ProDave

An ASHP will do 40 degree UFH water comfortably. You size the ASHP based on the heat loss from the building. Your present gas / oil usage should give you an idea, if you can measure the usage on the coldest day in winter.

Last time I did a tiled kitchen, I left long tails on the sockets and temporarily surface mounted them. Only when I did the tiling did I cut the final socket box holes to line up with the tiling and flush mounted them.

Just make sure you document it all so the next person has a chance of understanding it.

I am missing something here. Our electricity and water was on site when the only thing there was the static caravan. All fully energised and functional.

I would work on the figure in G 65, heat loss at 25 degrees delta t. assuming you want the house at 20 degrees and it rarely gets below -5 where you are, that will be the worst case heat load on the coldest day you are likely to get. So that's a figure of 9883W Now you won't want the ASHP running 24/7 and in any case it will spend some time heating DHW so I would be looking at a minimum of a 15kW ASHP Now go and tweak U values and see how much better you can get that figure. For a comparison, I used the figure in H 65 as -10 outside is not uncommon here and my heat loss there is just under 2,5kW

Lesson for other self builders, at step 3, immediately accept the quote, pay the £3K and order the supply so it is the first thing on site even before you start building.

Back bench MP's and 1922 committee might sort it. There seemed quite a few who might take that route in the house this afternoon.

Do what you can at the build stage to reduce heating need, so lots of insulation, good air tightness, good windows, low temperature under floor heating, Unvented hot water tank (not thermal store) Then the heat source is less important, a small system boiler will do it for now, as will an ASHP. You could also swap for an ASHP later, I am not awre of a need to seek DNO approval for a retro fit. But if you have a low energy house design that only needs a small inverter driven ASHP then I really cannot see why the DNO would say no. If you want a boiler for short term I would probably go oil with a small tank, and avoid the cost of a gas connection. Choose an outdoor oil boiler and it's a relatively easy swap to an ASHP.

So that it appears to conform with regs. Ponder on that first. Alternatively can you not paint steels with a special paint to make them fireproof? again what you can't see........

That plan falls apart when the plasterboard installer moves those pesky wires out of the way so when you drill the holes, there are no wires within fishing distance of your holes. See post 4

What is this hourly recirculation?

Just how much do you expect G3 sign off to cost? I am a little unusual that I know a lot of trades, but one plumber just came and checked my pipework, connected the cold feed and tested it all and signed it off for not very much money at all.

It looks a good idea from the grid point of view but a very very very lousy idea from the car owners point of view. Something I would not allow if I had an EV, why would you want to allow extra charge discharge cycles on your battery? Obviously a question to ask when buying a used EV, has it been used V2G and if so reduce the valuation of the vehicle accordingly. Time shifting and grid storage is something the grid operator and energy providers should be funding, not expecting EV owners to dig them out of the hole they have created.

you won't do it in one fitting cascade a few and you will get there.

A whole load of offensive and dam right rude posts have been removed. Learn to behave like grown ups.

Lets hope the electrician (or you) remember exactly where the cables are, and hope the boarder did not move any of them.

Odd. I am seeing your locations. Is this only visible to staff now?

Standard stuff, especially if it's to help you sleep rather than because a SE says it must be there. Just a stack of standard timber of whatever your wall is made of, e.g. the ridge beam of my house is supported partly by 2 internal walls that have a stack of three 147 by 47mm C16 regularised timbers running up inside the wall.

Have you finished ANY job yet? Hows the heating in the new bathroom?

Old timbers and floor boards if not rotten and reasonably straight will make a good shed. Some of the old doors and windows can go into that as well.

If you have not got your supply connected and 3 phase is available for not much extra it would be worth considering, just in case.

Yes stop the water going into the tank, if you can't find a shut off valve then worst case is a piece of wood across the header tank and tie up the ballcock to that piece of wood. Run the hot and cold taps until they stop (loft tank empty) then open the drain valve to empty the hot water tank.

You cannot empty the HW tank just by opening taps. That is why you have a dran valve at the bottom, that often you have to attach a hose to and lead the house outside to drain it. Having a fixed drain off pipe makes that easier.

no, I think that is a drain valve (that makes your job easier) The thicker 22mm copper pipe going up is the feed. that will be coming down from the header tank in the loft. If there is no valve on that, then worst case is you have to turn off the feed to the header tank and run down the header tank before the hot tank will empty. If that is a drain valve, one of the white pipes will feed outside somewhere.

It's a while since I looked at one of these but my recollection was one of the "normal" (at least normal looking on the terminals) channels is dedicated to HW heating. I can't remember if it was channel 1 or channel 8, but read the manual more thoroughly and all should be revealed.