TonyT

I have a sunny boy inverter, working away quietly now for 10 years. Aurora are also a decent make.

I claim mileage for my personal vehicle use for work, so see no problem in this.

Buy the cheapest door and frame, ironmongery and wedge the door frame in place and then some architrave to cover frame.

It’s not just the multinational house builders that require CSCS lots do, fully admit that the small builders don’t, but I would rather have a piece of paper that gives me more work options than not.

I wouldn’t be putting the outside unit in a loft.. insufficient air flow

I would go with the traditional air to air unit, with 2 copper pipes, condensate and control cable between diy Kit’s are available, or just the pipework

What about getting a few electricity meters fitted to the heat pump, immersion so you have accurate data? It’s an easy job for an electrician, meters can be purchased for £25 upwards.

Looks like it’s the external facade wrap

Christ, it’s the same price for bin stores around my area, probably the same product too?

Maybe invest in some CSCS training etc more likely to get a start if you have a ticket already and it doesn’t cost a lot

After the course fees there will be a van, tools, test equipment , and unfortunately learning on the job, it’s easy to understand how to size a pipe/cable but the skill comes in running pipe/cable and that comes from experience. fine if you are self building, as you are doing it to save money and could take ages, but you need this to earn a wage so needs to be done in a timely manner. in all for training but think plumbers mate electricians mate may be the most cost effective starting point.

I would be more inclined to see if the manufacturer did an option to provide it colour coded. any retrofit cover will kill the air flow to the heat pump and ultimately affect the CoP

Just build a floating floor on top of the existing. timber joists appropriate height to clear the pipework height, sitting on floor with plenty of fixings into existing floor and then flooring timber/ply/chipboard onto new timbers Washing machine will only move about if it’s not levelled.

So it only happens when it rains heavily? what about a french drain outside to try and remove some of the water away from the building? are down pipes ok, is it an old house, sometimes cast iron splits at the back and then soaks the wall. is the guttering complete and able to take the surface area of the roof water ? I would check existing rainwater goods first then look at external ground levels, drainage etc.

Plenty of local joiners who will build a kit on site.. Worth considering.

Don’t worry, I can take the banter.

Some pumps need primed too so watch out for that

Dig a bucket size holes here the water collects, and drop the pump into the hole, the water will find its way to the hole!

https://www.isse.org.uk/sites/default/files/2018-08/3. Rising Damp in walls - Bre.pdf here it is for free not all SE and Architects are useless, just the pair discussing injection unicorn cream into walls.

Stick to Mike’s book he’s the expert no rising damp found even in Venice!

I suppose a parge coat could be applied to the chase, but if it’s getting plastered anyway the wet plaster will seal it up. no silicone in the chase, it’s in the conduit either end of installed or just the box if it’s surface clipped. blockwork above the plasterboard - not sure what you mean

https://www.michaelparrett.co.uk/publications buy this. It will save you money in the long run

+ infinity to the above dont inject into the brickwork- architect and SE clueless..

And yes it 110mm

Cut the mesh! add it back in later.