MikeGrahamT21

The only one i've ever done the hinges had their own seals, so you cut a gap in the other seal. To me that just doesn't look right what he's done at all. Do you know the make? You could maybe download instructions?

Why oh why is there half a plastic drinking bottle cable tied onto the pipework? ?

I didn’t, for ease I just ended up putting plasterboard up, the options for fire proofing became unclear and expensive, and I was short on time

Ahh OK, is that just because bats are common in your area? Or you have them in parts of your house? Not sure i'd want any pet bats at this particular point in time ? Yes, you will need to use the chimney effect, soffit ventilation and then ridge ventilation, this can be achieved with a dry ridge (which is ventilated all along), and then you will have to cut the roof membrane right at the ridge to allow air through, but all depends on whether there is space to do so without risking issues with weatherproofing. For me I think i'd be using this stuff: https://www.lbsbmonline.co.uk/tlx-bat-safe-breather-membrane Expensive but, it does the job

You are meant to install battens to create the required gap near the membrane, to stop the insulation pushing up too close

Never dealt with bats before...but what has bats got to do with roof membrane choice?

I don't have a direct answer for this, but I have two vents which go through a cavity wall which I had to put in as a fire stop, which leads from a vaulted ceiling into the loft space, and I put fire rated valves on these to maintain the fire protection, it seemed a sensible thing to do. I think its more about maintaining any existing fire protection

It DIY Kitchens (www.diy-kitchens.com) this one, handleless in Grey (which turned out to be a Farrow and Ball colour in the end, not that they advertise it)

I'm not 100% sure what you are aiming for, but heres a couple of points which sprung into my head whilst reading your post: 1m x 2m flat roof window almost directly above the bed - Assuming you are going to have come kind of blind on this to stop light coming through at night? Solar control and 3G are two totally seperate things. Yes a 3G panel on a pitched roof window will heat up less than a 2G one, but I also had to install exterior awnings on mine to really bring down the imported heat on a summers day. You can get solar control glass in both 2G and 3G which tends to be tinted, and this is totally seperate to how many panes there is. You can also have solar control film applied to the outside which is reflective from the outside, and almost transparent from the inside. Whether you go openers or not depends on how much you like a breeze through the house. The MVHR will provide all the ventilation required to meet BC standards, but there may be other things to think about such as fire escapes. Whilst I appreciate a very expensive Zhender MVHR would be super quiet, there will be other units which will come pretty close. Take a look at some other units and their sound output at the same amount of airflow as the one you've been recommended. I bought a £400 Vortice unit off ebay brand new and i'd say its pretty quiet, so I wouldn't say there is a need to spend a fortune, just compare the specs, and perhaps speak to BPC Ventilation about this, they will be able to recommend a unit which meets your needs. Hope this helps with choosing and maybe saves you a few ££

I am indeed mate, been a long time coming that one, but finally made it! ?

This is what i ended up doing for the humidity boost relay, works a treat.

So finally got round to finishing all the decorating over the Christmas break! The front window will be getting swapped for triple glazing at some point, but other than that and a tiny bit of skirting board its complete.

Thought i'd added the final result for this, they passed without any problems, so if anyone needs to do some for an extension, these are probably reasonably good to follow.

I found this whilst doing some research on wet rooms... https://bathcenter.co.uk/marmox-360-drain-inc-stainless-steel-grid-147643-p.asp It does say it only fits marmox 360 trays though?

Just a note on your lintels, I don’t think using PIR backed plasterboard is a good idea, and I’m pretty sure it could be a dangerous move. Use fireline plasterboard (1 layer) or normal plasterboard (2 layers) on your lintels i forget what amount of fire protection you need on lintels, but make sure you adhere to it

@A_L is right, extensions have a higher allowable U value so your BCO has made a mistake there... either way you want it as low as possible, take a look at xtratherm cavitytherm, it’s full fill cavity insulation which should get you around or just below the 0.2U mark with that build-up

I used offcuts of PIR/EPS, cut into wedges, does the job

Sure, it was from here. It was about 3 years ago, so i suspect prices may have gone up slightly since then. https://www.justdoorsuk.com/composite-doors.php All doors are custom sizes, so as long as its within the normal range, it shouldn't be a problem. EDIT: I'm questioning myself now as to whether it was there or here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/ I've slept a few times since i bought it ? Just ran my door through both, and coming in at around £700 now, so it has gone up a little, but to be expected i suppose

Dry Ridge or not? Either way you are very close, so may disturb the ridge, dry ridge will be easy enough to sort, otherwise you'll need to cart some mortar up there to re-set the ridge tile

Didn't know they had a temperature limit, learn something new every day. Insulated will be right word, they'll be expecting you to put a thin layer of insulation under the LVT to slow the heat somewhat, and stop it peaking above 27C. I guess its easy enough to control with a thermostat, mine never goes above 26C

Pretty sure it would lose any warranty being installed in a bathroom too, as its not suitable for purpose. Karndean flooring is the stuff to use which is suitable, wood effect vinyl

If you move some of the insulation, can you see this vapour barrier? You should see if from the loft side. EDIT: Sorry should have read all the way down first! lol. You have a couple of options... Increase airflow massively in the loft space to shift the moisture Remove all the insulation, install a vapour barrier, and then replace insulation

Once laminate is blown its blown, cutting it out is the only way to remove it, so a bigger sink it is! lol

Smaller ones are better for differing amounts of airflow, larger ones better for uninterrupted views and more light.

In theory the roof membrane should be breather membrane, however you could put some small wedges in the laps to increase ventilation. I suspect moisture is coming through the ceiling into the loft and the membrane simply can’t disperse it fast enough, so it simply condenses and then drips. remember not all breather membrane is created equally, so try some methods such as the simple one I’ve suggested to increase airflow