TonyT

Edge insulation to stop cold bridging at the perimeter of the slab would be beneficial. Agree with Dave 150mm minimum pay for insulation once, pay for energy every month!!

Ah didn’t appreciate you were in Germany. will take some of my comments back, maybe not, still looks rough..

He’s not a plumber, he’s a chancer time to bin him and find some decent trades before this buried and causes you no end of problems

The object is to save you having to pull the old ceiling down if you don’t want to, so screw/nail timber around the perimeter and in a regular spaced interval to catch your ceiling plasterboard. In my area we call it brandering.

Happy for you to have that opinion and I know other sparks feel the same, just offering the reason for the 3 wires. i earth the back of the box with a flying lead

Best find your nearest transmitter, find what band it is and buy that type of aerial. a metal one im sure it would be better than the plastic thing at £40

3 earths- supply, load and earth to back box?

Just copy the type of frame that’s there at the moment. 2x1 or similar fixed to the old ceiling installed to catch new plasterboard sizes

Those 2 black wires are probably the neon on the front? So put them in the load terminals and it will light up when the switch is on. earths go together in that one terminal

If I had external pipework, I think I would have some trace heating as a precaution, controlled via a frost stat or self regulating type, prior to the insulation going on

Wouldn’t you need fire dampers ?

I think triple glazing is good for these units, helps lower the noise of rain hitting the glass.

you need to be in the industry to do that course.

Cylinder Heated at night on off peak electricity giving the heat pump a well earned rest

Oh and it’s not connected to Wi-Fi, etc no facility for this on the as sense2

No I have a combi, as unfortunately no space for a cylinder. so it’s a 2 core cable to the sense 2 and a 2 core cable to the weather comp sensor. Straight from the boiler

I have the sense 2, man it’s complicated!! it falls out with the domestic range so the standard WB engineers don’t know much about it, you need to speak to their technical dept.

What distances are involved between equipment?

Can anyone let me know once the heat loss for a room is calculated in watts how the kWh figure is calculated?

In my head I’m talking about x plan 2 temps one for heating one for recharging cylinder?

Give the heat engineer app a go , it’s a tenner for a one off report. I found it easier than Jeremy’s spreadsheet. https://www.heat-engineer.com

I was thinking about opentherm. this article explains it better. https://theintergasshop.co.uk/content/189-why-hot-water-priority-is-the-reason-s-and-y-plan-should-be-banned

Add a porch to act as a buffer stopping external air coming into the house?

Best to figure out how the cables will enter and leave, be buried at sufficient depth. Not a fan of tripping hazard short lights

y plan isn’t hot water priority its when the boiler can heat the cylinder at a very high temp for good recovery times and then switch to heating mode on a low temp