ProDave

Yes that would be fine.

The modern way is you do NOT put your sockets into the wall, you create a battened service void that lets you run cables inside the building envelope without disturbing it's air tightness etc and fit sockets into the plasterboard that covers those battens. So much easier to make alterations or add extra sockets.

Are you sure they do not wrap around to form a loop, it looks like the notched ends would interlock together. they wouldn't match the circumference of one of the vent pipes if you did that would they?

I think I added the explanation to that as an edit after you quoted my original post.

The easiest way to achieve this might be to investigate the Grant Hybrid combined oil / ASHP though that might be an expensive sollution? You could fit a single ASHP and have a changeover scheme, that could either be manual valves or more automated. That largely depends on who is doing it and their knowledge, I doubt you will find many people who routinely combine 2 different heat sources.

Okay you have the 9kW version so the main supply cable needs to be at least 4mm, preferably 6mm fed from a 32A mcb in the CU with a 32A waterproof rotary lockable isolator in the wall by the heat pump. there is also a secondary power supply rated at 16A which I would wire in 2.5mm Referring to page 3 the Panasonic controller and tank temperature probe are pre made cable assemblies that should just plug in. The immersion heater in your hot water tank connects by a 3 core I would use 2.5mm cable though 1.5mm would do. Then at the bottom there are some valve connections. I found the easiest way to connect things like that is with a length of 0.75mm multicore control cable and just bring one multicore cable from the heat pump to a witing centre in the house where the pumps and valves are. Personally I would use a 10 core control cable and connect all the terminals on the bottom of that PCB including the ones not shown as used. There is no other power needed for the valves and pumps, they literally connect to the PCB as shown and all power they need is sourced from that pcb. This is a vitrually identical setup to my own LG unit where the heat pump controls the valves and pumps in much the same way. The mention of local switches is just because they are controlled remotely and may power up at any time, so they are suggesting local isolation for anyone working on them. Personally I took the view that it is no different to a normal central heating pump that may start under the control of a time clock or thermostat at any time and anyone with half a brain working on the pump would turn off the whole heating system at the CU. to elaborate on the immersion heater. The immersion heater power is the second power supply, the 16A 1, so at the CU label that "immersion heater" with a note (via ASHP) then you have the cable from the ASHP to the immersion heater in your hot water tank, which will have it's own local isolation switch. the reason it is wired like this, is so the ASHP can control the immersion heater either as a backup source, or for periodic legionairs cycles to heat the water much hotter at intervals.

The No 1 question is how much insulation did you put under the floor before laying the UFH? It sounds like it is an old house with little insulation so whatever you do will have to work with that. Have you tried running it 24/7 at a lower water temperature? Then you can play with the water temperature to find the optimum temperature to keep the heating running most of the time, i.e. the minimum temperature it can get away with and still get enough heat into the house. What is heating the UFH?

My static is 1M from my boundary. The Guidance note from Highland council is just clarifying building regs, confirming that you can build a portable building that complies with the definition of a "caravan" (which it makes clear does not even mean it has to be on wheels) and it can be exempt from building regulations. This is quite separate to the question of do you need planning permission for it.

So when the fan switch is ON the lights flash, but when the fan isolator is OFF the lights behave normally? You are getting leakage from the switched L of the timer fan circuit. If you have fan and light on a separate switch I would disconnect the timer, it's not needed.

I believe permitted development rules for sheds, caravans etc only apply to the garden ground associated with your house. A whole different set of rules apply to what you can do on agricultural land and I am not up to speed on those.

Just to be clear, are the spotlights flashing when OFF and on normally when on? And are they LED lights?

If it's use is incidental to the main house it is permitted development. Are you a croft? If so I believe that bestows some rights to caravans as well.

Well if bleeding and cleaning the end of the flame sensor does not fix it would get it properly serviced. 5 years is a long time for a burner jet.

When was the last time it was properly serviced? It could be burning badly with a worn jet or just badly in need of adjustment?

Well at least try bleeding the oil line again and check the flame sensor. both are so easy to check.

When it starts, you should first hear the fan start, then another noise as the oil pump starts, then a repeated clicking like a tazer going off and then the roar of the flame. If the sensor does not detect the flame within a certain number of seconds it will all shut down and lock out.

You are looking for a black flying lead that plugs into a hole and when you withdraw it you will see a sensor like this If you are hearing the flame roar, but the sensor is not seeing it, it is either just covered with soot at the end or it's faulty.

Try bleeding it again. Check the flame sensor. This is a plug in sensor who's job is to see the flame, I think it's little more than a photocell. A common failure is the lens on the end of the sensor is sooted up so it won't see the flame and just needs a wipe to clean it. Do you hear a roar of the flame starting up? if not could be the ignitor.

I am pretty sure that is the same people I bought a load from who also sell on ebay which I found a convenient way to buy it.

We all know by the time the bathrooms are done and the dormer has been rebuilt, they will decide to knockdown ad rebuild........

Look on the bright side. At least now you can get the pipe falling away from the pan. Now I am not usually a betting man, but I will wager this will NOT be complete before Christmas. I am not yet convinced this thread will rival the length of the "boxing in" thread. BUT. Looking at all that space in the loft. I would fit a back to wall pan and concealed cistern in the loft.

Yes I am the first to agree they are over priced, but there is otherwise no such thing as a "Normal Plot" in Oxfordshire. the reason we never built there was we could never afford a "plot" as about the only way they ever came up was a knock down and rebuild, where you were paying not far off finished house price for a plot. It wasn't until we moved up here where plots are always for sale at plot price, that we got to self build.

Because you know who has "splashed" on the towels.

Just been to measure. The WC room in our static caravan measures 690mm wide. That is definitely at the "cosy" end of the spectrum. Placing of the loo roll holder needs care so it is not in the way, and there is even a tiny wash hand basin to squeeze past on your way to the loo. The wall between the shower and WC will be fine at 100mm so will buy you a bit more "room to manoeuvrer" but why not make it a glass panel of negligible thickness?

I seem to suffer very little plaster cracking anywhere. I am convinced this is because there was quite a long time gap between the frame going up and getting to do internal finishings like plastering? I have just been round all the downstairs window reveals and they are all as crisp as when they were plastered and painted about 3 years ago.