MikeGrahamT21

Insulation choice gets squeezed with thin joints, but as you say full fill i'm guessing you are going for fibreglass/wool? If so this will be OK. If you are thinking full fill PIR, this is a no go, as the boards are designed for traditional mortar joints, not thin joint.

District heating is a good option, but to be honest so is the gas grid...I know theres been a lot of negativity about gas, and natural gas does need to reduce, but as we use ever more hydrogen in the network, and also synthesis gas generated as a by product from waste etc, the gas grid will become far more efficient and low carbon than electric will be for a long time

Do you have the option of adding flue gas heat recovery on your boiler? That would give you a few points

Would work out cheaper for me too...but who determines the price of the house, and is it fixed, or dynamic?

Flooring was actually just some cheap laminate from B&Q which I put in many years ago when this used to be a dining room, to stop the house rabbit eating the Lino I used to have down. When I came to do this, it was still in great condition, and I had a load of spare lengths, so I chose the best bits and relayed just in the kitchen area, seemed a shame to throw it away and I was happy with the colour match. May have been walnut effect?

Certainly looks the same doesn't it. Although it doesn't explicitly say, the diagram appears to suggest the seal goes on in one piece and the hinges go over the top of it. It seems like a good place to start I guess, rather than cutting bits.

The only one i've ever done the hinges had their own seals, so you cut a gap in the other seal. To me that just doesn't look right what he's done at all. Do you know the make? You could maybe download instructions?

Why oh why is there half a plastic drinking bottle cable tied onto the pipework? ?

I didn’t, for ease I just ended up putting plasterboard up, the options for fire proofing became unclear and expensive, and I was short on time

Ahh OK, is that just because bats are common in your area? Or you have them in parts of your house? Not sure i'd want any pet bats at this particular point in time ? Yes, you will need to use the chimney effect, soffit ventilation and then ridge ventilation, this can be achieved with a dry ridge (which is ventilated all along), and then you will have to cut the roof membrane right at the ridge to allow air through, but all depends on whether there is space to do so without risking issues with weatherproofing. For me I think i'd be using this stuff: https://www.lbsbmonline.co.uk/tlx-bat-safe-breather-membrane Expensive but, it does the job

You are meant to install battens to create the required gap near the membrane, to stop the insulation pushing up too close

Never dealt with bats before...but what has bats got to do with roof membrane choice?

I don't have a direct answer for this, but I have two vents which go through a cavity wall which I had to put in as a fire stop, which leads from a vaulted ceiling into the loft space, and I put fire rated valves on these to maintain the fire protection, it seemed a sensible thing to do. I think its more about maintaining any existing fire protection

It DIY Kitchens (www.diy-kitchens.com) this one, handleless in Grey (which turned out to be a Farrow and Ball colour in the end, not that they advertise it)

I'm not 100% sure what you are aiming for, but heres a couple of points which sprung into my head whilst reading your post: 1m x 2m flat roof window almost directly above the bed - Assuming you are going to have come kind of blind on this to stop light coming through at night? Solar control and 3G are two totally seperate things. Yes a 3G panel on a pitched roof window will heat up less than a 2G one, but I also had to install exterior awnings on mine to really bring down the imported heat on a summers day. You can get solar control glass in both 2G and 3G which tends to be tinted, and this is totally seperate to how many panes there is. You can also have solar control film applied to the outside which is reflective from the outside, and almost transparent from the inside. Whether you go openers or not depends on how much you like a breeze through the house. The MVHR will provide all the ventilation required to meet BC standards, but there may be other things to think about such as fire escapes. Whilst I appreciate a very expensive Zhender MVHR would be super quiet, there will be other units which will come pretty close. Take a look at some other units and their sound output at the same amount of airflow as the one you've been recommended. I bought a £400 Vortice unit off ebay brand new and i'd say its pretty quiet, so I wouldn't say there is a need to spend a fortune, just compare the specs, and perhaps speak to BPC Ventilation about this, they will be able to recommend a unit which meets your needs. Hope this helps with choosing and maybe saves you a few ££

I am indeed mate, been a long time coming that one, but finally made it! ?

This is what i ended up doing for the humidity boost relay, works a treat.

So finally got round to finishing all the decorating over the Christmas break! The front window will be getting swapped for triple glazing at some point, but other than that and a tiny bit of skirting board its complete.

Thought i'd added the final result for this, they passed without any problems, so if anyone needs to do some for an extension, these are probably reasonably good to follow.

I found this whilst doing some research on wet rooms... https://bathcenter.co.uk/marmox-360-drain-inc-stainless-steel-grid-147643-p.asp It does say it only fits marmox 360 trays though?

Just a note on your lintels, I don’t think using PIR backed plasterboard is a good idea, and I’m pretty sure it could be a dangerous move. Use fireline plasterboard (1 layer) or normal plasterboard (2 layers) on your lintels i forget what amount of fire protection you need on lintels, but make sure you adhere to it

@A_L is right, extensions have a higher allowable U value so your BCO has made a mistake there... either way you want it as low as possible, take a look at xtratherm cavitytherm, it’s full fill cavity insulation which should get you around or just below the 0.2U mark with that build-up

I used offcuts of PIR/EPS, cut into wedges, does the job

Sure, it was from here. It was about 3 years ago, so i suspect prices may have gone up slightly since then. https://www.justdoorsuk.com/composite-doors.php All doors are custom sizes, so as long as its within the normal range, it shouldn't be a problem. EDIT: I'm questioning myself now as to whether it was there or here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/ I've slept a few times since i bought it ? Just ran my door through both, and coming in at around £700 now, so it has gone up a little, but to be expected i suppose

Dry Ridge or not? Either way you are very close, so may disturb the ridge, dry ridge will be easy enough to sort, otherwise you'll need to cart some mortar up there to re-set the ridge tile