MikeGrahamT21

I think i'd go resin on a DIY basis, plus its permeable which is always a plus from an environment/flooding perspective.

Take a look at these: https://www.myappliances.co.uk/Cooker-Hoods I got mine from here, was far better performing than any big brand I could find, and a lot lot cheaper, its really quiet too.

Speak to Sheffield Solid Surfaces, they may well be able to help with this.

Thomas Armstrong are another. I forget where i got my adhesive from, but it was a company through Jewson which is who delivered it all. T/A are based in the north of england, so you may still be in same situation.

Take a look at my blog to see how i've done it, i'm also in a 60s bungalow. I've used PIR, but always make sure that there is something holding the PIR in place from underneath, i used metal clips screwed into the joists, as I have had it in the past drop down with the natural movement of walking on the floors. Plenty of expanding foam in any gaps, and whilst the floorboards are up you may as well whack an airtight membrane down before putting the boards back in, even a breather membrane will be better than nothing if you don't want the expense, and make sure its all taped up and taped to the wall before skirting goes back on. Make sure all ventilation paths are fully open, and insulate the pipe as temp has said, as the temperatures following insulation to the floor in the void will be much colder during winter than before.

Careful not to blow any fittings off with too much pressure!

Have you spoken to Vent Axia? obviously unit is out of warranty, but they may be able to advise. Sounds like the PCB could be bust to me.

Yeah they butt up, bead of silicone to cover joint and then on with the end cap to cover and protect everything

Ahh sorry, these are U shaped channels which usually just push on, installers generally put some silicone in there too for some additional hold Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1m-Ultraframe-25-35mm-End-Closure-Polycarbonate-Glass-Conservatory-Sheet-Trim-/372644260156

They look something along these lines: https://www.trulypvc.com/conservatory-parts/conservatory-roof-bars/bar-end-caps/ultraframe-reca001-glazing-bar-end-cap

Yeah 9.5 is a little on the thin side at the best of times, especially on a ceiling, thicker the better, much like floorboards. The thinner boards you'll end up with ripples over time as it sags slightly.

thats probably the tidiest building site i've ever seen! Good start, hopefully the next stages go well

To be honest, i've only ever bought the kooltherm phenolic boards from them (premium), the delivery driver told me these generally come perfect, and so far he has been right. I've gone through about 30 100mm boards, and every single one has been spot on, obviously just not 100mm, but that didn't matter to me, it was near enough, like 95mm or something. I think the PIR boards can often have damage, but if you are near then you may be able to view and pick some out?

Seconds & Co for insulation, however it is dependant on the BCO and how strict they are. Where I am they don't really question it, just that its there so it doesn't matter so much.

I got a sample of compacfoam, and whilst being quite solid, i wouldn't trust it with a very heavy window. I think its intended purpose was for beneath doors really where there is a firm bearing underneath it. For me, either steel angles like this, or proper timber

As long as its got the foil coating, which i'm pretty sure thermapitch has, its all the same, PIR is PIR.

Yeah there are many factors other than savings to take into account... comfort, sound reduction. Also you say a reduction in 0.4U as if its nothing, i would imagine if you had the chance to reduce a wall's uvalue from 0.4 to zero you'd be there in a shot ?

good little earner for someone too keep suggesting totally different products

Hard to guess not knowing what the texture is... But heres my guess: https://www.brickexpress.com/lbc-milton-buff-forterra-LBC14.brick

hang on tho, is there anything actually supporting that lintel when the bricks are removed? Looks like it finishes a bit short to me

Those 'purlins' look like 6x2, certainly not what they should be. The purlins in my roof (and I've not measured them) must be at least 14x4's, they're huge, though my span is bigger than this, the fact they're bending shows its not suitable. I would put some cross ties on to each set of rafters, leave those purlins which are already in, and it'll give some extra support. Search 'raised tie roof truss' to show you what i mean. Other than that, if the roof isn't leaking, and it certainly looks dry, I wouldn't worry about it. The next time you have it re-roofed, one section will just get overbattened to raise the height.

Yeah, and B&Q do an even shorter version that fits in the back of most cars, but only 18mm... https://www.diy.com/departments/smooth-osb-3-floorboard-l-1-69m-w-634mm-t-18mm/1696227_BQ.prd Not the cheapest agreed, however i find its got a much superior surface to normal OSB3 TG4's, highly sanded, you can actually skate over it in socks! LOL

It depends what you see on the inside. Removing a gable end would be a huge largely unnecessary job to undertake, most people would just leave it be and start again with trusses the other side. All of the bungalows on my street have this same little ripple where the party walls are between the 2 bungalows. The gaps in the tiles don't look substantial as far as I can tell, and if its been like it for 30 years, again as long as inspection on the inside checks out i'd say it will be fine.

If it lines up with an extension, it'll be where the old gable end wall is

Don't forget OSB3 TG4 which at 18mm will also work with the 600 ctrs, or 22mm if you want something firmer (22 OSB3 will be firmer than 22 chipboard)