MikeGrahamT21

Agreed. I've had a thought, rather than drilling a whopping hole through the wall, I'm going to install fan in ceiling and take it out through a tile vent. If I have any issues with lack of airflow, I'll put another vent in ceiling down other end of room, and either take it to another tile, or just allow air from the loft area into the room. Think I'll go with the continuous dMEV for £44, sounds a sensible option to me

Yeah, she burns stuff all winter long, which is the most important time for MVHR. I've not totally discounted it, going to pay more attention to where it smells this year for possible intake locations. Yeah, I can pick up a dMEV for £44 (Vent Axia Centra) off ebay, which seems reasonble. Would you say there is little point going for something like a Vent Axia Tempra P (Single Room MVHR) which I can get for £146, but it'll look rather ugly on the outside of the building which isn't great.

Well, I don't know if you've seen my other post, but yeah...thats an interesting one. I REALLY wanted MVHR, but it seems our lovely neighbour with her wood burning stove may have put an end to that one, so really not sure what to do about it, at the moment its not a major issue as the house is leaky enough to sort itself out, but hopefully in the future it won't be quite as much.

Is this part of a whole house system? In this particular room, the only MVHR possible would be single room, just not sure its worth the extra cost. Would you pay the extra £150 for an MVHR unit over dMEV?

Hi, Trying to decide what to do in the utility for ventilation, after spending many hours airtighting the building. We plan to heat the utility to around 16C (which we are doing already), i've put a humidity monitor in there which is showing 15.4C average, and between 73% and 84% humidty, which seems quite high, though I ran it through an online tool, and found that only equated to 60% at 21C, so maybe not too bad. We plan to have a condenser dryer in there, and also a heated airer, so could do with some way of getting rid of excess moisture. Do i get: a dMEV fan such as Vent Axia Lo-Carbon Centra for extract only ventilation (how will this act if the room is airtight?) a Single Room MVHR (Nearest fit is the Vent Axia Tempra P, but the vent pipe will stick out of the wall around 20cm, which could look quite naff) a standard intermittent extractor fan controlled with humidistat Do nothing, though i'm not sure thats an option with Building Control A dMEV or standard intermittent extractor would certainly be the cheaper of the options, but I have no idea where the air would come from, as we have no trickle vents on the doors or windows, and theres no openers on the window. I suppose there will be gaps somewhere for it to come from. Any input greatly received. Regards Mike

ah right, the profile will take 44mm according to the profile manufacturers website, must be a squeeze though! 4-12-4-12-4 are the same as our current 'new' windows, which we are quite happy with, but wondered if the gas gap was a little on the slim side to be truly efficient.

Also, what type of spacers do they use, no mention of that on the website? Our current 'new' ones are the black thermal spacers EDIT: Found it: Inner pane – Pilkington KS Outer pane – Pilkington Optiwhite Gas filling – Argon Gas Spacer bar – SuperSpacer Thickness - 28mm or 36mm for triple glazing How did you manage to get 44mm for triple from these, they don't seem to offer it?? Do you have to speak to them direct?

Yeah i'll definitely look into these. If you wouldn't mind sending some pictures, especially of the internal beading. The eurocell modus is definitely better than this, but its whether it warrants the extra £, and at the moment I don't know how much extra £ that would be.

Yeah the 7016 on upvc does have a slight blueish tint i agree, we have some already, but I don't mind it, looks nice when installed. What are the u value on those windows? I'll take a look at that company, and also the profile.

Yeah absolutely, less frame and more glass will always be better. Both products boast about slim sightlines for maximum glass area, so there may not be much in it. Yes the Liniar frames are indeed marketed for improved acoustics, however we don't really require that as the area where we live is very quiet, most of the time you could hear a pin drop! I know for a fact our current windows suffer from chunky frames, and are indeed designed badly (on our part when i didn't know any better) to have too much frame. The new windows I'll be designing with as little frame as humanly possible, so we get the most glass area.

Hi, Before you comment on this, please bear in mind I don't want to spend thousands and thousands on Alu Clad Timber windows, but rather are more modest uPVC in 7016 grey to the outside. I've narrowed my choice down to two profiles, both would be triple glazed with the following spec: Liniar's brand new EnergyPlus90, 90mm profile which I would furnish with 48mm Triple glazing (4-18-4-18-4) which I believe would give a u-value somewhere in the region of 0.7-0.8U for the whole window. This profile is very new and very hard to get hold of at the moment, but i'd be willing to wait for it, its a 9 chamber product, which has ph-B status. We have other Liniar profile already (energyplus70), which i quite like, and they use q-lon gaskets on their windows which I also like. Eurocell's Modus, which is a 75mm profile, which can take a maximum of 44mm triple glazing (4-16-4-16-4) which gives a certified u-value of 0.8U for the whole window. This product is a 6 chamber, non-passivehouse certified profile, which is easy to get hold of, and can be ordered from the many retail outlets which Eurocell have. Not sure what gaskets they use, website talks about triple seals and airtightness which is a good indication, but I have had eurocell (eurologik) products in the past, and haven't been massively impressed, this however is a very different product. Does anyone have any experience of these products? Not expecting it for the Liniar one as its only just been launched, but the eurocell one has been out for a while. Because the Liniar one is so new, getting a quote for comparison is quite difficult. I did email a company in Nottingham, however they have gone quiet on me. I saw a post by Jeremy talking about the gas spacing in the triple, and from that I reckon the Liniar one would be more suitable, nearer the 20mm spacing, but if both hold the sameish u-value, would there be much difference? Any comments greatly received. Regards Mike

