TonyT

you need to check the outside ground levels to make sure they are lower than the inside make sure gutters downpipes etc arent blocked and fully working no plumbing leaks. with heating and proper venting they area will dry up. External walls- Cement render? Cement based mortar? this all takes time to dry

The damp will push under the new dpm and up the wall if the DPM isn’t tied into a dpc. effectively relocating the damp issue somewhere else

Low skill solution maybe sit them on a slab to spread the load? then build a timber frame, insulate and apply floor

A252 mesh was the reinforcing and will help the slab. don’t see a problem with either drawing for structural but insulation in a slab may affect and I’ve not done insulated slabs.

I would have no problem with 150mm concrete, done a few buildings, built on sand, with 150mm concrete slab , timber walls and slate roof so more than happy to say it would be fine. We had reinforcing mesh in the concrete slab, with a c35 mix

The council scheme we worked on, the flow and return under the floor was lagged in asbestos, sorry thought you were ripping everything out

It’s a bodge brat get them out to rip it out and start again, otherwise when they are long gone. Will cause you problems to rectify and pay a second time for a decent job

Watch out for asbestos lagging on the communal pipe work, we renovated lots of council houses as a main contractor for the council and the main pipes were lagged in it. worth checking for your safety and others!

Wow. Same question asked in the navitron forum yesterday morning!

Is the boiler in the bedroom and that’s why it’s warm? what about insulated plasterboard stuck to the wall in the style of Wookey on the green building forum?

1 week to wire tops 1 week to second fix and test and certify

You can pick up a loo and sink for under £100 in b&q stick it in a shed and connect up. i wouldn’t be on any site without facilities. It penny pinching to the extreme.

Hi Craig, im also wondering about the heating type and how long you see yourself living in this Building? whats the floor to ceiling height, Incase you can add extra insulation to ceiling/walls etc maybe more cost effective to do this rather than upgrade the MHVR?

Depends on the cable length, how it’s routed, insulation around cable ( if any) if you really have fuses I would be inclined to upgrade fuseboard or atleast get an EICR Incase you redecorate and fit kitchen and wiring is substandard.

6 weeks for NE Fife

It’s now in BS7671 SPD modules can be fitted in consumer unit protecting. Whole installation, retro fitted afterwards to protect whole installation.

Do you have ventilation in kitchen and bathroom? do you have a cooker hood? do you dry clothes inside? do you have trickle vents? do you heat the house to a good temperature? do you have MHVR? do you have a humidity / temp meter?

You can post them their Darwin Award and include a second copy of the user manual?

You get priority fuse boards that allow you to have 2 high loads and switch them google garo depends on the cut out fuse!

What did the do to the new dpm when they laid the slab in my opinion 99.7% builders have no idea about damp issues and refer to the damp industry experts who know very little about damp and will just want to drill holes, inject cream, replace plaster with cement based products etc etc

Not following? worrying about it for months, poured a week ago? why not check the levels prior to pouring? mark datum lines or insert pins to level to?

Sansco - does what it says on the tin. 1080p. app for remote viewing if required. i just look at mine once a week to ensure it’s recording, 1Tb hard drive over writes after about 18 days.

Agree with PeterW. I did just this 2 years ago on a few joists where my boiler was to be located. i used 18mm ply, wood glue and spax screws. its not moving. seen plenty of houses with plumbers/electricians notches and this depth never caused any bother.

Don’t do it!!! investigate further as this solution will not work good link by Soldierdog

A good way of cutting concrete floor is to hire the floor type saw, push along with depth stop, keep the water on and it keeps the dust down, regular parallel lines will make it easy to knock out. only one chance to insulate so best take it, energy costs only ever increase in the long run