MikeGrahamT21

What about the roof? I wonder if there is a leak over the cavity and water is dripping all the way down

I'd probably guess at penetrating damp or rising damp, especially since the radiator is so close. Even if that air vent was working (if it currently isn't), it probably wouldn't fix that problem. What type of wall construction is it? Damp Proof Membrane in place? Pointing on the outside in good condition?

Assuming your plaster was in date? Poured the plaster into water, not water into plaster? Consistency should be like greek yoghurt, nice and creamy. All equipment fully clean, and water crystal clear? Any speck of plaster will cause it to go off super quick. If you splash with water too soon it makes it go off also, water causes it to harden. I've seen all sorts of tricks to slow or quicken the setting times in videos online.

Yeah that was the biggest thing I learnt too when plastering, patience, leave it alone, its amazing how it wets back up to smooth it. Would also say if your final coat was sagging you may have been a bit on the thick side. I know its hard when doing a patch though.

Well it seems to be working so far: (for those who don't show signatures) Gas (CH only) - 5679kWh (December 2020) Gas (DHW only) - approx 840kWh Electric - 1420kWh (November 2020) Solar - 16 Panel, 4kWp - 3355kWh (2019) Water - 38m3/a or 104L/person/day Heated Floor Area - 62m2 Space Heating Requirement - Approx 92kWh/m2/a In the last 2 months my EAC has dropped nearly 1000kWh, now approaching 90kWh/m2/a

I plan to have an air test one day when I’ve finished keep building extensions, I dread to think the result, but I try as best as I can to seal everything up and use membranes and tapes where necessary, I just keep thinking as long as my annual consumption of gas keeps dropping, whilst also adding more floor area, that’s got to be a good thing! Having completed around 40% of the total floor area this year I can certainly tell a massive difference, but know I still have a long way to go yet. Keeps me busy ?

I can't see the lockshields listed anymore actually. I've got loads spare if you are after one or two or them, just PM me your address and I'll send some over to you. The MLCP stuff is still there, its all listed under UFH Water Heating System. Their website has changed a lot since I bought from them and its harder to find stuff now. Also the pipe has WRAS printed on it:

Would you like me to change my signature? ? ? Please don't make me do the water... 104L.Person-1.day-1

My entire system was cheaper than using a comparable 15mm pipe system, and the only non-standard bits that are used as the eurocones, I fitted the 16mm eurocones inside the standard TRVs, and the lockshields were purpose bought 16mm eurocone ones but were cheaper than their 15mm counterparts. The 16mm MLCP pipe is a million times better than any PEX ive ever used, and I wouldn't recommend anything else for any form of heating now All my kit came from https://pswtradesuppliers.co.uk/

Surely it'd be better taping the joints in the PIR too to stop the concrete seeping down and negating the insulation though?

@Oz07 Its a 1960's bungalow, part way through renovation. Recently come under the 100kwh/m2/a, im hoping this comes down quite a bit more over the course of the winter, as this is the first winter with a big chunk of the house renovation complete, and the MVHR in place.

You'll need the foil boards, taped with aluminium tape, so it acts as a VCL, and also stops the screed soaking in/leaking through. As @A_L has said, if you are putting a membrane above the insulation, this will be all you will need, and the board type doesn't matter, just go with a cheapest in the insulant type you choose. Seconds could well be bowed, depends on which you are buying. I've bought loads of Kooltherm boards from seconds and co, and they're always perfect, you'd never know the difference, until you measure them, they're often a few mm different in thickness to what they should be. They can also be one thickness at one end and another at the other, so something to be aware of. Kooltherm boards come in a 0.018, but they obviously carry a price premium.

All my figures are in my signature, I have electric hob for cooking, so gas is purely hot water and space heating.

If you look closely in the small print, usually they state "yellowing may occur". Its generally hard to notice yellowing, until you go to repaint, and then you see it a mile off.

I've used Crown's Water based quick dry gloss for many years, and it always seems to leave a nice finish, and doesn't smell. All white paint will yellow slightly over the years.

As long as your cavity is filled with insulation where the step is, there will be a small bridge where your wall ties are, but its likely to be a very very small area.

They'll likely use high compressive strength closed cell EPS. This isn't viable to EWI plinth insulation, as it can't be thick enough, and EPS300 doesn't perform as well as XPS thermally.

Needs to be XPS or some form of insulation which doesn't readily absorb water. EPS is open cell so will absorb a fair amount of water, no good for below DPC. With regards the airtight paint (passive purple or blowerproof), for a cavity wall house, or probably any other house which is having EWI this is a total waste of money! This type of paint is meant to go on the inside face of the walls inside the property to seal any cracks etc, and give an airtight layer beneath the finish plaster. All of these systems etc will have BBA approval documents which show how they should be used, and these are valid with LABC.

Agree with Russell, counter battening gets rid of the requirement to leave a gap within the insulation layer, you can full fill.

Theres no need to remove anything which is permeable from the cavity, this is fine and actually better for the overall effect as others have commented. There are loads of properties having this done with cavity wall, not read of any issues, just needs designing properly and simulating beforehand to ensure there is no risk. http://www.yougen.co.uk/blog-entry/2560/Can+you+have+both+cavity+wall+insulation+and+external+or+internal+wall+insulation'3F/

If your internet is faster than 100Mbps, you'll need the Tenda MW6's or MW5G's with Gigabit ports on them ?

Have a look at the Tenda Mesh APs, they are super cheap and work a treat in my house (bungalow, so spread over quite a large area). When I visit my Dad over the road I still get a connection to my WiFi!

In a bathroom it might be preferable to get some PVC skirting board so its protected from any moisture ingress.

I should also be able to get a few pallets, and decant them onto those to lift them up off the ground. OK, will have a think about it, thanks for the replies, im hoping the discount amount goes up where i found them, as it also shows 15 and 20% off, today was 10%, will see what state of play is tomorrow ?

Yeah I've alsorts running through my head, the usual what ifs. I've got loads of breather membrane which I could put over and weight down which should do the trick.