TonyT

No one said BS7671 was the finished article! let’s be honest probably conceived when 2 single sockets and a switch and pendant were the norm!

https://flameport.com/wiring_regulations/BS7671_selected_subjects/zones_concealed_cables.cs4 Safe zones, in corners of rooms and caused by electrical accessories yes still applies as you could fix something in the future under the trunking etc. safe zones give a general idea where cables should be run behind finished walls

Sure but better run it past the council as they may have given permission based on a different style of window in keeping with the rest of the house, you can only ask them. I do think you would be better looking for a friendly architect or architectural technician to help you navigate these issues, get them all sorted, and get cracking in with the build.

Does the lox one door lift off? many large panels have this facility, makes working on it easier? does your proposed consumer unit not hinge upwards, most small domestic do?

how do you built the soffit / fascia/ install guttering How do you as the client provide the workforce with a safe place to work if you cannot provide safe access?

I think in Scotland we embraced timber frame a long time ago, my 60m2 extension was build over the weekend and a few evenings with me cutting C16 6x2 on the chop saw and the joiner nailing them together, then OSB on top and stacked. It was a quick efficient build. roof trusses we’re delivered a few days and installed in a day and sarking over 2 days. house wrapped and effectively wind and watertight in a couple of weeks. internals proceeded then with stonemason on the outside doing his thing.

https://www.hm-online.co.uk/products/Box-In-Pipes-Skirting-Cover as an example then saves buying skirting

Sure but make sure there is a couple of inches sticking out, cut it with a proper pipe splice and cover it with tape to stop plaster etc getting in the pipe. what about putting them in the wall or making a pipe box skirting to hide them?

Companies will grow sedum for you in other locations, we had some grown in Scotland for a build in Scotland to ensure it fitted the ‘local’ climate this was about 12 years ago

Re reading the thread, you plan to render. how do you do this if you cannot get access outside?

I find that people who want to do a good job generally leave a good job so Good luck to you

Have you insulated the full rafter depth? gaps need filled and foil taped and I also like to see tape extend over the rafters making the installation more airtight/belt and braces

Yes that the pump I recommended in my last post. Value for money and it gives data for efficient running/commissioning

Is the frame screwed or nailed in?

I use both pumps on different installations from the original installer but I like the eco circ plus version that has an led display as it shows you head and flow data

Any erp pump, generally 7m head and on a new build such as this pipes should be designed to minimise loss. not a fan of loads of pumps, primary and secondary etc unless it’s massive. it all ends up over complicating the controls which for most are already complicated enough.

I think removing the frames would be the quickest and easiest way, especially as you can now pencil mark the plaster edge, remove, and refit. once you get over the heartache of removing one the rest will fly in, and you will realise it’s the best decision good luck with whatever option you go with

I think it depends on your water board, the commercial builds I have done, we install a boundary box in the ground, run pipe from this location to the point of use, and Scottish Water or approved contractor makes the connection. type of connection depending if they can turn water off, how many building it affects. live connections can also be made. Generally not something the user has to worry about, saddle connections are used as they are a convenient way of providing a connection.

I would stick with the supplier ASHP pump

Does the lox one cabling have an overall screen? agree with keeping the cables seperate as much as possible.

Why not have a surface trunking with 2 compartments vertically in the corner, 1st compartment for the lox one, 2nd for the power. both units either bushed onto trunking or further horizontal trunking added above below each box

Don’t waste time phoning BC. Email them at every opportunity progress photos ‘inviting’ them to come to site as and when required. does your planning not advise what stages they want to visit, I.E. inspection of foundation trench prior to concreting. give them dates when the excavation will start, finish, concrete pour date and if they can’t be arsed getting out the office well that’s bad for them, you gave them plenty prior warning take plenty of photos for your own reference

Hope they didn’t fix their fence to your garage?

Is there a party wall act/agreement for your neighbour in your purchase pack?