MikeGrahamT21

That seems to be more related to your tank and the rest of the system aside from the HP. When you nip up to the unit, i'm sure it will be printed near the serial number

3.2kw - Would this relate to your ASHP? Assuming they can modulate much like a gas boiler? What model is it? Had a look through the post and couldn't see it mentioned, apologies if i've missed it

So sounds like your meters are accurate. 60kWh over a week for other items sounds reasonable. I'm certainly no expert on heat pumps, but that does seem like a lot of energy for a week! Have you spoken to the installer about this, do they agree its not right? Maybe give samsung a ring direct? Never know could be some firmware upgrade to fix a problem.

Of course, sorry you did say you had a seperate meter for the HP. Does the HP report any energy usage, just in case the meter is wrong for any reason? Or does the uptake on the HP meter match that on the main meter?

Hang on, the quooker will intermittently heat the water in its tank, have you ruled this out of the equation?

Glue and screw 20mm timber to the joist tops, and put another 20mm insulation in place?

You sure someone isn't making a sneaky brew without asking if you want one too? ? Is the burst of 3kW a regular occurence? If so its time to start turning some circuits off and narrowing it down.

I bought the comfotube first actually before I was committed to installing MVHR straight away and didn’t want to be left with loads of pipe, I needed some to use as airtight underfloor conduit for electric cables. in the end I ended up doing the mvhr install and needed another 50m and went with quiet vent thinking there couldn’t be much difference but there certainly was. I think price difference was about the same when I bought. If I was buying more pipe I’d stick with the comfotube over other products for ease of use and also a better fit into the terminals

Best budget solution...do nothing, doesn't look too bad to me. Drains are good and thats the main thing. Patching up with tarmac is asking it to flake off later down the line.

Your right, I thought they were german.

I've not used this specific product, but i did use two types on my install. I used Zhender Comfotube and QuietVent, both 75mm, both antibac and antistatic, and found the zhender stuff a lot nicer to work with, didn't fight with me as much during install.

but are they better in all the wrong places? Ie where you don’t see anyway. the DIY kitchens runners and fittings are all German made, and surely chipboard is chipboard?

I've only ever dealt with DIY Kitchens Online, so can't comment on others, but from what I've seen of my units the carcases certainly are pretty much the same as any other carcass. The DIY ones are flat colours, i suspect if you want a wood grain effect you may have to go to luxury provider and pay a lot of money. All the end panels and plinths from the above supplier were MDF, and were painted to a high quality. From what i've read in magazines, I think the general thought is to buy cheap carcasses (but get the ones which are glued and ready built), and then if you want more expensive doors go for those seperate, just make sure you've bought standard size carcasses to keep costs down

I got compatibles off ebay, itzala I think was the company, somewhere in europe, they took a while to come but were about a quarter the price of velux.

Sometimes leaks require a certain amount of pressure to leak if you know what I mean. Once it’s hot and pressure has risen that may be just enough to tip it over

Probably PEX. If its continuous lengths between radiators shouldn't be any leaks, but if there are joints it could be one of those leaking. PEX is meant to have an oxygen barrier to prevent air getting into the system, but even the best PEX this tends to only work to 50C maxmium, so there could be a bit of air ingress if its not up to spec, but still don't think it would add up to the amount your topping up. If you can view anywhere under the floor without destruction, see if you can see any joints in the pipe, if you can, then they will need inspecting until you find the rogue one.

Hard to know for sure, but you'll know roughly how long the taps are open when refilling, it won't be an insignificant amount I know that. What type of pipe are you using to connect all the rads?

Can they not supply the timber you need direct to you? Can't be wrong then

In the wrong place? Usually they are part of the boiler. Certainly can't rule out a leak under the floor if everything else checks out

Dodgy pressure guage? Does tapping it move it?

How old are the rads? Older radiators will be corroding and letting off gas, most boilers have an air release valve built into them meaning pressure will drop over time. If thats the case, you probably need rads cleaning out and then fresh inhibitor adding to the system.

No problems, let us know how it goes! ?

If it were me, i'd do the following: Remove that ridge til which has the gap against the flashing, ensure that the flashing is formed correctly to drain water away, and reset the ridge tile, ensure all pointed up. (i would hope that will cure this!) Photo 2 - Not sure where this fits in, but clear all the rubbish off of that flat roof area, form the flashing down so it actually touches and doesn't leave a gap, and stick with roofing adhesive Photo 4 - Apply roofing adhesive, and close the gap again The dry verge can be a bit tight at times, depending on brand, i've had loose fit and tight fit versions, its not the end of the world, but clearly wasn't the right one for your tiles.

Wow that is shocking for all that money!! Can you take a photo of the entire roof and mark on where the water is entering the building? Pointing that ridge tile up will quite possibly help matters too!

Another one for you with a few more facts and figures Also another config with Aircrete: