TonyT

Agree. i never work to a minimum specification. money well spent at the correct time, pays dividends later.

I would use an anchor bolt, either 400 or 600 spacing so there is one fixing per bay. m10/m12. sds drill bit through the timber into the masonry in one go.

Remember to put the wagos inside an enclosure/box

I use resin a lot, generally 6mm rod will be a 8mm hole, drilled out, dust blown out, damped if required/time allows/ instructions specify resin gun spout inserted into hole all the way in, and trigger pulled, pull out an inch and trigger pull continue until end of hole. screwed rod, twisted into resin not pushed. warmer the ambient temp the quicker it goes off. As other say don’t use the first few dribbles of resin until it’s consistently mixed.

And if it is a functional alarm, and properly installed, removing the screw will open the tamper contact and will result in alarm going off even if the alarm isn’t set. you may need engineer code to carry out a reset, user code nit having the appropriate permission to do so.

Intruder alarm joint box

Agree, horrible noisy things coped for years with normal drill/driver

https://www.dehn-international.com/sites/default/files/media/files/pv-rooftop-wp018-e.pdf you would have to inform the fit provider of a change to the existing system

Never know, lightning can travel along to the inverter, that’s connected to the mains. Saving other electronics minimising damage

I think a SPD would be a good investment ( surge protection device) they can be fitted at the consumer unit to protect all the appliances/electronics in the house

lots of meranti available, I used some for external timber work as I just wanted it to last, also used it for skirtings too, even though they were to be painted, just that they went through the spindle moulder and produced better results mine came from the local Rembrandt timber merchants i

Edit-didn’t even know plywood came in 8x2 sheets that were T&G. Thought it was only in sheet 8x4 and larger sheets! every days a schools day!

If you did decide go down the removal route and remove the 18mm chipboard would 22mm chipboard be bettter due to the tongue and groove (T&G) rather than butting 22mm plywood? you would also have to add additional noggins under the ply to catch each edge as it’s not T&G, so a lot more work. are you able to post some pictures of the joist installation, as this is probably the problem area, as most joiners can lay chipboard flooring and have been doing so for decades ,but not engineered joists

Chemical level, EPS softens the plasticisers in the cable and the cable degrades

leave well alone and pay for the utility company to move it

You will need to run 2 dedicated power circuits for the point of use heaters. wouldn’t a return circuit be worth reconsidering.

I would run a bead of silicone along the floor and stick the wall insulation to it. then foam any undulations. then foil tape the right angle between the wall and floor boards

Isn’t dot and dab ok as long as the dots and dabs are a continuous ribbon around the perimeter of the board, supplemented with intermediate dabs?

I would have the architect in charge of all the other designers/lighting engineer/ m&e engineers etc otherwise, the excuses start when something happens, maybe cost a bit more for them to manage We don’t work for you- but direct to the client, is always a firm favourite. just as all trades work for the main contractor and that takes the excuses away, stops the blame apportion game. Unless there’s is clear written demarcation

Standard is fine, you want a thickness that is easy to handle but not too thin that it tears when you look at it!

And or a condensate pump

Nothing wrong with 22mm chipboard, pva glue and 63mm ring shanks. Standard for decades so any modern improvements would be a positive, like foaming glue etc

I covered the timbers, may not have needed but I thought it was more belt and braces and less likely for it come away from the timber

Should be reasonably cost effective as cabling and pipework is easy in a bungalow if it’s going up and then back down.

The 50mm insulation on the wall first when it’s taped up will act as a better insulator as it’s completely covering the whole wall. the battens fixed to the wall first , will give cold bridges.