TonyT

I like the second option, was actually thinking about this the other week for a small towel rail radiator.

There is no significant current, I wouldn’t worry about it.

Yes it’s fine, flex still has to have a conductor size capable of handling the current like fixed wiring. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA0dot75HR5.html Max 6 amp current Remember to fit 3 amp fuses in the spurs. Brown sleeving/ tape on any conductors used a switched line/live.

Nah, you need to isolate the 3 phases at the same time, why 3 phase mcbs which are effectively single phase mcbs are joined together

https://cpc.farnell.com/europa-components/fs1003psnme/interlocked-fused-switch-3p-n/dp/MC02311

https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/flood

All sounds plausible, expect some damage things get installed generally with no consideration with removal for reuse.

I didn’t link any product just the main page of their website

https://www.aico.co.uk

Aico

I’ve only tried heat engineer. ir was last December, I think it didn’t even have lath and plaster internal walls.

Unless the width is 1200mm ( 2 tiles wide) you are going to need fixings from the ceiling down to the track. have a look at Armstrong ceilings website

Pass the risk to the structural engineer! ask them

No need, my wiring and plumbing is a work of art, hidden below the floorboards for the next person to marvel over, along with the design info, heat loss and other calculations in the maintenance manual for when I kick the bucket and I’m. I longer about to maintain it

Heating system will have to be designed to 55degc or lower for a gas installtion its over 150m2 so needs at least 2 zones. not sure if you are going gas or heat pump. I would do a heat loss calculation as a starting point and I would design my system if I could with 40 deg in mind so that if I had to go heat pump in 10 plus years the pipework has been sized to suit and minimises future fabric disruption i like manifolds and lots of full bore isolation, let’s maintenance proceed without draining down everything, upsetting occupants etc can you do a vertical riser?

I’m with Dave on this. I have an aerial and lots of points wired in the house, what do I need the internet for to watch terrestrial TV

Try hafele

That’s poor on many many levels. thankfully I no longer give centreparcs any of my money.

Not sure where you would link/terminate the dpm. dig out, hoover dust pva concrete

Fool proof, 1 black plug, 1 white plug follow the SOP and away you go, it’s even got new fancy sleeved pins! I should rip out my changeover switch😁

Or if it’s the fixed lug, squash the lug a bit with pliers and use a 3.5mm tap to rethread as the hole

Make it an outdoor kitchen BBQ area

-3 at my area for design calcs, 22 deg in the bathroom, 21 everywhere else and 18 in bedrooms, if you know the construction make up you can do the heat loss calculations

Or use a rise sealant kit afterwards, consists of fingers of fillers inserted into voids between cables and pipes and sealed with a sealant it’s gas/air tight. just an option

Put some sheep wool in the duct, then foam, then sheep’s wool if you want. the foam seals the duct. Wool on its own wont