from a point I think (check) 2.1 metres back from the road edge and 1.2 metres above ground, i.e. about where the drivers head would be in the driving seat trying to look to see if it is safe to exit. That hedge will have to go to make a tapered visibility splay to meet the requrements, and you will need a turning space to enter forwards, turn around and exit forwards. You will need to make a tapered layby to the highways specification so you can park in your layby e.g if you need to get out and open a gate. Find all these details for your local area so you can incorporate them into your modified plans. The size and style issues need to be addressed by making the building match the scale and style of surrounding properties, OR make it a totally different contemporary design that will be judged on it's merits. It is normal in the first instance to apply for outline planning permission where you are just establishing the principle that you can build, without at that stage finalising the design of the house. You will have another hurdle if you do get PP. You cannot now build within 6 metres of an overhead power line, so expect to have to pay to have the power lines across the front of that plot buried underground.

That is right at the bottom of the cost range. I am expecting to complete for £1000 per sq metre in the Highlands, where labour us cheaper and I have done 5 years of work on the build doing virtually everything since the very basic shell was erected, so you will need to do a LOT yourselves to get to that target.

I don't see anything done wrong there, the hedge will thicken out again, though from what little I can see in the pictures it seems pretty thin at ground level.

I am fuming at todays attempts at ordering "Black Friday deals" The world has indeed gone mad.

Just finishing off this thread with some figures, since I was playing with the accounts today. The total cost of all the oak that I bought was £456.49 which averages out at £41.49 per door. Before you all say how cheap that was, this is only for the frames and door stop, not the architrave (that's about another £40 per door) and remember the basic carcase of the door frame for the upstairs doors was left over engineered floor planks so they were not costed.

Inward is more traditional BUT the basic design is more prone to wind driven rain leaking in. Outward is inherently less prone to wind driven rain getting in, BUT is less traditional and you need to be holding on tight to the door handle if you open it on a very windy day!!!!

In our bathrooms, the walls done with multipanel go right down to the floor and sealed to the floor. The few plasterboarded walls have strips of floor tile cut and laid as tile skirting.

I am curious to know why you went up a ladder and cut the branches off, a dangerous operation? When I felled my trees, I just felled the tree whole, and then cut it up on the ground. It looks like you had room to do that.

That box is some form of EMC filter. It does nothing to the voltage. So just replace the driver with one that does not have it. Hopefully the new one will have all the EMC filtering it needs built in.

So how much bandwidth does your security camera actually need then? I can stream boradcast tv over 3mbps so I would not expect a security camera to use even as much as that?

Will those cascade water down the outside (or inside) of the cladding?

Hi and welcome. As I understand it an existing septic tank that discharges to a land soakaway probably does not need any updating. It is only septic tanks that discharge to a watercourse that must be replaced by a treatment plant.

The flexi's that came with my basin tap don't even have a nut on them, the instructions say "finger tight" and they are not leaking. So don't over tighten them. Perhaps the idea is when you fit the first, short one, there is just enough room to get get a bent spanner in there to tighten it, then fit the second longer one. But AGREED it would be so much easier to either give you two long ones, or don't recess the bloody things up there in the first place. I am more curious how you clamp the tap into it's hole? There seems to be no normal tapped hole for a fixing stud?

Now I have had a better read, add to the list of "issues" that they are frameless, so mounting them will present a whole lot of challenges.

Those are smaller than typically used for domestic solar pv but I see no reason why not to get 40 of them or perhaps 42, for a 3.8 / 4kWp system. for a cost of £400 Probably best suited to a ground mount scheme, they might look a bit odd with such small panels on a roof.

I don't see thermal blending valves on those UFH manifolds. How are they regulating the water temperature? Are they relying on the ASHP to deliver water at the required temperature?

I haven't looked them up but I bet they are solid state not relay output and there is just enough leakage on an output that is "off" to upset the controller. connect ALL the actuators even if not physically in place and I bet that problem will go away.