ProDave

Where is that 400C measured? Flue temperature? you don't normally want the flue temp much above 250C What does the stove manufacturer say about rear and side clearances?

AND the tenancy must be worded properly, the appropriate notices must have been served correctly and in the correct order at the start of the tenancy AND Gas safe certificate and EICR must both be valid and in date. There are a LOT of things that can be wrong to invalidate an S21 and a shrewd tenant who has no intention of leaving will of course not point these out to you until it gets to court for the possession hearing at which point it gets kicked out until you rectify the issue then start again with a new S21. IF the tenant has not vacated by exchange of contracts you want to ensure you have a copy of the tenancy agreement and all notices served and the gas safe and EICR etc before you decide whether to exchange with the tenant still there, or delay exchange until it is vacant.

The MAIN purpose of a diverter is to ensure (as near as possible) 100% self use of your home generated PV power rather than let it get exported to the grid for little or no payment. It is better to heat some hot water with it (and so reduce the power needed from the ASHP) than let it go to the grid. On mine I also have a wireless switched 700W convector heater to dump some spare heat into the house when the PV is generating more than the immersion heater is able to absorb. I find in general over a year, about 1/3 of my PV generation ends up in the immersion heater. Most of the rest is self used by other appliances and very little goes to the grid.

This is widely discussed amongst landlords. The date a tenancy agreement ends is pretty meaningless, other than it sets out the minimum before which a landlord cannot serve notice. At the end of the agreed period, it normally transfers to a monthly rolling contract. At that point a LL can serve notice to end the tenancy with whatever notice period the agreement states. That is really just asking the tenant to move out. If the tenant does not vacate then, and only then, the LL can seek an eviction notice from the courts. Only when that has been granted does a LL have the right to evict and can then call in the bailifs to enforce that. It is getting that court order that can take time. There was a long period due to Covid when you could not even seek a court eviction notice and there was a huge backlog when the courts re opened. If you complete with the T still in occupation, then YOU become the LL and take over the tenancy with all the legal implications of that, and you would then have to serve notice and possibly take it to court for an eviction notice.

Once you have exchanged contracts, that forms a legally binding contract which has legal penalties in the event of failing to complete. The BIG red flag here is the property is currently tenanted. This is more an issue for the vendor, but if the tenants do not vacate when they say they will, the vendor could fail to complete as he would be unable to provide vacant possession. This is a risk to the vendor not so much you, and for this reason most would advise not to exchange contracts until the tenants have left. If the tenants refuse to leave it could require a court order and that could take up to a year in some cases.

600M of underground 240V cable of sufficient size not to have excessive volt drop, is going to be expensive and you are not just going to buy it from a wholesaler, That is direct from the manufacturer stuff, think what comes on a dirty great big cable drum on a trailer towed behind the DNO's vehicles. There is nothing stopping the DNO undergrounding the HV cable then coming up to a pole mounted transformer then back down again to your house. You need to get alternative quotes from them for that option to compare the cost of underground cable vs overhead. Underground has the advantage you can dig all the trenches and lay the ducts and they just have to pull the cable through.

@zoothorn will just move into his shed once the stove is installed, that will be warm and silent heat, apart from the odd pop from the burning logs.

You would need to know EXACTLY how it is connected in extreme detail before designing a solution that will work with both. In my case (LG heat pump) it uses a double pole contactor to switch the immersion. The PV diverter just switches the L with a solid state relay. So instantly a conflict there.

The issue is the Ecodan controller wants to control the immersion heater and turn it on and off as it needs. BUT so does the iboost. If you simply connect the two in parallel it is likely to end in smoke somewhere if both should ever try and turn on at the same time. By far the simplest solution is turn off the Ecodan legionairs function and connect the immersion heater only to the immersion heater.

Bleach and water mixed 50:50

Don't over complicate yourself with the detail of what they are fitting. Your objective is a quiet system that you can live with. just make it clear they can fit whatever they require to make the system function as it should and within it's warranty BUT if it make a noise to the point of disturbing your sleep like the old system then you WILL be complaining again and expecting a resolution,.

