TonyT

25mm 4core. All you need is 25mm in diameter 25mm 5 core is 29mm diameter. no reason why that won’t go through a 63mm duct

The strainer is on the return of the heating, so I don’t know which valves do what on that set up, no harm in isolating all 4 removing the strainer and cleaning it.

Does that make a difference to the flow?

https://www.hse.gov.uk/construction/cdm/faq/self-build.htm no need to waste £1k on HSE Every other grand design I’ve ever seen I wince at the installation practices that i see. spend the money on better insurance during the build

Sell them

Get him to shave the last 50 hours down, as all he is doing is opening up the last document he created, making it specific to you and saving. It’s not 50 hours work for building control, bearing in mind he’s done 25 hours for planning. £50 is cheap RIBA rates are much higher.

https://stockshed.uk/files/danfoss-redan/Installation_Termix_VVX-B.pdf page 15

If it’s a build on a budget as per the first post, get a joiner to build it on site. I did this for a 60m2 extension, worked out well, I also got to paint every end of cut timber with green preservative which ticked another OCD box.

I agree with lots that have posted that the minimum spec and poor installation practices will generally result in poor outcomes. Majority of trades need supervision or will take the path of least resistance. personally I over engineer critical parts of the build that would give me grief, but then I’ve worked in the game for 30 years so have seen the failings before.

Watch out they may be reinforcing their own network at your cost! ask what the max available supply off the closest pole transformer.

I think those on the navitron forum had the Evacuated tubes before PV, solar diverters become more common and lower cost. now I would fill the roof and possible ground mount PV and have as much as possible and limit the inverter.

Egger instructions are about 60 days without protection from memory, so would agree this would void the manufacturers warranty as the install instructions haven’t been followed.

I wouldn’t supply a sub board via MCB. MCCB or fuse yes, likely there will be no discrimination/selectivity between the mcbs/rcbo in the sub board

He’s allowed out?

Ok I will shut up, I like the stainless steel look ( ok at work ) not at home. i have granite at home with gas?

Stick a wifi antenna on it? Turn it on remotely with an app? more appealing now? ?

Why not speak to a commercial kitchen company to install a cooking suite, instead of high end domestic it may work out better/ cheaper.. suppose it depends you never know! https://www.caterkwik.co.uk/shop/shop-by-brand/falcon/ like a stainless steel island with flush accessories?

So you have more than one immersion? just in case there is a top and bottom immersion?

Electric defrost in the external unit?

Unsafe wedge it on the purlin and fix a batten at the bottom to stop it sliding. or hire a scaffold

Depth depends on route etc regs may say 500-600mm depending if it’s likely to be disturbed. I take a more pragmatic approach and if it’s in a duct, with warning tape, with Swa cabling I would go half that in my own house.

What’s the 3.5* do you give the room scores? what’s the score criteria? out of 5 or 10?

No toilet seat what a poor install

A 100mm duct with power for a light at the gate, or even electric gate, and local power for the lock mechanism and then pull whatever is needed for comms to the intercom, may be cat5/6. alarm cable is handy as each core can handle 1amp. 8 core cable with conductors quadrupled up to allow for volt drop and its cheap as chips. seriously duct with a smaller chamber at either end for pulling in cables etc will be worth it

Have you done it for all the rooms and added it up? sorry had to ask?