ProDave

Mine is timber frame so different, but I would never want to go back to the old ways of plaster on the hard where you are committed to getting all your switches etc exactly right so early on and if you want to change or add something it's a messy horrible job. It's one of the things I liked when I moved to Scotland where most houses are timber frame, and end to the task of chasing wires into a solid wall.

Replacement actuators are readily available, here is just one random example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rotex-Actuator-Ufh-Sat-8-Actuator-for-Rmx-Rmv-175145/223886639408?epid=9036438063&hash=item3420af0130:g:tKQAAOSw-MpeMvIr TIP: Buy ones similar to that link where the part that screws onto the manifold is a metal ring. Avoid the ones where a plastic ring screws onto the manifold and the actuator then clips onto that plastic ring, they are imho rubbish.

Then if you are not seeing any voltage drop either it's a compressor issue. Is the cut off pressure set too high? Is the oil in the compressor okay?

My "best" farm one was main house rcd tripping. Traced it to a caravan lead plugged into a socket, out of the window across a yard. Half way across it joined to a second caravan lead eventually to the caravan that some farm hand was living in. The joint between the 2 leads was underwater in a puddle.

They would not normally, it was just an experiment I did as I like to know how things work.

Can you clarify WHAT is "tripping out"? Farm electrics are legendary, and not usually in a good way.

I like Click Mode. They are cheap price, but very well made, one of the best. I have never been bothered personally about a pair of honest fixing screws. you can put the plastic caps on to "hide" them but I rarely bother.

I would not over think it. I would connect your heat demand to thermostat 1 input and try it. If you find the ASHP turns on when the UFH is off and vice versa you will need to change DIP switch 2-1

Ah my pet hate, where I have to slide a washing machine out to get to the plug to pat test it. Then you find the kitchen floor was done after the WM went in so there is a step up,. and the floor is only cheap lino and liable to tear at any minute. Oh the joys.

My LG ASHP has a terminal for an ordinary room thermostat. When that is activated, the HP starts up in heating mode, with the heating water delivered at the temperature set for heating. It also has a terminal labelled "cooling" give that the same 240V from a cooling thermostat and the HP will start up in cooling mode delivering chilled water at whatever temperature it says in the setup. And by experiment if you activate both, cooling takes priority and it starts in cooling mode. That behaviour will vary from one make to another no doubt.

Which repointing the joint will not do, that will just draw attention to it and make them suspicious. The best thing for a surveyor is leave it alone so he can SEE the joint is old and there is no movement or cracking, and an explanation of how the building changed many years ago to leave a joint like that.

Does that mean a sale fell through because a survey stopped someone getting a mortgage?

One thing that would smarten it up and to a small extend "hide" the obvious joint is paint the end wall white to match the front. If the front is render, not just paint, then render the end wall would certainly hide the issues.

I don't think much of the pipework coming out of the tundish..........

Are you sure "demand control input" is what you want? I would have thought "room thermostat" was a more likely candidate, after all the heat demand from the UFH controller is like a global thermostat output. I don't know enough about the Ecodan to know the answer to that. You probably also have to change some settings to enable each of these inputs to work.

Is that "join" within your property or on the boundary with next door? Is that your front or back wall or end wall? Just trying to visualise better.

What is your typical annual usage of oil? that would let us work out you actual real world heating needs and see if an ASHP is viable on it's own.

I would love to know what happened there. the "join" ends 2/3 of the way up. Above that the bricks are bonded across properly. It's like a small building got extended to the side and over the top? How do you know it's going to be an issue in surveys if there is no sign of movement? Any attempt to cover it up would just be seen as trying to hide a fault.

That might get more complicated. My own LG heat pump deals with the immersion heater differently by having a "sanitary water controller" which is a posh name for a tin box containing a contactor that switches the immersion heater. yours has the switching built in. By far the simplest if you have not got it yet would be get an extra immersion heater fitted when you order your tank and keep them separate. Worst case you might have to do some switching to isolate the immersion from the ASHP for the solar PV diverter. Or do as I did take the view with mains water and an unvented tank you don't need to to legionairs cycles so disable that function and just use the immersion for the solar PV diverter.

Yes that would be fine.

The modern way is you do NOT put your sockets into the wall, you create a battened service void that lets you run cables inside the building envelope without disturbing it's air tightness etc and fit sockets into the plasterboard that covers those battens. So much easier to make alterations or add extra sockets.

Are you sure they do not wrap around to form a loop, it looks like the notched ends would interlock together. they wouldn't match the circumference of one of the vent pipes if you did that would they?

I think I added the explanation to that as an edit after you quoted my original post.

The easiest way to achieve this might be to investigate the Grant Hybrid combined oil / ASHP though that might be an expensive sollution? You could fit a single ASHP and have a changeover scheme, that could either be manual valves or more automated. That largely depends on who is doing it and their knowledge, I doubt you will find many people who routinely combine 2 different heat sources.

Okay you have the 9kW version so the main supply cable needs to be at least 4mm, preferably 6mm fed from a 32A mcb in the CU with a 32A waterproof rotary lockable isolator in the wall by the heat pump. there is also a secondary power supply rated at 16A which I would wire in 2.5mm Referring to page 3 the Panasonic controller and tank temperature probe are pre made cable assemblies that should just plug in. The immersion heater in your hot water tank connects by a 3 core I would use 2.5mm cable though 1.5mm would do. Then at the bottom there are some valve connections. I found the easiest way to connect things like that is with a length of 0.75mm multicore control cable and just bring one multicore cable from the heat pump to a witing centre in the house where the pumps and valves are. Personally I would use a 10 core control cable and connect all the terminals on the bottom of that PCB including the ones not shown as used. There is no other power needed for the valves and pumps, they literally connect to the PCB as shown and all power they need is sourced from that pcb. This is a vitrually identical setup to my own LG unit where the heat pump controls the valves and pumps in much the same way. The mention of local switches is just because they are controlled remotely and may power up at any time, so they are suggesting local isolation for anyone working on them. Personally I took the view that it is no different to a normal central heating pump that may start under the control of a time clock or thermostat at any time and anyone with half a brain working on the pump would turn off the whole heating system at the CU. to elaborate on the immersion heater. The immersion heater power is the second power supply, the 16A 1, so at the CU label that "immersion heater" with a note (via ASHP) then you have the cable from the ASHP to the immersion heater in your hot water tank, which will have it's own local isolation switch. the reason it is wired like this, is so the ASHP can control the immersion heater either as a backup source, or for periodic legionairs cycles to heat the water much hotter at intervals.