Can't find anything online about Tyvek, but Kingspan Nilvent breather membrane claim "Airtight at normal building pressures", whatever that means? EDIT, found it: Air Permeability Kingspan nilvent ® is airtight, when tested at normal building pressures, i.e. 50 Pa pressure difference. Pretty sure the Tyvek stuff will be the same, but i will check, and if its not airtight, i'll consider the Kingspan Nilvent stuff as a replacement for it, it will come in at some point for the roof.

breather membrane is tyvek supro by the way, not the cheap stuff.

Yeah thats the one, sleeper wall in the middle. Are breather membranes not airtight within 50pa? I know they aren't fully airtight. I seem to remember asking someone before, and for suspended wood it had to be vapour open membrane, so that excess moisture didn't collect under the floor and rot the joists, is that not right? We have plenty of air bricks, and good flow underneath, so I guess it shouldn't be an issue, but was just erring on the side of caution. Plus i've got 2 rolls of the stuff! lol

You are correct in terms of air leakage, not much point as it would be below the barrier, but my thinking was to stop any moisture migrating to the joist ends which would be a lot colder. Thought about insulation type, I know fitting PIR is a pain, but with only 100mm to utilise, its the best type per £ i'm going to get. Also, if I use a wool based product, ideally i'd need the membrane below to stop air movement into the insulation, which isn't going to happen. I could lap the membrane over and under which would get the effect i'd need, but that would also be a pain to detail.

Hi, Just wanting to run my plans past someone to ensure I'm on the right track... We have suspended wood floor (using 4x2), with about 200mm void underneath the timbers and my plans are as follows: Clean out all of the rubbish from under the floor and hoover all the dust up Replace any bad timbers (we have had woodworm previously), and treat any remaining good timbers Re-do heating pipes and ensure fully insulated Apply a sand/cement parge around the joist ends, and then seal using airtight tape 100mm PIR friction fit in between the joists to fully fill them, and use expanding foam to fill in any gaps overlay the joists with breathable roofing type membrane, with the 'outside' side facing into the room, overlap by 100mm, and seal with airtight tape. Lap the membrane up the walls slightly, and bond to the wall (possibly using an airtight silicone??) Flooring to be 18mm OSB3 smart ply Skirting board to finish, and cover up the membrane lap Is there any part of this which can be improved at all? Thanks for your input. Regards Mike

No problems, i'll go with the option of installing it in the back gable should we proceed, which will vent onto our own land

Actually, I think a quick google has just revealed the answer to this one, its a no go! We can put it on the gable end either end, so I'll have a ponder about it and see what I can come up with.

Hi, I'm thinking of installing a Single Room MVHR to our new utility, which will protrude the garage wall by around 50-70mm if I remember right, and we have the option of either exhausting directly onto the neighbours garage (between the buildings there is around 700-800mm), or we can exhaust over his driveway. Now he has been very funny over the years, so I thought this was a sensible question before i crack out the old core drill. Are there any legal issues or come back potential here? Mike

I've seen these type underfloor heating systems before on the internet, and was very interested in them, makes sense I guess using larger area to heat, just seemed a bit too good to be true.

OK, was worth considering, but yeah I do worry about the cool air intake, even from the heated models, only gets to 10c, which seems a bit inefficient. PIV is a lot cheaper to buy, but i'd prefer to buy MVHR and have all the benefits which come with it. Installation will be done by me, following someones design, so costs from labour point of view are nil.

Also, what are your views on Positive Input Ventilation, and d-MEV as a whole system, and I'll monitor the loft for smells. This obviously wouldn't capture any heat, but would still fulfil the air quality side of things.

Yeah i think thats got to be the next step. I'd say a good 80% of the time it must be westerly, however we did smell it quite often last year in the front (nearest to them), so this may not necessarily be the case.

Neighbour is east of us, so normally with west wind, wouldn't be an issue, just those odd times when we get the cold easterly's. I'll keep an eye on where it smells, the back of the house is always better than the front, but i'll take more notice this winter.

Thought that might be the case too. Ah well, at least I'm going into this with my eyes open, last thing I want is to install all this and be disappointed. On the plus side it gives me a free £1500 to go toward battery storage for our PV when it becomes viable (going to give it some time to develop, as things are hotting up), you never know may even be government incentives in the coming years.