I would point out the ‘defects’ and let the joiner come back with a reply, no different from any part of the snagging process when sometimes builders don’t follow drawings and it make decisions based on time/ effort.
hopefully you have issued all drawings electronically and his quote has no omissions stated.
He’s meaning you need to switch the output side ie the 24 colts you mention above and not the 230 volt AC side
I wouldn’t do a drawing. Ie you’ve found these.
Have you looked at the hafele website I mentioned before.
they do a lot of shopfitter based gear
inwill draw something tomorrow for you to use the Normal switches
I think that’s the best option, UFH on wet and towel rads electric, gives redundancy, ability to utilise as a dump load..
I use a smart socket)out with bathroom) and set a time schedule for mine to utilise cheap night time tariffs.
Can’t see a problem lots of electrics fitted under boilers that fit in kitchen cupboards
hiweber if it does become an issue you could fit the loxobne unit in an IP enclosure?
Tell him you are getting a third party to give independent advice on the roof, if they say it’s acceptable you will pay, if not you will be looking to seek monies back for the roof.
likely he will bugger off
How can you add a window if you cannot get access to outside??
like the rendering, fascia soffit, guttering
You really need to address this issue, or what will you do when the neighbours call the police and the builders walk off the job??
a mini split is for heating or cooling not ventilation.
you need a ducted vent system, you could incorporate heat recovery too in a single unit and run supply and return ducts to each room
or a single unit in the style of a wall fan