It is probably wise to get your electrician to install a consumer unit in your kiosk connected to a couple of site power sockets with meter tails ready to connect into the meter when it arrives.

If you are going with a split load board, a good split is upstairs lights and downstairs sockets sharing same rcd and vice versa. So something tripping the downstairs sockets does not trip the downstairs lights. All RCBO is still much better.

I would not bother. If you are worried about a single fault tripping multiple circuits, the best design change you could make is an all RCBO consumer unit rather than a more common dual RCD split load board.

Generation meter in line with the cable coming down from the inverter and before the downstairs ac isolator. For a simple job like this, get a local electrician to decide where and how to connect it into the consumer unit. Or post a picture of your consumer unit with the cover off for suggestions.

@saveasteading if you don't know the local distributor for Rationel is ADW in Aberdeen, they are very approachable, send your window schedules to them for a quote. Window pricing does seem to be a lottery but when I priced ours I sent the schedules to 5 quality window suppliers and Rationel came back the cheapest so ot was a simple decision.

Very happy with my Rationel Alu clad timber 3G windows. I wanted no maintenance, no regular re painting of windows. I also like the very clean simple profile of the Rationel units. I do admit a 3G tilt and slide unit is a little heavy, but it does slide nicely, but your granny might not have the strength to get it moving. Do look at samples before buying. One make of "Alu clad" timber windows I saw fitted into a new house I was wiring struck me as very poor, a thin sheet of aluminium stuck to the outside of a timber window with no gap. A far cry from the well designed system Rationel use with an air gap between the frame and the alu cladding.

Simple answer is yes. Many of us have done just that. A Monoblock ASHP works in a similar way to a system boiler so you would plumb it like and S plan system. There will be some important detail differences more so often with the wiring and that is very specific to each particular ASHP exactly how they operate. What you might find with no professional input is extended gaurantees might not be honoured.

What I was trying, very badly, to say, was lets say you are (wrongly) trying to fit a HP in place of an oil boiler that is driving radiators that need to reach 70 degrees to get the house hot enough in the depths of winter. I have heard it say something along the lines of "the heat pump heats the water so far and the oil boiler bit heats it the rest" That is the bit I just can't fathom because I just can't see it working. Or in other words, I hope people are not expecting to fit a hybrid where what they should be doing is modifying the heat emitters so they will operate in a temperature range the heat pump is capable of.

But surely most of that will now be collected and sold in the normal way? The practical effect is the forest has been harvested a bit before it was mature. Then it will be replanted. I can't see it just being left to rot.

Likewise we moved to a normal policy once we got a temporary habitation certificate. We went through the broker GSI also mentioned on this forum. We went through the broker due to the all timber construction so in some insurers eyes "non standard construction" and they never actually asked about a completion certificate.

it's normal to get a self build policy before you start, it can be harder part way through a build. Ours covered the building and the static caravan though not the contents of the static caravan.

This sounds very much like issues I had at the start with my LG ASHP. So there will be a flow switch to make sure the heat pump is seeing sufficient water flow. There could be 2 issues: There may be a motorised valve that opens when you get a call for heat and it is taking too long to open and the flow switch test times out before the valve has opened fully. The flow rate might just be too marginal so it is not triggering the flow switch every time. This was my problem and solved by fitting an extra pump to boost the flow rate. If there is an automatic bypass valve, try opening that a bit more to allow more bypass flow to help things along. Or save yourself the head scratching and just call the installer and say the system you installed a few months ago is not working properly.

The whole concept of a hybrid has puzzled me. What is the actual purpose of it and exactly how does it work? We know heat pumps work best at relatively low temperatures and relatively low power output. I am struggling to see just how adding an oil boiler can help that, without the oil taking over completely. About the only thing I can think is use the ASHP element for low temperature heating and the oil element for quicker and hotter hot water heating. but if that is the aim they would be better off as completely separate systems.

Yes, an island hood from Howdens, recirculating. I don't seem to haver taken a photograph of it.