MikeGrahamT21

Take a look here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/fire-doors.php

I have similar behind my rads, 1960s plaster, its debonded from the blockwork behind, if you push it, it moves, i need to knock it off when i do those rooms and replaster. Check this on yours

Yes you can permanently stain quartz... I've managed it. Of course quartz is non porous, but the staining can come from a chemical reaction with the resin, which is actually worse. I casually put some rhubarb on my white tops, and now have a lovely little dark stain where the liquid oozed out of the rhubarb, tried alsorts to get it out but it won't shift. Turns out oxalic acid is terrible for staining the resin, and rhubarb has a lot of that in it. Ignore the samples for stain resistance also, i did exactly the same, dolloped a load of oil and turmeric on it, left it for days, and it wiped straight off, no stain, on the actual worktops, it leaves a stain, however this one does disappear magically over a day.

Where would you locate the door knocker on that door anyway? Where it normally goes is glass.

I would double coat that one to be honest. Clean it all up, and remove any rough edges with a scraper/knife, squeeze a good amount into the 'hole' to give a background fill and let it set, and then do a finishing bead over the top, and finally paint to seal it all. Another option would be to inject expanding foam down the back of it (not loads), again allow it to set, trim off any excess, and then again use the caulk/flexible filler to finish it.

Think you'll struggle with quadrant or scotia on that, its curved! Quadrant may do it with enough nails in it, but you risk breaking it. Siliconised caulk for me, and then paint over once dry to seal it and slow it drying and cracking itself.

I think i'd go resin on a DIY basis, plus its permeable which is always a plus from an environment/flooding perspective.

Take a look at these: https://www.myappliances.co.uk/Cooker-Hoods I got mine from here, was far better performing than any big brand I could find, and a lot lot cheaper, its really quiet too.

Speak to Sheffield Solid Surfaces, they may well be able to help with this.

Thomas Armstrong are another. I forget where i got my adhesive from, but it was a company through Jewson which is who delivered it all. T/A are based in the north of england, so you may still be in same situation.

Take a look at my blog to see how i've done it, i'm also in a 60s bungalow. I've used PIR, but always make sure that there is something holding the PIR in place from underneath, i used metal clips screwed into the joists, as I have had it in the past drop down with the natural movement of walking on the floors. Plenty of expanding foam in any gaps, and whilst the floorboards are up you may as well whack an airtight membrane down before putting the boards back in, even a breather membrane will be better than nothing if you don't want the expense, and make sure its all taped up and taped to the wall before skirting goes back on. Make sure all ventilation paths are fully open, and insulate the pipe as temp has said, as the temperatures following insulation to the floor in the void will be much colder during winter than before.

Careful not to blow any fittings off with too much pressure!

Have you spoken to Vent Axia? obviously unit is out of warranty, but they may be able to advise. Sounds like the PCB could be bust to me.

Yeah they butt up, bead of silicone to cover joint and then on with the end cap to cover and protect everything

Ahh sorry, these are U shaped channels which usually just push on, installers generally put some silicone in there too for some additional hold Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1m-Ultraframe-25-35mm-End-Closure-Polycarbonate-Glass-Conservatory-Sheet-Trim-/372644260156

They look something along these lines: https://www.trulypvc.com/conservatory-parts/conservatory-roof-bars/bar-end-caps/ultraframe-reca001-glazing-bar-end-cap

Yeah 9.5 is a little on the thin side at the best of times, especially on a ceiling, thicker the better, much like floorboards. The thinner boards you'll end up with ripples over time as it sags slightly.

thats probably the tidiest building site i've ever seen! Good start, hopefully the next stages go well

To be honest, i've only ever bought the kooltherm phenolic boards from them (premium), the delivery driver told me these generally come perfect, and so far he has been right. I've gone through about 30 100mm boards, and every single one has been spot on, obviously just not 100mm, but that didn't matter to me, it was near enough, like 95mm or something. I think the PIR boards can often have damage, but if you are near then you may be able to view and pick some out?

Seconds & Co for insulation, however it is dependant on the BCO and how strict they are. Where I am they don't really question it, just that its there so it doesn't matter so much.

I got a sample of compacfoam, and whilst being quite solid, i wouldn't trust it with a very heavy window. I think its intended purpose was for beneath doors really where there is a firm bearing underneath it. For me, either steel angles like this, or proper timber

As long as its got the foil coating, which i'm pretty sure thermapitch has, its all the same, PIR is PIR.

Yeah there are many factors other than savings to take into account... comfort, sound reduction. Also you say a reduction in 0.4U as if its nothing, i would imagine if you had the chance to reduce a wall's uvalue from 0.4 to zero you'd be there in a shot ?

good little earner for someone too keep suggesting totally different products

Hard to guess not knowing what the texture is... But heres my guess: https://www.brickexpress.com/lbc-milton-buff-forterra-LBC14.brick