TonyT

Preferential engineering- I recommend lots of things but some are my preference not mandatory. chase installer

I’ve just laid 28mm t&g floorboards to match the old part of the house. i used a plug cutter in an off cut of flooring to make plugs, drilled the corresponding hole diameter in the first board, screwed it down and then plugged the hole waited until glue dried and chiselled and sanded the plug flush with the floor. i used ring shank nails and nailed them into each tongue and punched them in with a nail punch. the joists were filled with 200mm of kingspan insulation first, 2 staggered rows of 100mm.

https://theinsulationshop.co.uk/collections/flexible-insulation-valve-jackets we use these in our plant rooms, they will do various other options

Reg 28 of the gas safety regulations basically says you have to have space to safely install and access equipment for maintenance. manufacturers specific instructions will detail this advising what can be fixed to the left, right of it and other clearances that must be maintained. I would be annoyed if I had to service a boiler in a loft and had nowhere to stand safely wouldn’t you?

This ASHP thread must be a wind up....

People like British Gas engineers may be reluctant?? as long as the flooring is secure, space for them to work adequately lit, I’m sure most would just crack on.. check the boiler instructions as it will tell you what free area around the boiler you need to ensure compliance.

You do get a fan grill that has a shield that, fits into the external wall and the air has ton travel downwards to effectively escape the grill, also means the fan is less prone to wind blowing directly into the duct. Mine are black but along the general lines of https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1740725-100mm-4-cowled-outlet-with-damper-cotswold

You can extend expanding foam guns with a length of clear flexible pipe, makes it easier to get into difficult spaces. once i have more Christmas decorations out the loft, I will be doing the same draught remedial works too!

Make sure the area at the boiler is floored, with a light fitting for easy installation plywood the back wall where the boiler will be, gives good fixings everywhere, make sure it sits on the floor that will help spread the load. as Peter says make sure the tank is well supported, trac is a good idea too as it lets you complete the installation and the fitter only has to connect up either end, savings in labour to be had.. are you having 2 immersion as back ups? top and bottom just in case problems with the gas supply/ boiler issue make sure there is a metre in front of the boiler for servicing...

Make the gas pipe 28mm...

I’ve tried to read this thread from the start, but can’t make my mind up....... is there a page that actually advises the male and model of the ASHP? same with controller? has the Op drawn a general layout of equipment?

Yes the lights maybe dismantle but is it the correct dimmer? leading edge or trailing edge?

Multipanel for me. hardest thing is making sure it’s delivered in one piece without scratches etc great to work with I used their adhesive and made sure it was warmed up in a bucket of hot water to ensure it squirts out easy. Agree there is a balance in too much adhesive and the gap not being tight. we used these https://www.screwfix.com/p/extending-support-rod-2-95m/14003?tc=MC3&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI37Gevuu37QIV02DmCh3vMghgEAQYASABEgJXiPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds to ensure panels were pushed into wall and held in place while adhesive set, with 2 mm plastic backers to then add the trims when the adhesive was set

25mm drill bit with a 22 mm copper pipe sleeve and 15mm pipe inserted in sleeve. ends of pipe/sleeve sealed.

A few of my guys at work have an office in the basement of a building, lots of steel, concrete and underground. the IT guys have a booster that plugs into the internet and gives a phone signal to us, only for the network that our work mobile are contracted on though, works well for us. external yagi aerial, decent coax to a sim based 4g router would work.

Fused switched spurs on immersion heaters?- not up my neck of the woods always double pole switches only.

doesn’t matter if it’s programmed to be on too long the immersion thermostat will cut the power to the immersion element when it reaches temperature regardless of the timeclock being ‘on’

https://www.varilight.co.uk/technical-section/faqs-troubleshooting.php have a look at this website, they have different types of dimmers for different applications

You need to measure the power consumption of the equipment you plan to run for 12 hours and then buy a UPS with suitable capacity. I have 3 APC UPS just for other things, more in use for surge protection and power dips not to run for any length of time

I would say the risk in a domestic situation is negligible with town ( supplied by water authority and containing chlorine) water as long as the cold water incoming is under 20deg c you should be fine. as long as dead legs of pipe work aren’t installed and left with water you will be fine. as long as the cold water storage of any is turned over regularly you will be fine. download free HSE L8 guidance for further info

in some of my basic buildings at work we fit C Tec alarm equipment, functional, compliant, easy to fit and source.

Sandpaper to the pir lens?

As Peter W says block the sensor, you used to get strips of plastic to shield the pir sensor on external units to narrow the range maybe reposition the sensor so the door has to be opened for a deliberate activation? i have switches held in place with the door and when either of 2 open the cupboard light comes on, maybe easier to use a switch?

Maybe the consumer unit is plastic, so makes sense and if I was in that situation would probably do the same Nice to see brass nuts and bolts used instead of roofing bolts!

Just leave the blue and white wires connected they aren’t doing any harm just remove the load cable the red and black into the metal box, put some connector block on them and put the lid back