ProDave

Yes plenty of us here have installed a treatment plant. I think building regs would demand for a 6 bedroom house you install an 8 or 9 person tank. I think we are unanimous on this forum that none of us would install a treatment plant that works on having moving mechanical parts down in the smelly stuff, you really don't want the job of fixing those when they go wrong. Instead most of us would recommend you install the type that works with an air blower to agitate and process the waste. Such as the BioPure, Vortex, conder (that's the one i have) Graff and no doubt a few others.

I am so far only seeing one motorised valve in the last picture, the little silver box hiding behind the Wilo pump. Do those 2 pipes leading off to the right from it go to the UFH manifold? If so that is the (one of the?) heating motorised valves. Can you follow the cable from that motorised valve to a junction box and do you have any electrical test equipment like a multimeter?

I suspect you have 2 issues here: 1) It's not the best heat pump (being tactful) not being inverter driven it will be all or nothing and it will be noisy. It does not appear to be ageing well. I wonder of you are close to the sea? 2) the incorrect heating operation I suspect is a controls issue. Can you show us some inside pictures, inside the house that is, not inside the heat pump. There will likely be a water pump and a couple of motorised valves somewhere. I suspect it is a motorised valve that has failed and not giving a "call for heat" when the heating is demanded on it's own.

Can you be a bit more descriptive and include some pictures? e.g "The pump sounds like a tractor and is rusting to bits" Are we talking about the actual outdoor part of the ASHP? or a water circulating pump in the house? A quick look at the manual shows yours is not inverter driven, so when running it will be on at full speed, or off, with nothing in between,

One thing to stress at your next meeting is your proposed ASHP is a low power inverter driven heat pump with SOFT START. It is only the older "direct on line" start heat pumps that have a very high start current that can cause the lights to dim when they start up. Or (cough) tell them you have decided to fit a gas boiler instead?

I think you need a site meeting with someone technical to discuss all the options and to discuss your low energy needs etc to try and find a sollution. In our case, the Wavecon 95 cable was installed 17 years ago when our previous house was built. It was installed at SSE's expense due to them making a mistake in the quote, but that's another story. It runs about 200 metres down the road from the transformer and was feeding 2 houses. Our house was joined into that so a 200 metre long Wavevon 95 is hapily feeding 3 houses now. There was an "issue" when we applied for a connection that there was a capacity issue. We were only offered a 12kVA supply. We accepted as that is plenty and it came at a low cost, but the implication was if we wanted more, there would be some network upgrading to do and some bigger costs. At the time I thought the issue was the 100kVA transformer that is now feeding 8 properties, which works out at 12.5kVA available for each house and my assumption was if we wanted more they would have to fit a bigger transformer. I still have a suspicion they are trying to get you to pay most of the upgrade cost that will allow your neighbours development to be connected. I Don't suppose it will help by saying "this bloke on an internet forum has 3 houses connected to a 200 metre long wavecon 95 so it should be okay"

It's voltage drop that will dictate a big cable, not current carrying capacity.

I think they were the last one offering no standing charge for electricity.

Well file it then, just enough to go down the tube, still leaving enough flat to get a spanner on.

So take the nut and washer off, screw the adaptor on, screw the tap connector on and try and assemble it. I am sure you said the nut on the tap connector goes down the main tube?

Hold on, you have the nut on the tap there. you don't need that. Take the nut off and the washer and screw the adaptor bit straight onto the tap then it will go all the way on.

I would spin the corners off on my lathe. But a file will do, it's not as though you will see the finished thing. Of course if you had the proper supplied tap connector it would fit.

I have been reading this thread and would like to know more, purely from an academic point of view: You have tapped into some data on a "TX" pin. How the hell did you figure out what it was transmitting and in what format? hours with an oscilloscope? I bet SA don't publish that information. And once you have found what format it's transmitting, how did you work out what all the data was saying? And last question, what did you use for your monitor? I will guess a raspberry pi?

I believe not. At our previous house we had to have a vent that came up through the floor behind the stove. I think the area of the vent needs to be the same as the area of the flue, so that's quite a big hole.

If you have a stove of 5kW or more, that draws it's combustion air from the room, then you must have a vent of a certain size to let fresh air into that room. Clearly if you have gone to the trouble of making a house air tight (and installed mvhr?) you don't then want to be making a big hole to let air into the room, so a room sealed stove is pretty much essential.

That's referred to as Primary and Secondary air. and some makes of stove that claim ducted air intake that only applies to one. I can confirm our Mendip Stoves Churchill does take both primary and secondary air from the inlet duct and that appeared to be a standard fitment, not a bolt on extra kit.

Yes but I could just not pallet having to pay extra for them NOT to fit something. Someone posted a link recently to a cheap 3G roof window that appeared not to have a vent. The vents on a Velux do appear to seal quite well when shut.

+1 With a central stair well with double doors either side to the two living rooms, with the doors open the heat circulates around the whole house and some goes upstairs as well. Agreed if you have a stove in just one room with no other place for the heat to usefully go, then you would overheat a single room quickly.

No that's just heating. DHW is about half that. I have metering set up so it records electricity used in DHW mode separate to electricity used in heating mode.

They do fail, one at our old house failed at 15 years old but I managed to find an exact replacement.

I am not self sufficient in wood, I have to scavenge and collect a lot of it. The cold winter we were in the static caravan we had a stove in that and it hardly went out from November to March. Keeping it fed with wood was a challenge and we burned coal over night. But it is nice to have the stove knowing each time I light it, that's less electricity the HP will use.

Ah yes, if I lit the stove every day I would not need the heat pump.

But just because the boiler water was too hot, the output from the blending valve should not have been so hot. I would question if the blending valve is faulty?

That is just the metered electricity to power the heat pump in heating mode. I actually generate more with my solar PV in a year than I use heating the house, but of course it does not generate enough in the winter. I am genuinely surprised if you can maintain 18 degrees inside with no heating? How are you heating your house? the average outside temperature here is presently about 6 degrees. There is no way it would be comfortable with no heating.

Unplug the power cord from the pump and check with a couple of probes that it really is getting power.