Oz07

You want some 6f2 or something around the outside of that beam will be a bit nicer under foot. Did you have to take any drains inside or can you dig in after? Did the beam being on too of ground push up your ffl or did you dig off first?

Just watch you aren't trapping water if beaded both sides. Sure he knows what he's doing

first two about the going rate depending where you are

Very nice whats going in the bottom?

So rather than chase the matter of re routing would your efforts not be best spent just serving them notice? If they then have 12 months then so be it but the line will defy be gone or will secretary of state intervene? Your kind of starting on a back foot with the negotiating by saying your happy for it to stay but you want it underground. The (excuse the pun) middle ground for them is you can either pay for it or help to do it (trench). Surely if you change your argument to "heres your notice get the cable off my land" then they will have more incentive for you to offer you what you actually want (underground cable)? I appreciate I have no knowledge of how these matters actually work i'm just looking at it from a negociating point of view.

I had a standpipe put in for a future planned property. They weren't interested in changing anything after I completed the house. Perhaps as they knew the standpipe was going to be used for house within the near future they didn't bother restricting flow

You don't have any rights to just stop them using it then after serving notice?

Think it depends on the security part of building regs. Think all ground floor Windows have to be laminated etc etc. I'm not sure when it applies and when it doesn't. Just tell your door man to fit the standard one at your risk

Cheers Nick thanks again. Will have towel rad without trvs so will act as bypass. Plumber seems to think we will be able to push the air round like you say. Got pipes connected up to manifold today think I will swap the clips for screw on ones. Get the pipes off the board then bin the airfelt.

Cheers Nick. I can't have manifold higher as will then be through my air tightness layer. Would it be possible to periodically purge air locks in each circuit if it became an issue? Ie turn all circuits off then push it through? How often is air likely to accumulate in the pipework rather than rad and cause this issue? I was trying to eliminate most of the joins in the building by having it done this way.

I think glue down is beneficial as it's paid upto arcs and skirts rather than these laid ontop. Good luck making a nice diy cut around these I'd leave to the pros I have the floating stuff in current place but only because it's diy whereas gluedown you have to get someone in. What's the going rate for the Labour and glue got to be 20-30?

Last I heard your tile floor was floating sorry couldn't resist!

The pump is with the combi. As had been said I can force the air through by closing off all but one circuit. Pressure would be mains pressure so same as a garden hose would be. Does this mean I'd be able to push any lock through? Unfortunately can't mount the manifold higher than pipework I'd be going up through airtight layer onto unheated loft. Pita.

We've set up all the pipework for the manifold on the heating. Spoke to speed fit they say fitting manifold upside down is fine you just swap the air valve and bleed off valve to upper and lower bars, then turn them the right way round. My pipework is going all up into ceiling void then back down to rad's. Property is a bungalow with direct runs to each rad. What is the likelihood of air becoming trapped in the system? I'm fine bleeding air off from radiators and from the manifold but am I risking any air getting trapped up top or does the pressure in the system push it round? Do i need to take any precautions? Air doesn't get trapped in a garden hose when you turn it on and it goes up and down so I think i'm over worrying but I don't understand the physics or whatever is involved.

Isn't the important thing getting a certified floor system with bba cert? Doubt homemade eps would qualify

I think architects always draw like this. Mist be something about negating need for an aav.

Fitted a vertical waste with a shower tray yesterday. Was surprisingly hard to source the right bits. I though I was being clever bringing 110 up to exact centre of shower tray drain. Ended up cutting pipe approx 12mm lower than slab, fitting JT vertical waste with 90mm od body. Using a finned rubber off pan connector over waste body and lowered onto pipe greased up. I think those stack depths are for stacks. If you had a single connection on pipe it could be shallower.

you'll struggle to slice offcuts down the middle to split the thickness if I understand you. what size offcuts are you getting compared to rafter spacings?

They're probably not bad value when you take insulation into account. Blocks would be a tenner a m2, beams normally 15 20 ish? From rough memory

Top tip

The tongs just speed it up so much. If a new pack of bricks is 13 wide bang you take middle one out then pick 12 up. Stacking in 2s is so much slower.

Machine matt I got mine. No need for handle as wear gloves. Mine set to 6

@Russell griffiths not to mention the water was swirling round the wrong way

Good idea really every pound put into extra floor space is usually multiplied. Improvements less so. Sorry for your loss

i dont remember that, are you sure your on the right page? I do remember doing a water calc to get 100% discount on infrastructure charge. Need to show less than 110l per person or something. Well worth the half hour