TonyT

Well the gas and electricity cable should be at a depth to avoid digging https://www.sgn.co.uk/sites/default/files/media-entities/documents/2019-11/SGN-Excavation-Guide-160216.pdf there will be similar guidance eofnethe electrical supplier in your area. if it’s not to these depths, let them know and they can lower accordingly at their own cost

You have introduced a lot of water while building/plastering , it may just need a dehumidifier running for a while to remove this extra moisture, then the normal ventilation will cope....

So they issued a certificate for their work, which was the consumer unit ( fuse board) change and a new heater circuit. at the same time it was found that the main bond to the gas wasn’t there so they installed this, they couldn’t have added a new circuit without this. you have a metal consumer unit ( I think) so that’s good, you have RCD’s so that good, if you are modernising rooms, maybe worth rewiring and upgrading old cabling and sockets as you go. I wouldn’t be worrying about the consumer unit.

Good Luck, only been to that neck of the woods once https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_Brae lovely place

Yes, will have to be mains powered. basically the first detector gets a mains cable 2 core and earth to it and then 3 core and earth runs to the next and next detector, just looping in and out. other option is radio bases which just means each detector needs a 2core and earth supply and the link between is done by radio. https://www.aico.co.uk.

I think a 20 mm plastic conduit passed through the sip and sealed on the internal and external sheathing. with the swa passing though the conduit also sealed. 1.0mm 3 core will go through the conduit. it can be glanced to the switch box/ controller to earth the armour and also use the 3rd core in the swa. Then at the light end tape up the armour and utilise the 3 core only.

You could if you want fix 2x2’ with the fixings you have and then fix the 4x2 to this. To save getting extra fixings?

Stop going on about it, you were told in November about bleeding radiators and you replied to that person, so 2 months ago!!!!!

http://www.philmac.co.uk/products/ have a squint at the website, make sure you cut the pipe square, use the pipe insert and watch out for cross threading when starting the fitting off.

Glad you are getting there, all worth it in the end!

I’m not in the office now, so unless someone has a copy to hand, I will take a photo of the text on Monday.

Where is the light switch in relation to the outside lights?

Cables should be 50mm from the surface Or protected by 30mA RCD and installed in a zone or have earthed armouring. so run a swa cable if it’s difficult.

I would cut the 4x2 down to the required height if you couldn’t live with just planting the 4x2 down straight into the existing floor. I would build the frame and then angle screws at a 45deg angle in the side of the new frame into the existing sub floor. belt and braces you could also pilot drill the 4x2 and use some decking screws through the top, down through the the 4” thick timber and into the floor. plenty of screws then into the new floor too.

If I were starting again and going down the boiler route, I would try to design a small plant room/ utility room where access to pipework is available, i would also ensure 2x100 mm ducts were installed from the gas boiler area to a potential location where an ASHP would live, it would make changing over less hassle.

Yes, you don’t. Need a stand-alone if it’s in built into the inverter.

Is there another isolator close by, as there should be one for the Cabling coming from the panels( DC voltage) and one for the Inverter (AC Voltage)

The meter that’s above the red handled isolator will be the generation meter

Nope, shouldn’t move, get a pair of grips on the end of the Allan key, and give it a turn!

I paid for all my products with credit card too, to get extra protection and points on the card! Paid the card off each month with the build money.

For my own build I broke everything down into packages and sent all the merchants with the same info, insisting on email reply. easier to compare prices and seek out the best supplier

I went timber frame internal as I could get it erected, roof on, watertight quickly then went with whinstone on the outside to match the existing house.

Jewson do it to the public I use others at work that don’t really offer this but as a repeat customer they want our business