TonyT

Likewise Macdonalds in Scotland too

Could be Through the floor joists then up a wall/partition, or just up the wall but clipped/adequately supported through their length

Cables. Run in the cavity too, man that’s rough

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLXDQG4S.html https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CXCAT6M.html https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B07PWHGQSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=48674266290&hvadid=259224352990&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9046861&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3073186192901928029&hvtargid=kwd-298720216058&hydadcr=11872_1766805&keywords=netgear+switch&qid=1695474144&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1 so your router connect to the netgear switch with a patch cable. this then allows you to patch it to your various data points.

Surface Double socket boxes with data points in these boxes you then buy a data switch which provides you with ports to then patch into your various data points

You could fit 2 double surface boxes and fit 8 data points to them, that will let you patch to switch etc

All depends you could buy a rack, patch panels etc , shelves for equipment etc spend loads you could also terminate cable ends into plugs and plug into switches. you could put sockets on the data points and then patch across, depends on you I suppose

Plastering the sand and cement? is there no internal insulation, walls? what are you building?

I’m that could be a future option to add insulated plasterboard over the existing to let it ride over the steel

In your situation I would do the same. ensuring that the pir, is sealed to the timber, and foil taped. many chance of double sheeting plasterboard?

1 bed flat, immersion on night time tariff

How is it difficult, the whole house is being rewired so every room, is affected?

Where does the power come into the building? it’s a rewire put it where you want, but makes sense to make it accessible. silly places like just below the ceiling in the downstairs loo, to inside a kitchen cupboard full of crap to the under stair cupboard likely to be full, or the garage wherhe you have to get past all the accumulated crap. you decide what works for you and you tell the electrician. If it’s further than 3 metres from the electricity cut out it will need another fuse to protect your sub main cable. but none of this is complicated.

Why install a heat pump and then insulate, you have reduced the heat loss of the property so the heat pump maybe oversized?

It’s probably easier to install a new DB and join the tails together that way your installer doesn’t have to touch the original db and comment on its existing condition in a certificate manufacturer will specify type of RCD so that may not necessarily fit the existing space.

Pass through are the easiest to terminate as you push extra into the plug int the right sequence and the crimped cuts the conductor flush as it’s crimped.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-Through-Stranded-Connectors/dp/B07PXMN2VK/ref=asc_df_B07PXMN2VK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=428049212105&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16718566285061275566&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046861&hvtargid=pla-817111770228&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=99265839083&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=428049212105&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16718566285061275566&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046861&hvtargid=pla-817111770228 stick these on all the cables, your basic tester is only checking continuity and polarity, but well worth the effort before it gets too late

One way to resolve this is to Have the MCB in the consumer unit feed a armour cable to a surface enclosure that contains the type f RCD.( not necessary if the same make of mcbs/ RCD is used as you can’t mix and match inside the same consumer unit then cable to the ASHP as normal. best advise as Nick says is get confirmation from the manufacturer. your spark will decide if it’s 6mm2 or 10mm2 based on the circuit design.

https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2019/77-september-2019/which-rcd-type/

Get it designed by someone, lots of easy control panels, sounders detectors on the market all depends why you need https://www.firedetectionshop.co.uk/shop-by-brand/c-tec/?gclid=CjwKCAjw6p-oBhAYEiwAgg2Pgq0qqPw78tGJpOJeHTmRc4kAsd0SvrLOGnvAgjEJALaU8A3aEWY6KxoC2ZAQAvD_BwE

Plasterboard fixings?

Rewiring/ re plumbing required prior to tiling required?

https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-cold-forming-bend/p75445?store=D6&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcUynusgjKzHL5ZFEMQUeHIfH&gclid=CjwKCAjwpJWoBhA8EiwAHZFzfmAAIFfaJBKOXBKRpobrbmu17bM0XxRuoV1bOLhVUxhooo7Br9Fx2RoCuigQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If it’s a unit, wouldn’t it be better to bring the unbroken pipes into the unit and transition to copper there , ensuring no non accessible joints in the wall ?

What kind of sink do you have? enclosed, pedestal or??