TonyT

Good Luck Mate, You don’t want people to help as you aren’t willing to help measure a radiator, a room, a window , provide a few sketches yet will complain for numerous pages about being cold so I’m not investing any more time.

https://www.stelrad.com/radiators/standard-steel-radiators/ as a rough guide to off the shelf radiators.

hopefully as you bought a means of measuring temperature you can provide the data to help us help you. instead of not answering the questions that people have been posting for 20 odd pages, why dont you post the info on the radiator dimensions, types of radiator, room size, glazing size, type of construction etc, make model of ASHP etc etc.

i have a charnwood country 4 in the old dining room, which is great and a charnwood Inset stove to fit an existing marble hearth. I have a Victorian property so chimneys, hearths already there. Use both in the depths of winter, enjoy the atmosphere, and also handy as a back up fuel source- British Gas digging the street up to renew gas mains in the street and to house so no gas for 2 days, wood burners on to keep the temp in the building up.

Or the rooms aren’t heating up because the radiators aren’t balanced, system isn’t full of water, the system is full of air, the radiators are undersized for the rooms. its a process of elimination

looks complicated for outside lighting.......

Only you can decide, 14 years ago I ran in 50 plus cat 6 data points around the house while rewiring my Victorian home, wifi then became the thing and only the past 3 years since buying smart Tvs and X box's has it been worth while. Dropping in flexi conduits with draw wires makes sense to me. However I had no further disruption to decor, daily life so I'm happy it was worth it . I try to minimise grief in my home life and work life!

I think rather than looong radiator as you describe. 1200 wide by 600mm high double panel double convector May be more helpful for example a sketch showing the rads, what size rad is where etc , ASHP. Etc would also help is help you

can you remove suspended timber floor and renew the whole slab for both rooms? adding the UFH into the new Slab?

The concrete truck comes with a chute, so no cost for that.

are you paying for a pump or just coming off the chute? chute will mean truck needs to be very close. Pump- extra cash but can be a bit further away don’t know if you have access to a digger to scrape the worst of the mud off, given the weight of concrete trucks they can do most slopes as long as they are ‘slow’ Given the critical nature of the delivery ot may be worth investing in some type 1 for the drive

I would ask the installer to come back. If it’s a RHI install the installer also has ticked a box to advise they have instructed you on the operation. best to get it resolved while the install is fresh, warranty, defect period etc otherwise may end up like another saga elsewhere on this forum

I would keep the ASHP approx 1.8m away from the oil tank, keeps Oftec happy and keeps good airflow around heat pump inwoukd rather pay for longer runs and have the heat pump further from the house

My sash windows are from Bereco. fitted them 14 years ago on the original house and 2 years ago on the extension timber, prefinished decent spec fitted With metal brackets and then foam around the gap, then tescon tape over onto the timbers- tape hidden by plasterboard and internal cill

I think you need to specify the blind, and refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for cable entry etc doing this will result in a cleaner install, rather than surface clipped flex/mini trunking etc.

Standard height of sheet material would be my choice. 2.4m/8ft whatever they come in- can’t recall today

Personally I would have the spur in the cupboard and take the cable straight into the blind control box to remove the visual clutter of the spur.

I installed 3 velux windows in my roof, went for 3G for extra heat/noise insulation purposes. 2 years in and never opened them. I suppose it depends on the strategy you are planning for heating and ventilation

18mm plywood either side of the existing timber and structural screws and ‘sister’ them together. or coach bolts

normal wood saw

The lights may be ip67 but please check the rating of the transformer too, as normally they may Ip44 and located inside.

Oops. A well what about a couple of 9v batteries in series, the IC can take 37 volts max so that should work

Can I ask if you rent the property or own the property? Cause I can’t figure it out when you said you didn’t pay for the heating system? maybe some pictures of the heat pump, controller, outside install etc that may help diagnose the problem further. Cheers!

What is the unit you have? maybe an explanation of the device will help?

Kitchen Sink- would bring them through a hole in the plasterboard low enough to allow for the length going to the tap so the only joint is at the isolating valve under the sink. Toilets- use a cold forming bend on the pipe to get a bend on the pipe and then a right angle fitting to take you into the cistern