ProDave

It's an anti spam measure. Spammers were joining the forum, making a very innocent looking post, then some time later editing the post to add their spam without being noticed.

Yes I used the Impey trays and tanking system for two wet rooms. If this is just a bathroom and not a wet room with a drain, then tanking the floor and up the walls would not actually do much. Where would the water go if there is no drain in the floor? Out under the door would be my guess?

The designer of my house said that taped OSB was okay as the air tightness layer, but I chose to also line it with a taped air tight membrane as well. Both the membrane and OSB are on the inside. It is easy to fit at bare shell time, but would be virtually impossible to fit if you later found air tightness to be an issue.

Try this, not a perfect description but it might help https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Heat-Anticipator-Operation.php Basically, when the thermostat is on and calling for heat, the little accellerator heater is on so it locally warms the inside of the thermostat just enough to overcome the hysterises of a mechanical thermostat. When the thermostat turns off, the accellearator heater turns off so the inside of the thermostat cools down and will click back on again much sooner rather than having to wait for the room to cool down by the otherwise large hysterisis temperature. the key to it working is the manufacturer has sized and positioned the accellerator heater correctly so it's heating effect exactly cancels the hysterises temperature. You need the neutral connection as the heater is connected between switched L and N . for an electronic thermostat you don't usually need a N connection.

Not if they are wired properly with a neutral connection so the inbuilt little accellerator heater operates to remove the otherwise large temperature hysterisis. Mine are working just fine to keep the rooms very close to their target temperature.

Another observation about my repair of the cheap little Chinese inverter. When testing it, I found it's output is pulsed, in very much the same way as my solar PV dump controller is. And just like that it appears the duty cycle is varied to adjust the power output. I wasn't expecting this. I guess it makes it easy to design the inverter as it only has to synthesise a simple grid sychronised output and vary the power by pulsing it on and off. I wonder if the big "proper" inverters work the same way or not?

A length of large ducting, e.g. 50mm or more, with a draw string left in place so you can pull through anything you want to.

The only reason you have to upgrade a septic tank is if it discharges to a watercourse. If the ST is working and drains to a land drain then there is no present reason why you have to replace it.

What I got from reading this was your rooms are too warm, warmer than the room thermostat is set to, and you can still feel the floor warm to walk on. This says to me the UFH loops to the rooms are not turning off when the room thermostat reaches the set temperature. You need to start by looking at the UFH manifolds (post some pictures of them?) there should be a row of flow meters. If you are lucky someone will have labelled them so you know which loop feeds which room. You need to establish if the correct room thermostat controls the correct room.

Page 2 of the linked document says "Max running current 25.3A" so it will be fine on your 100A supply. But before you commit to that model and place the order, check with the supplier that it is an inverter driven heat pump. It does not mention an inverter or variable speed operation which might suggest it does not.

It is probably long past the date that BC could take any enforcement action, even if they wanted to. Don't poke the bear and bring it to their attention. You can usually just get the vendor to put in place an indemnity policy to cover you in the unlikely event of any action, but ONLY if you have not bought it to the attention of BC. More important is ascertain by survey the condition of the property is to your satisfaction.

Yes, the BROWN to the valve should come from the heating on output of the time switch. You also have the feedback switch (grey and Orange) completely wrong. I am not entirely sure what it will do like that but it is wrong. What's the 3 core flex at the bottom? That looks odd as well wired to heating off? It needs a re think.

I would say forget these. Get yourself a Dolby 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system connected to the SPDIF Optical out from the tv. It will transform your watching. Both our main tv's have 5.1 sound systems, both obtained for free from freecycle, both with built in DVD players (nobody wants dvd players now so they throw the sound system out to replace it with a blue ray. So what that my sound system has a redundant dvd player built in?)

No, this is an rcbo Note the little "test" button, and internally it is physically bigger. Hence asking how much room there is in that fuse box. Wylex do make a "compact" rcbo but say it is not to be fitted into old fuse boxes (though nobody can present a reason why not) If it is a plastic box I would say get it changed. In theory you should be able to continue using a plastic box but so many electriacns now see as a failure you will be fighting an uphill battle to keep getting it passes, so probably best not to throw good money after bad in this case.

I fitted an electric roller door to my garage. WAY cheaper than the prices this thread is talking about, very simple DIY install, and the usable door opening is the full available opening, the track and motor etc all fit inside, without reducing the available size in any dimension. Why do they particularly want a side hinged door(s) ?

Yes possibly but not necessarilly. The issue is you have no RCD protections. And most of your circuits are protected by cartridge fuses, not mcb's. On the face of it, the stock answer is a new consumer unit, BUT it might be possible to fit rcbo's in that. At about £10 each, it's less than £100 to replace them all with rcbo's and a lot less labour. What you need to check, is the general condition of the fuse box, and is there room to fit rcbo's. Also (hard to tell) is that a metal or plastic fuse box? You will likely find other work needed like earth bonding not up to standard etc.

It sounds like the cylinder stat is in parallel with the nest not in series with it.

You see a lot of doors, particularly fire doors in offices with 2 hinges at the top. Easy to see why 2 at the top makes sense. I guess this is just "productionising" in that the doors can be hung either way up?

All I am saying is i am not up to speed with how these nest things are supposed to work. If it was working before and you have had someone fit a new cylinder then he either did not know or did not understand the Nest and has wired it as a conventional system. Normally a hot water cylinder would be controlled by a time switch and the cylinder thermostat. You need an electrician to re connect it to the Nest.

I have never quite got into the Nest things, but to put it simply if someone has connected a Nest to control the times of your hot water heating, they have done it wrong. The Hot water is working from the cylinder thermostat, so if the cylinder thermostat says the tank is too cold it puts the boiler on. all perfectly normal in a conventional setup. What are you trying to achieve with the Nest?

So is that the UFH in the bathroom working now?

A newer ASHP with an inverter would certainly be quieter, but not necessarily much more efficient. It really is a heating engineering problem you have, the same would (and quite often does) apply to a gas boiler when one of the controls has gone faulty (or never wired right in the first place. It's just that some people get bamboozled when you mention "heat pump" and claim they can't understand it. In reality, the ASHP is a magic box of tricks that will heat up the water when you give it a few commands from a programmer according to how it says in it's manual. You don't need to understand how it works internally, just read the manual, understand what signals it is expecting and see which one is missing, then investigate to find out why.

I think it is time you tried to get a local electrician. And that needs to be al electrician that has a good understanding of heating systems. It's a job to say if the heating is not coming on because something is faulty, or because it has never been wired properly at the start. What is pretty clear is your system is somewhat basic. You don't have zone control valves or a local control box on your UFH manifolds for instance. It is normal practice with UFH to have an individual thermostat in each room and a control box next to each UFH manifold to drive a row of actuator valves.

Okay can you do some careful observations please: you might need an assistant for this. Turn the heating on, and listen very carefully to see if you can hear all the motorised valves go whir whir whir then click. Let me know if they all or some can be heard to operate. You say the heating pumps come on, this bit is important, do they come on immediately you turn on the heating or is there a few second delay between turning the heating on and the pumps starting. Usually at each under floor heating manifold there is a control box associated with it. Can you find any and take a picture particularly of any make and model number and any lights they have on them?

That's looking good. All I will add, is if this is a "standard" shed, it probably just has a mineral felt roof covering. I would be replacing or over covering that with something far better like box profile steel or corrugated steel etc. Mineral felt will start leaking after not many years, horrible stuff I would never use it.