MikeGrahamT21

I found this whilst doing some research on wet rooms... https://bathcenter.co.uk/marmox-360-drain-inc-stainless-steel-grid-147643-p.asp It does say it only fits marmox 360 trays though?

Just a note on your lintels, I don’t think using PIR backed plasterboard is a good idea, and I’m pretty sure it could be a dangerous move. Use fireline plasterboard (1 layer) or normal plasterboard (2 layers) on your lintels i forget what amount of fire protection you need on lintels, but make sure you adhere to it

@A_L is right, extensions have a higher allowable U value so your BCO has made a mistake there... either way you want it as low as possible, take a look at xtratherm cavitytherm, it’s full fill cavity insulation which should get you around or just below the 0.2U mark with that build-up

I used offcuts of PIR/EPS, cut into wedges, does the job

Sure, it was from here. It was about 3 years ago, so i suspect prices may have gone up slightly since then. https://www.justdoorsuk.com/composite-doors.php All doors are custom sizes, so as long as its within the normal range, it shouldn't be a problem. EDIT: I'm questioning myself now as to whether it was there or here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/ I've slept a few times since i bought it ? Just ran my door through both, and coming in at around £700 now, so it has gone up a little, but to be expected i suppose

Dry Ridge or not? Either way you are very close, so may disturb the ridge, dry ridge will be easy enough to sort, otherwise you'll need to cart some mortar up there to re-set the ridge tile

Didn't know they had a temperature limit, learn something new every day. Insulated will be right word, they'll be expecting you to put a thin layer of insulation under the LVT to slow the heat somewhat, and stop it peaking above 27C. I guess its easy enough to control with a thermostat, mine never goes above 26C

Pretty sure it would lose any warranty being installed in a bathroom too, as its not suitable for purpose. Karndean flooring is the stuff to use which is suitable, wood effect vinyl

If you move some of the insulation, can you see this vapour barrier? You should see if from the loft side. EDIT: Sorry should have read all the way down first! lol. You have a couple of options... Increase airflow massively in the loft space to shift the moisture Remove all the insulation, install a vapour barrier, and then replace insulation

Once laminate is blown its blown, cutting it out is the only way to remove it, so a bigger sink it is! lol

Smaller ones are better for differing amounts of airflow, larger ones better for uninterrupted views and more light.

In theory the roof membrane should be breather membrane, however you could put some small wedges in the laps to increase ventilation. I suspect moisture is coming through the ceiling into the loft and the membrane simply can’t disperse it fast enough, so it simply condenses and then drips. remember not all breather membrane is created equally, so try some methods such as the simple one I’ve suggested to increase airflow

Timber frame is a good solution, which may also be required...have you spoken to a structural engineer about your existing foundations and have they been checked to ensure they are up to the job?

If I had to choose one thing for minimal cost, I’d go extractor in bathroom, it’ll dry that one area, and also have a positive effect on rest of property, but make sure you get a continuous trickle one, they make such a bigger difference than a normal demand extractor. It also depends what your final aim is? Extractor will serve you well in the short medium and long term for little expense

You have to use an approved product for full fill PIR, either cavitytherm or the kingspan product which they’ve just brought out. I should point out though that neither is compatible with thin joint as I discovered some years ago, as the boards are sized for the normal mortar beds. So if you want thin joint it’ll either have to be wool full fill or PIR partial fill. I know you said about using remedial wall ties, but they are seriously expensive and also void the BBA for the cavitytherm product as it has channels for the ties to sit in. also worth pointing out in a 100mm cavity for example none are actually full fill, there is a small cavity of 5-10mm still left. as others have said for it to get past BC you will have to adhere to the BBA documents.

Who said anything about a bathroom? I still stand by the fact these will be fine, if you are concerned you can always put a bead of glue around the last thread before driving it home.

Don't forget this is only for a mirror, since @canalsiderenovation has already got those fixings and they will work just fine, may as well use them surely?

Should be OK in that case, will be 4.5kg per fixing

How’s it fix? Single hanger, double hanger or fixing on each corner? similar ones at B&Q state max load 8kg per fixing

Triple glazing isn’t the best solution for noise reduction, but it should be better than standard double glazing. the frame of the window is also worth considering as a path for the noise. there is little you can do for the above though aside from total replacement which as they are new isn’t really an option. Was this product recommended to you for this particular situation? ensure that the opener does indeed achieve a proper seal, be 100% certain that around the frame is sealed. One trick I used to use when finding where a noise was coming from on cars was to use a piece of rubber pipe, one end in your ear and then use the other end to search for the noise. You may need to setup a source of continuous sound on the outside if the road isn’t busy to allow you to find it, and then take it from there that view out of the window looks just like the woodhead pass in Yorkshire, if it is I can imagine just how noisy it is!

Get an extractor fan in the bathroom, one which runs 24/7 and boosts on elevated humidity, I had exactly the same issue in my bungalow and this solved it along with dehumidifier on the odd occasion. you’ll need to ensure you don’t dry clothes indoors, open the window when cooking, keep pan lids on etc

You talk about slope on the unit, mine is a different one to yours (vortice), but this one has to be totally level as the polystyrene inside the casing is already preformed with the correct slope to remove the water, so check the install guide and ensure yours is correct to whatever it says. ive not had any water escape so far, normal heat exchanger, house sits around 50% RH

Maybe patience is a better idea? Wood flooring and an unbalanced atmosphere aren't a good combination. Besides the slower the plaster dries, the more durable it will be long term.

Maybe its using a set point temperature for the bypass? The fact there is condensation on the windows is good, as long as you remove it from the building, karcher window vac maybe? It'll get rid of a fair amount. The air outside at this time of year is cold and moisture laden, but at say 4C and 90% RH if warmed up to 18C, will be more like 50-60%RH which will have a big drying effect, so if you can get some heat in and leave the windows on vent, given a week or two it will shift a lot

Why not just open some windows? Sure it will let heat out, but it'll get rid of humidity. I don't think enthalpy heat exchangers are particularly suited to the UK from what i've read. I have a non-ethalpy MVHR and my humidity holds between 40-50%